Page 304 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

DETOUR:
AIGUES-MORTES
Start: 3 Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Located over the border from Provence in the Gard, Aigues-Mortes sits a winding
28km northwest of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer at the Camargue’s far western extremity.
Its central axis of streets often throngs with tourists, and shops spill out Camargue-
themed tack, but the town is none the less magnificent, set in flat marshland
and completely enclosed by rectangular ramparts and a series of towers. Come
sundown, things change pace, and its squares are a lovely place to join locals for a
relaxed apéro (pre-dinner drink). Established by Louis IX in the mid-13th century to
give the French crown a Mediterranean port, it was from here that the king launched
the seventh Crusade (and persecuted Cathars). The Tour de Constance (www.
tourdeconstance.com; adult/child €7.50/free; h10am-7pm May-Aug, 10am-5.30pm Sep-Apr)
once held Huguenot prisoners; today it’s the start of the 1.6km wall-top circuit, a
must-do for heady views of salt mountains and viridian plains. Park on bd Diderot,
on the outside of the northwestern wall.

hotel Le Mas de Peint, horse and Camargue which still hosts bloody
hosts Camargue farm-life cross tattoos. bullfights as well as less
demonstration days, grisly courses Camar-
Journées Camarguaises 5 p303 guaises. Rather than
(%04 90 97 28 50; www. The Drive » Continue north poking the bull to death,
manade-jacques-bon.com; on the D36, where you’ll re-meet these traditional specta-
adult/child incl lunch €38/19; the D570 heading to Arles, a cles are a test of bravery,
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 27 THE CAMARGuE
hmonthly in summer), with 25km stretch in all. in which amateur raze-
music, gardians (cow- teurs wearing skin-tight
boys) doing their thing white shirts and trousers
and taureau au feu de a Arles snatch rosettes and rib-
bois (bull on the barbie). Back in Arles, last stop bons tied to the horns of
But if it’s boots-‘n’-all is Les Arènes (Amphithéâ- the taureau with a sharp
gardian style you’re tre; %08 91 70 03 70; www. comb. Victory is never as
after, pull up a stool at arenes-arles.com; Rond-Point certain as the fact that, at
the roadside Café du des Arènes; adult/child €6/ some point, the bull will
Sambuc (rte de Sambuc): free, incl Théâtre Antique €9/ charge, the razeteurs will
bull couscous and a jug free; h9am-8pm Jul & Aug, leap the arena’s barrier
of rosé for loose change, to 7pm May-Jun & Sep, shorter and the crowd will cheer.
and staff adorned with hours rest of year), the town’s
fabulous amphitheatre, 54 p303, p409

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