Page 344 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

ROAD PASSES IN THE PYRENEES

The high passes between the Vallée d’Ossau, the Vallée d’Aspe and the Vallée de
Gaves are often closed during winter. Signs are posted along the approach roads
indicating whether they’re ouvert (open) or fermé (closed). The dates given below
are approximate, and depend on seasonal snowfall.
Col d’Aubisque (1709m, open May-Oct) The D918 links Laruns in the Vallée
d’Ossau with Argèles-Gazost in the Vallée de Gaves. An alternative that’s open year-
round is the D35 between Louvie-Juzon and Nay.
Col de Marie-Blanque (1035m, open most of year) The shortest link between the
Aspe and Ossau valleys is the D294, which corkscrews for 21km between Escot and
Bielle.
Col du Pourtalet (1795m, open most of year) The main crossing into Spain
generally stays open year-round except during exceptional snowfall.
Col du Tourmalet (2115m, open Jun-Oct) Between Barèges and La Mongie, this is
the highest road pass in the Pyrenees. If you’re travelling east to the Pic du Midi (for
example from Cauterets), the only alternative is a long detour north via Lourdes and
Bagnères-de-Bigorre.

trades such as glass blow- provides a handy primer
8 Foix ing, tanning, thatching on the area’s ancient past.
Foix is a quiet mountain and nail making, and even It’s a mix of multimedia
town, but it’s an excellent has its own blacksmith, exhibits and hands-on
baker and cobbler.
base for exploring the outdoor displays, explor-
eastern Pyrenees. Loom- 54 p325, p343 ing everything from pre-
PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 31 THE PYRENEES
ing above town is the historic carving to the art
triple-towered Château de The Drive » Spend the night in of animal-skin tents and
Foix (%05 61 05 10 10; adult/ Foix, then head for Tarascon-sur- ancient spear-throwing.
Ariège, 17km south of Foix on the
About 6.5km further
child €5.60/3.80; h10am- N20. Look out for brown signs to south, the Grotte de Niaux
6pm summer, shorter hours the Parc de la Préhistoire.
rest of year), constructed (www.sites-touristiques-ariege.
in the 10th century as a fr; adult/child €12/8) is home
stronghold for the counts TRIP HIGHLIGHT to the Pyrenees’ most pre-
of Foix. The interior is 9 Tarascon-sur- cious cave paintings. The
rather bare, but there’s a Ariège centrepiece is the Salon
small museum, and the Noir, reached after an
view from the battlements Thousands of years ago, 800m walk through the
is glorious. There’s usually the Pyrenees were home darkness and decorated
at least one daily tour in to thriving communities with bison, horses and
English in summer. of hunter-gatherers, who ibex. To help preserve the
Afterwards, head 4.5km used the area’s caves as delicate paintings, there’s
south to Les Forges de shelters and left behind no artificial light inside;
Pyrène (%05 34 09 30 60; many stunning examples you’re given a torch as you
adult/child €9/6; h10am- of prehistoric art. enter. The cave can only
6.30pm), a fascinating Near Tarascon-sur- be visited with a guide.
‘living museum’ exploring Ariège, the Parc de la From April to September
Ariège folk traditions. Préhistoire (%05 61 05 there’s usually a daily
Spread over 5 hectares, 10 10; adult/child €11/8.30; tour in English at 1.30pm.
it illustrates traditional h10am-7pm, closed Nov-Mar) Bookings advised.

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