Page 214 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

DRIVING THE GORGES DU VERDON

This spine-tingling drive is one of France’s classic road trips. A complete circuit of
the Gorges from Moustiers-Ste-Marie involves 140km (about four hours without
stops) of relentless hairpin turns on precarious rim-side roads, with spectacular
scenery around every bend. The only village en route is La Palud-sur-Verdon
(930m). Expect slow traffic and scant opportunities to overtake in summer.
From Moustiers, aim first for the Route des Crêtes (D952 & D23; hclosed 15
Nov-15 Mar), a 23km-long loop with 14 lookouts along the northern rim – ensure you
drive the loop clockwise: there’s a one-way portion midway. En route, the most
thrilling view is from Belvédère de l’Escale, an excellent place to spot vultures.
After rejoining the D952, the road corkscrews eastward, past Point Sublime, which
overlooks serrated rock formations dropping to the river.
Return towards Moustiers via the Corniche Sublime (D955 to D90, D71 and
D19), a heart-palpitating route along the southern rim, passing landmarks including
the Balcons de la Mescla (Mescla Terraces) and Pont de l’Artuby, Europe’s
highest bridge.

his safe return from the trails traverse untamed
Crusades. Below the 8 Gorges du Verdon countryside between
star, the 14th-century Dubbed the Grand Castellane and Moust-
Chapelle Notre Dame Canyon of Europe, iers, including the classic
de Beauvoir (guided tours the breathtaking Sentier Martel, which
adult/child €3/free) clings Gorges du Verdon slice uses occasional ladders
to the cliff ledge like an 25km through Haute- and tunnels to navigate
eagle’s nest. A steep trail Provence’s limestone pla- 14km of riverbanks and
climbs beside a waterfall teau. The narrow canyon ledges. For details on 28
ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 18 FOOTHILLS OF THE ALPS
to the chapel, passing 14 bottom, carved by the walks, pick up the excel-
stations of the cross. On Verdon’s emerald-green lent English-language
8 September, a 5am Mass waters, is only 8m to 90m Canyon du Verdon
celebrates the Virgin wide; its steep, multi- (€4.70) at Moustiers’
Mary’s nativity, followed hued walls, home to grif- tourist office (%04 92
by flutes, drums and fon vultures, rise as high 74 67 84; www.moustiers.
breakfast on the square. eu; h9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri,
as 700m – twice as tall
54 p213 as the Eiffel Tower! One 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-7pm Sat
of France’s most scenic & Sun Jul & Aug, 10am-noon &
The Drive » The trip drives takes in stagger- 2-6pm April-June & Sep, closes
to Gorges du Verdon is a ing panoramas from the around 5pm rest of year; W).
classic. Follow the D952 19km Rafting operators include
southeast to La Palud-sur- vertigo-inducing cliff-side Guides pour l’Aventure
Verdon, then the D23, winding roads on either side.
from 9km above the western The canyon floors are (www.guidesaventure.com)
flank of the Verdon to your final accessible only by foot and Aboard Rafting (www.
destination. or raft. Dozens of blazed rafting-verdon.com).

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