Page 162 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

160 BACK ROADS IRELAND

5 Brú na Bóinne (see pp150–51), but there is a copy in
Donore, Co Meath Kells’ Heritage Centre (open daily, Sun
This incredible archaeological pm only). The monastery also has a
landscape, comprising Newgrange, 25-m (82-ft) high round tower
Dowth and Knowth, is a UNESCO surrounded by carved High Crosses.
World Heritage Site. As well as its Just outside the Heritage Centre is
famous prehistoric passage tombs, the Market Cross, dating from the
it has 49 burial mounds and many 9th century and used as a gallows
other examples of megalithic art. The during the 1798 uprising.
focal point is Newgrange, a passage ª Drive up through the town and
tomb and temple dating back to turn left and then right into Cannon
5000 BC. It is supported by 97 large Street for the round tower. Take the
kerbstones, including an elaborately R163 for Loughcrew (signposted
carved stone in front of the entrance. Oldcastle). After 15 km (9 miles) turn
Inside the mound, a 19-m (60-ft) right for Loughcrew Passage Tombs.
long passage leads to a cross-shaped
chamber that is penetrated by 8 Loughcrew Cairns
sunlight during the winter solstice. Loughcrew, Oldcastle, Co Meath
ª Leaving Brú na Bóinne, turn right. This group of 25 passage tombs,
Above Slane Castle, where Irish rock band U2 After 2 km (1 mile), look to the right for a spread over three hills, dates from
recorded the Unforgettable Fire album view of the outside of the Newgrange around 3000 BC. According to one
mound. At the next Y-junction, turn right legend, they were created by a witch,
VISITING BRÚ NA BÓINNE for Slane/N2, then right again for Slane. hence the Irish name Slieve na
Calliagh (Mountain of the Witch) for
Access to Newgrange and Knowth is 6 Slane the highest hill. To enter Cairn T,
by guided tour only (2 hours), from Co Meath Loughcrew’s largest passage tomb, pick
the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre The village of Slane has many up the key from the coffee shop at
(open daily; 041 988 0300; www.
newgrange.com). There is no advance attractive features including a bridge Loughcrew Gardens (open mid-Mar–
booking, so arrive early to be sure of over the River Boyne and fine 18th- Oct: daily; Nov–mid-Mar Sat & Sun; ring in
a place on a tour, especially during the century buildings. Slane Castle (open advance; 049 854 1060; www.loughcrew.
summer. There is no access to Dowth. May–Aug Sun–Thu pm) can be viewed com), 1 km (half a mile) further along
on a guided tour. Highlights include the Oldcastle road. Take a torch and
the Neo-Gothic ballroom, hallway prepare for a steep walk up to the
and bedrooms. Rock concerts are cairns from the car park. The gardens
often staged in the Capability Brown are known for their yew walk.
WHERE TO STAY grounds, where U2 recorded the ª From Loughcrew, drive back along
Unforgettable Fire album. R163 and turn right onto R154, following
SLANE Head up to the Hill of Slane, just signs for Trim through Athboy. In Trim,
Conyngham Arms Hotel moderate north of the village. It was here that park at the visitor centre near the castle.
Attractive 18th-century coaching inn St Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint, is
offering classically styled rooms, and reputed to have lit a Paschal (Easter)
also a stylish restaurant.
Main Street, Slane; 041 988 4444; fire as a challenge to the pagan
www.conynghamarms.ie High King, symbolizing Christianity’s
triumph over paganism.
AROUND LOUGHCREW CAIRNS ª From Slane, drive down the hill and
Hounslow House inexpensive turn right onto the N51. After a few
This large, relaxed farmhouse is around
16 km (10 miles) west of Kells, on the kilometres turn right onto the R163
R195 south of the cairns, and has lovely for Kells and take the next left. At the
views down to the Fore Valley. Visitors junction in Kilberry turn right, then
are greeted with tea and home baking. left to stay on the R163.
Fore, Castlepollard; 044 966 1144;
http://hounslowhouse.com; 7 Kells
open Apr–Sep only
Co Meath
AROUND HILL OF TARA A centre of Christian settlement since
Bellinter House moderate the earliest years of Christianity in
An elegant and comfortable Georgian Ireland, Kells is famous for the Book
country house in extensive grounds a
couple of kilometres (a mile) from the of Kells, an illuminated manuscript
Hill of Tara. Restaurant, pool and spa. produced by the monks of Kells
Bellinter, Navan; 046 903 0900; Monastery in around 800. The Above The round tower and one of several High
www.bellinterhouse.com original is in Trinity College, Dublin Crosses in the grounds of Kells Monastery
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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