Page 368 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

Eating & Sleeping

collection of vintage curiosities, inspires love
Bordeaux 1 at first sight at this thoroughly contemporary,
design-driven B&B in the trendy former wine-
5 Magasin Général International € merchant quarter of Chartrons. Across the road
(%05 56 77 88 35; www.magasingeneral.camp/; from, and run by, the bistro of the same name,
87 quai des Queyries; 2-/3-course menu €14/18, Chez Dupont is one of the best deals in town.
mains €9-19; h8.30am-6pm Wed-Fri, 8.30am- 4 L’Hôtel
midnight Sat, 10am-midnight Sun, kitchen Particulier Boutique Hotel €€€
noon-2.15pm & 7-10pm; W) Follow the hip crowd
across the river to this huge industrial hangar (%05 57 88 28 80; www.lhotel-particulier.com;
on the right bank, France’s biggest and best 44 rue Vital-Carles; d €189-299; W) Step into
organic restaurant with gargantuan terrace this fabulous boutique hotel and be wowed by
complete with vintage sofa seating, ping-pong period furnishings mixed with contemporary
table and table football. Everything here, from design, extravagant decorative touches and
the vegan burgers and super-food salads to an atmospheric courtyard garden. Its five
smoothies, pizzas, wine and French bistro fare, individually designed hotel rooms (breakfast
is bio (organic) and sourced locally. Sunday €12) match up to expectations with vintage
brunch (€24) is a bottomless feast. fireplaces, carved ceilings and bathtubs with
legs. Exceptional value are the suite of equally
5 Le Petit Commerce Seafood €€ well-furnished self-catering apartments, sleeping
(05 56 79 76 58; 22 rue Parlement St-Pierre; one (€89), two (€109) or four people (€179).
2-course lunch menu €14, mains €15-25;
hnoon-midnight) This iconic bistro, with dining
ATLANTIC COAST 33 HERITAGE WINE COuNTRY
rooms both sides of a narrow pedestrian street St-Émilion 6
and former Michelin-starred chef Stéphane
Carrade in the kitchen, is the star turn of the 5 L’Envers du Decors French €€
trendy St-Pierre quarter. It’s best known for (%06 57 74 48 31; www.envers-dudecor.com;
its excellent seafood menu that embraces 11 rue du Clocher; mains €17.50-35; hnoon-
everything from Arcachon sole and oysters to 2.30pm & 7-10.30pm) A few doors down from
eels, lobsters and chipirons (baby squid) fresh the tourist office, this wine bar is one of the
from St-Jean de Luz. best places to eat – and inevitably drink – in
this tasteful wine town. The kitchen cooks
5 La Tupina Regional Cuisine €€€ up fabulous local classics like lamproie à la
(%05 56 91 56 37; www.latupina.com; 6 rue Bordelaise (a local eel-like fish simmered in red
Porte de la Monnaie; lunch menu €18, dinner wine), duck liver pan-fried in Sauternes and
menus €39 & €74; hnoon-2pm & 7-11pm Tue- oysters by the dozen.
Sun) Filled with the aroma of soup simmering
inside a tupina (‘kettle’ in Basque) over an open 5 La Table de
fire, this iconic bistro is feted for its seasonal Plaisance Gastronomy €€€
southwestern French fare: think foie gras and (Hostellerie de Plaisance; %05 57 55 07
egg cassoullette (mini casserole), milk-fed lamb, 55; www.hostelleriedeplaisance.com; place
tripe and goose wings. Hopefully nothing will du Clocher; menus €78-134, mains €49-57;
change following the 2016 retirement of the hnoon-1.30pm Sat, 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat) Wine
gregarious Jean-Pierre Xiradakis, life and soul pairings are naturally in a league of their own
of La Tupina since 1968. at this exquisite Michelin-starred restaurant,
in the heart of the village in luxurious, five-star
4 Chez Dupont B&B €€ Hostellerie de Plaisance. Tasting menus include
(%05 56 81 49 59; www.chez-dupont.com; 45 rue a mystery eight-course extravaganza served to
Notre Dame; s/d from €85/100) Five impeccably the whole table or more modest three- and five-
decorated rooms, peppered with a wonderful course feasts. Advance reservations essential.

366