Page 168 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

166 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Right The Grand Canal, a tranquil waterway
that crosses County Offaly

WHERE TO STAY
ATHLONE
Bastion Townhouse inexpensive
A former draper’s shop, this charming
townhouse offers simple rooms and
excellent breakfast in the
neighbouring Bastion Kitchen.
2 Bastion St; 090 649 4954;
www.thebastion.net
AROUND ATHLONE 1 Athlone flowing north–south and a glacial
Wineport Lodge moderate–expensive Co Westmeath ridge forming the main road east–
Lodge on Lough Ree with good food, Situated on a ford on the River west, it became a hub of scholarship
lake views and a rooftop hot-tub. From Shannon, Athlone Castle (open and trade, and many kings of Tara
Athlone, take the N55 to Ballykeeran Easter–Sep) was built in 1210 for King and of Connaught were buried here.
and fork left at the Dog & Duck pub.
Glasson, Athlone; 090 643 9010; John of England. An important Plundered by Vikings and Anglo-
www.wineport.ie military barracks, it twice came under Normans, it was finally devastated by
siege from Williamite troops after the the English in 1552.
BIRR Battle of the Boyne (see page 159), The ruins comprise two round
Townsend House inexpensive falling in the second siege of 1691. towers, a cathedral and seven
Guesthouse in a 19th-century
townhouse in the centre of Birr. Athlone is a departure point for churches (temples). Look for the
Townsend St; 057 912 1276; boat trips on the Shannon and carvings of saints Francis, Patrick and
www.townsendhouseguesthouse.com Lough Ree. The company Adventure Dominic above the cathedral’s north
Viking Cruise offers boat trips to doorway, known as the Whispering
AROUND BIRR Clonmacnoise aboard a Viking-style Door on account of its acoustics. The
Charlotte’s Way inexpensive
This restored 17th-century townhouse boat, accompanied by tales of Viking Visitor Centre contains early grave
on Banagher Hill in the Midlands, has battles and buried treasure. slabs and crosses, including the Cross
associations with 19th-century writer ª From Athlone, take the N6 (Dublin) of the Scriptures, a 9th-century high
Charlotte Brontë, who stayed here and road and then the N62 towards Birr. At cross carved with biblical scenes.
whose husband lived here after her Ballynahown, turn right onto the R444 ª Take the R444 to Shannonbridge
death. There are great views of the
surrounding countryside. to Clonmacnoise. and then turn left onto the R357 to
The Hill, Banagher (take R439 from Cloghan. Here, turn right onto the N62
Birr), Co Offaly; 057 915 3864; 2 Clonmacnoise for Birr. The entrance to Birr Castle
www.charlottesway.com Shannonbridge, Co Offaly Gardens is in the centre of Birr.
Founded by St Ciarán in around AD
Below The terraced gardens at Birr Castle 549, this monastic complex (open 3 Birr
Below right Clonmacnoise’s 9th-century daily) lies on an important medieval Co Offaly
round tower on the banks of the Shannon crossroads. With the Shannon This handsome estate town retains
its original Georgian layout and
architectural details. Birr Castle
(gardens open daily), seat of the
Earls of Rosse, is famous for its
landscaped grounds, containing 8 km
(5 miles) of footpaths and thousands
of rare trees and plants. Also in the
grounds are the Great Telescope, the
largest in the world when it was built
in the 1840s, and the Historic Science
Centre, devoted to engineering,
astronomy, botany and photography,
passions of the 19th-century earls.
ª From Birr, take the R440 to
Kinnitty. Drive 3 km (2 miles) beyond
Kinnitty for the entrance to Kinnitty
Forest in the Slieve Bloom Mountains.

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