Page 137 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - New York City
P. 137

CHELSEA  AND   THE  GARMENT  DISTRIC T      135


                           Row, running from 406–418
                           West 20th Street, and built from
                           1839–40 for Don Alonzo
                           Cushman, a merchant who
                           also founded the Greenwich
                           Savings Bank. Cushman joined
                           Moore and James N. Wells in
                           the development of Chelsea.
       A 15th-century music manuscript in the   Rich in detail and intricate
       General Theological Seminary  ironwork, Cushman Row is
                           ranked with Washington Square
       Oriental Languages at what    North as a supreme example of   Enjoying a snack in the inviting
       is today Columbia University   Greek Revival architecture.    Chelsea Market
       (see p218), donated the site,   Look for cast-iron wreaths
       officially known as Chelsea   around attic windows and the   freshest, highest-quality
       Square. The earliest remaining   pineapples on the newel posts   snacks and meals. Chelsea
       building dates from 1836; the   of two of the houses – old   Market also houses the TV
       most modern, St. Mark’s Library,   symbols of hospitality.  production facilities for the
       was built in 1960 and holds the     Farther along West 20th   Food Network.
       largest collection of Latin Bibles   Street, from 446–450, there
       in the world.       are fine examples of the   t Hugh O’Neill
         Inside, the garden is laid    Italianate style for which
       out in two quadrangles, like    Chelsea is also renowned. The   Dry Goods Store
       an English cathedral close; it is   detailed brickwork arches of   655–671 6th Ave. Map 8 E4.
       especially lovely in the spring.  windows and fanlights subtly   q 23rd St.
                           implied the wealth of the
                           owner, being able to afford this   Though the store is long gone,
                           expensive effect.   the 1890 cast-iron columned
                                               and pilastered facade clearly
                                               shows the scale and grandeur
                           r Chelsea Market    of the emporiums that once
                                               lined Sixth Avenue from 18th
                           75 9th Ave (between 15th and 16th
                           sts). Map 7 C5. q 14th St.    to 23rd streets – the area
                           Open 7am–9pm Mon–Sat, 8am–8pm   known as Fashion Row. O’Neill,
                           Sun. ∑ chelseamarket.com  whose sign can still be seen on
                                               the facade, was a showman
                           This enclosed food court and   and super-salesman whose
                           shopping mall is one of New   trade mark was a fleet of shiny
                           York’s unmissable destinations   delivery wagons. His customers
                           for foodies. Visitors can pick up   came in droves via the
                           a range of gourmet ingredients,  conveniently close Sixth
                           exotic foodstuffs, and charming   Avenue Elevated Railway. They
                           gifts here. The retail options   were not the “carriage trade”
       Exterior of a red-brick house on    include Lucy’s Whey, for   enjoyed by Ladies’ Mile (see
       Cushman Row         artisanal US cheeses; Chelsea   p123), but their numbers
                           Wine Vault, for a global   allowed the Row to flourish
       e Chelsea Historic   selection of wines; and Bowery   until around 1915, when the
       District            Kitchen Supply, for professional-  retailing district continued its
                           quality equipment. Several   move uptown. Now mostly
       W 20th St from 9th to 10th Aves.    high-end purveyors    restored, the buildings have
       Map 8 D5. q 18th St. @ M11.  maintain bakeries and   turned into stores and high-
                           kitchens, ensuring         end condos.
       Although he is better known as   only the
       the author of the poem “A Visit
       from St. Nicholas” than as an
       urban planner, Clement Clarke
       Moore owned an estate here
       and divided it into lots in the
       1830s, creating handsome rows
       of town houses. Restoration has
       since rescued many of the
       original buildings here.
         Of these, the finest are seven
       houses known as Cushman   Hugh O’Neill Dry Goods Store




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