Page 230 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

BOUCHONS
A bouchon might be a ‘bottle stopper’ or ‘traffic jam’ elsewhere in France, but
in Lyon it’s a cosy, traditional bistro specialising in regional cuisine. Bouchons
originated in the first half of the 20th century when many bourgeois families had to
let go their in-house cooks, who then set up their own restaurants.
Kick-start your meal with a communard, an aperitif of red Beaujolais wine and
crème de cassis (blackcurrant liqueur), then move on to a pot – a 46cL glass bottle
adorned with an elastic band to prevent wine drips – of local Brouilly, Beaujolais,
Côtes du Rhône or Mâcon.
Next comes the entrée, perhaps tablier de sapeur (breaded, fried tripe), salade
lyonnaise (green salad with bacon, croutons and poached egg), or lentils in creamy
sauce. Hearty main dishes include boudin noir aux pommes (blood sausage with
apples), quenelles de brochet (pike dumplings served in a creamy crayfish sauce)
and andouillette (sausage made from pigs’ intestines).
For the cheese course, choose between a bowl of fromage blanc (a cross
between cream cheese and natural yoghurt); cervelle de canut (‘brains of the silk
weaver’; fromage blanc mixed with chives and garlic, a staple of Lyon’s 19th-century
weavers); or local St Marcellin ripened to gooey perfection.
Desserts are grandma-style: think tarte aux pommes (apple tart), or the
Lyonnais classic tarte aux pralines, a brilliant rose-coloured confection made with
crème fraiche and crushed sugar-coated almonds.
Little etiquette is required in bouchons. Mopping your plate with a chunk of bread
is fine, and you’ll usually sit elbow-to-elbow with your fellow diners at tightly wedged
tables (great for practising your French).
ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 20 RHôNE VALLEY

The Drive » From Vallon- dramatic backdrop for the
Pont-d’Arc, the breathtaking pretty village below. Built TRIP HIGHLIGHT
D290 zigzags for 29km along by the medieval Counts 8 Orange
the canyon’s rim, with 11 of Toulouse, it commands
viewpoints revealing dazzling outstanding views west Sun-drenched Orange is a
vistas of horseshoe bends, and to the Rhône and east dream for fans of ancient
kayakers in formation far below. to Mont Ventoux. A trail ruins. Outstanding Théâ-
Exiting the gorges, take the climbs 137 vertical metres tre Antique (www.theatre-
D200 for 2km south through antique.com; rue Madeleine
pretty medieval Aiguèze, then from the village past the Roch; adult/child €9.50/7.50;
continue 22km southeast across 12th-century Roman- h9am-7pm Jun-Aug, shorter
the Rhône into Mornas via the esque Église Notre-Dame hours rest of year), one of only
D901, D6086, D994 and N7. du Val-Romigier to the three Roman theatres in
fortress, where costumed the world with a perfectly
guides offer historical preserved stage wall,
7 Mornas re-enactments. Medieval shines during summer
Perched on some pre- fever also grips Mornas performances such as epic
cipitous cliffs, the 11th- to in September during La international opera festi-
14th-century Forteresse Médiévale de Mornas, a val Chorégies d’Orange
de Mornas (%04 90 37 01 popular annual festival (www.choregies.asso.fr; hJul &
26; www.forteresse-de-mornas. and crafts market. Aug). North of town is the
com; tours adult/child €9/7; The Drive » Zip 12km exquisite 1st-century-AD
htours 11am, 2pm, 3pm, southeast down the N7 Arc de Triomphe.
4pm, 5pm daily Jul & Aug, Sat & into Orange, greeted by the
Sun Apr-Jun & Sep) makes a magnificent Arc de Triomphe. 4 p245

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