Page 38 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

36 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Above The Old Distillery at Midleton Above
right Huge copper pot still at the Jameson 3 Cobh Ballymaloe Cookery School
Experience, Midleton Co Cork Ballymaloe attracts would-be
Cobh, once known as Queenstown, chefs and keen cooks from far and
on Great Island is a pretty town with wide. It was founded by Darina
bright Victorian terraces overlooking Allen in 1983, and the renowned
VISITING COBH Cork Harbour, one of the world’s chef remains at its helm today.
Courses on offer range from short
deepest natural harbours. demonstrations to half a day or a
Parking Cobh was the last port for the ill- full 12-week Certificate Course for
Parking along the waterfront is free for fated Titanic, and the Queenstown budding professionals. The school
the first hour, but then requires a disk (and restaurant) kitchen is supplied
available from local shops. There are Story at the Cobh Heritage Centre with herbs, fruits and vegetables
two free car parks: one on the (www.cobhheritage.com; open daily) tells from the 200-year-old gardens
waterfront; one above the cathedral. the history of the liner as well as that of (021 464 6785; www.cookingisfun.ie).
Tourist Information Irish emigration to America – two and
Market House, Casement Square; 021 a half million people left from Cobh
481 3301; www.visitcobh.com alone after the Famine. The Titanic Trail
(www.titanic.ie; departs Commodore Hotel
daily at 11am & 2pm), a guided walking
WHERE TO STAY tour, takes in sights such as the Titanic
Memorial, the White Star Line office
AROUND MIDLETON and Cobh Museum (Mar–Oct: open daily).
Barnabrow Country House moderate ª Retrace route on R624 north to N25
This is a relaxed manor house set in its junction. Here, take second exit signed
own grounds; on a clear day there are N25 to Rosslare. Continue on N25, then
views all the way to Ballycotton Island. turn left onto R627 signed to Midleton.
The walled garden supplies the kitchen.
Cloyne, Midleton (take R629 from
Midleton, then left on R631); 021 465 4 Midleton
2534; www.barnabrowhouse.ie Co Cork
Midleton is a busy commercial town,
AROUND SHANAGARRY and a major centre of production for
Garryvoe Hotel moderate Irish whiskey. Find out how “the water
This comfortable and completely
wheelchair accessible hotel has views of life” is distilled at the Jameson Above Gateway to Ballymaloe House
over the stunning beach at Garryvoe Experience in The Old Distillery
as well as Ballycotton Bay. (www.jamesonwhiskey.com; open daily). 5 Shanagarry
Ballycotton Bay, Castlemartyr (on drive There are guided tours, ending with a Co Cork
route taking R632 from Midleton to sample glass or tutored tasting (book Shanagarry was the birthplace of
Shanagarry); 021 464 6718; www.
garryvoehotel.com in advance). En route to Shanagarry William Penn, the founding father of
are the magnificent golden sands of Pennsylvania. Sadly, his ancestral
BALLYCOTTON Garryvoe beach. home, Shanagarry Castle, is closed
Bayview Hotel moderate ª From Midleton, return to the N25 to the public these days.
This is a comfortable and relaxing and follow the road to Castlemartyr. Today Shanagarry is probably
hotel in the quiet fishing village of
Ballycotton, with views over the Bay. Turn right at the bridge onto the R632 most famous of all as the location
021 464 6746; www.thebayviewhotel. for Ladysbridge. Go through Garryvoe of Ballymaloe House and its
com; closed Oct–Easter and follow the road to Shanagarry. celebrated cookery school (from
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

034-037_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 36 13/10/17 1:06 pm