Page 119 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - New York City
P. 119

EAST  VILLA GE      117

       5 St. Mark’s Church-  the crowds turned the event   A small statue of a boy and a
       in-the-Bowery       into complete chaos.  girl looking at a steamboat
                             The marble spire replaced a   commemorates the deaths of
       131 E 10th St. Map 4 F1. Tel (212) 674-  wooden steeple in 1888 amid   over 1,000 local residents in
       6377. q Astor Pl. Open 10am–4pm   fears that it might prove too   the General Slocum steamer
       Mon–Fri (hours may vary). 5 6:30pm   heavy for the church – and it   disaster. On June 15, 1904,
       Wed, 11am Sun; in Spanish 5:30pm   has since developed a distinct   the boat caught fire during a
       Sat. ∑ stmarksbowery.org
                           lean. The church is visible from   pleasure cruise on the East
       One of New York’s oldest   afar because it is on a bend on   River. The boat was crowded
       churches, this 1799 building   Broadway – Henry Brevoort   with women and children
       replaced a 1660 church on    forced the bend to divert it   from this then-German
       the bouwerie (farm) of Governor   around his apple orchard.  neighborhood. Many local men
       Peter Stuyvesant. He is buried          lost their entire families and
       here, along with seven gener-           moved away, leaving the area
       ations of his descendants and           and its memories behind.
       many other prominent early
       New Yorkers. Poet W. H. Auden           8 Bayard-Condict
       was a parishioner and is also
       commemorated here.                      Building
         In 1878, a grisly kidnapping          65 Bleecker St. Map 4 F3.
       took place when the remains             q Bleecker St.
       of department store magnate
       A. T. Stewart were removed              The graceful columns, elegant
       from the site and held for              filigreed terracotta facade, and
       $20,000 ransom.                         magnificent cornice on this
         The church rectory at 232             1898 building mark the only
       East 11th Street dates from             New York work by Louis Sullivan,
       1900 and is by Ernest Flagg,            the great Chicago architect who
       who achieved renown for his             taught Frank Lloyd Wright. He
       Singer Building (see p100).             died in poverty and obscurity
                                               in Chicago in 1924.
                                                 Sullivan is said to have
       6 Grace Church                          objected vigorously to the
                           Grace Church altar and window  sentimental angels supporting
       802 Broadway. Map 4 F1. Tel (212)       the Bayard-Condict Building’s
       254-2000. q Astor Pl, Union Sq.
        @ M1–3, M8, M101–3. 5 Jul & Aug:   7 Tompkins Square   cornice, but he eventually gave
       10am, 6pm Sun; Sep–Jun: 9am,            in to the wishes of Silas Alden
       11am, 6pm Sun. ^ 7 Concerts.   Map 5 B1. q 2nd Ave, 1st Ave.   Condict, the owner.
       ∑ gracechurchnyc.org  @ M8, M9, M14A.     Because this building is
                                               squeezed into a commercial
       James Renwick, Jr., the   This English-style park has the   block, it is better appreciated
       architect of St. Patrick’s   makings of a peaceful spot,   from a distance. Cross the street
       Cathedral, was only 23   but its past has more often   and walk a little way down
       when he designed this   been dominated by strife.    Crosby Street for the best view.
       church, yet many consider    It was the site of America’s
       it his finest achievement.    first organized labor
       Its delicate early Gothic   demonstration in 1874,
       lines have a grace         the main gathering
       befitting the               place during the
       church’s name. The         neighbor hood’s
       interior is just as        hippie era of the
       beautiful, with Pre-       1960s, and, in 1988,
       Raphaelite stained         an arena for violent
       glass and a hand-          riots when the
       some mosaic floor.         police tried to evict
         The church’s             homeless people
       peace and serenity         who had taken
       were briefly               over the grounds.
       shattered in 1863,          The square
       when Phineas T.            also contains
       Barnum staged               a poignant
       the wedding of              monument to
       dwarf General    Temperance Fountain at   the neighborhood’s
       Tom Thumb here;   Tompkins Square  greatest tragedy.    The Bayard-Condict Building




   116-117_EW_New_York_City.indd   117                        4/3/17   11:11 AM
   114   115   116   117   118   119   120   121   122   123   124