Page 205 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland
P. 205

DRIVE 20: Legends and Lakes  203


       can be seen high up in the mountain-  glaciers, Glencar Lough is fed by
       side. According to mythology, this   waterfalls and streams that descend
       was the last refuge of ill-fated lovers   from the slopes behind. These are
       Diarmuid and Gráinne (see box).  even more spectacular after heavy
       ª Follow the drive back to the N15   rain. In particular, one waterfall
       and turn left onto it, through Mount   sometimes gets blown upwards by
       Temple and Grange. Turn right at a   the wind, giving the dramatic and
       signpost for Carney and follow the road   unusual appearance that it is actually
       for 3 miles (5 km) to Lissadell village.   flowing upwards.
       Follow signs for Lissadell House.  The main Glencar Waterfall
                               (50-ft/15-m high) crashes noisily
       3 Lissadell House       into a rocky pool. “There is a waterfall
       Ballinfull, Co Sligo    ... that my childhood counted dear,’’
       This early 19th-century estate was    wrote W B Yeats of Glencar (Towards
       the childhood home of Constance   the Break of Day, 1919).
       Markievicz, the first woman to be   ª Turn right as you exit the car park
       elected to the British House of   and left onto the N16. Turn right onto
       Commons and one of the leaders    the R286 and follow the signs for
       of the Easter Rising of 1916 by Irish   Parke’s Castle.
       republicans. Her friend W B Yeats
       was a visitor here. The house, which   W B Yeats (1865–1939)
       overlooks the ocean, was built in   Although born in Dublin, Nobel
       Greek Revival style. Now beautifully   Laureate poet William Butler Yeats   Above Yeats Country: the landscape that
       restored, it houses an eclectic   spent much of his youth in Co Sligo,   inspired W B Yeats’ poetry
       collection of furnishings and   forming a deep attachment to the
       paintings, while the grounds are a   county and calling it “The land of
       delight to wander round (open Mar–  heart’s desire”. He returned many
       mid-Oct: daily; www.lissadellhouse.com).   times and is buried in Drumcliffe
                                churchyard. Sligo locations found in
       ª Retrace the route to Carney. Head   his poetry include Glencar, Innisfree
       south to Orchard Grove and continue   (on Lough Gill), Dromahair (Leitrim),
       straight on. Turn right at the N15 for   Lissadell House, Coole Park and Ben
       Drumcliffe, then left onto Drum Road.  Bulben. A signposted tour of Yeats
                                Country features many of these.
       4 Drumcliffe             Details are available from the Sligo
                                Town Tourist Information office (071
       Co Sligo                 916 1201; northwestinfo@failtedireland.ie).
       In St Columba’s churchyard in
       Drumcliffe, below the rocky hulk of
       Ben Bulben, is the grave of W B Yeats,
       one of Ireland’s greatest poets (see
       box). He was laid to rest here in 1948,           EAT AND DRINK
       nearly 10 years after his death, when
       his body was moved from the South                DRUMCLIFFE
       of France. The poet had asked his wife           Yeats Tavern inexpensive
       to “dig me up and plant me in Sligo”.            This is a large lively pub with the
        The village also has a round tower,             adjoined Davis’s Restaurant offering a
       damaged by lightning in 1396, and a              variety of seafood as well as poultry
       High Cross, remnants of a monastic               and game. It is popular at weekends
                                                        for roast lunches and weather
       settlement founded in AD 574.                    permitting, you can also dine alfresco.
       ª Continue south on the N15, then,               Drumcliffe (5 minutes’ walk from the
       in Rathcormac, take the second left              churchyard, along the N15); 071 916
       and immediately left again. Turn left            3117; www.yeatstavernrestaurant.com
       at the N16, then left again for Glencar          AROUND DRUMCLIFFE
       Lough. There is a car park on the right,         Lang’s Bar and Restaurant
       and a path leads to the waterfall.               inexpensive
                                                        As well as offering beautiful views of
       5 Glencar Lough and                              Ben Bulben, this traditional bar and
       Waterfall                                        restaurant incorporates a grocery
                                                        shop. It is located a mere 10-minute
       Glencar, Co Leitrim                              walk from Streedagh Beach.
       Surrounded by great, sweeping   Above Glencar Waterfall, one of several waterfalls   Grange; 071 916 3105; www.langs.ie;
       mountains carved out by ancient   tumbling into Glencar Lough  restaurant closed Tue
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


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