Page 376 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

The Drive » South of
TRUFFLE SECRETS Bergerac, you’ll really start to
get out into wine country, with
Few ingredients command the same culinary cachet vineyards and châteaux lining
as the truffe noire (black truffle), variously known as the roadsides. Monbazillac is
the diamant noir (black diamond) or, hereabouts, the 8km south of Bergerac on the
D13. Take the D936E around the
perle noire du Périgord (black pearl of the Périgord). southern edge of Bergerac, and
The gem references aren’t just for show, either: a look out for the left turn onto
high-end truffle crop can fetch as much as €1000 the D13.
per kg at seasonal markets.
A subterranean fungus that grows naturally in
chalky soils (especially around the roots of oak trees), 9 Monbazillac
this mysterious mushroom is notoriously capricious; Driving round among
a good truffle spot one year can be bare the next, the rows of vines south
which has made farming them practically impossible. of Bergerac is a pleasure
The art of truffle-hunting is a closely guarded secret; in itself, especially if
it’s a matter of luck, judgement and experience, with you indulge in a bit of
specially trained dogs (and occasionally pigs) to help dégustation. Château de
in the search. Monbazillac (%05 53 63 65
The height of truffle season is between December 00; www.chateau-monbazillac.
and March, when special truffle markets are held com; château adult/child
around the Dordogne, including in Périgueux and Sarlat.
€7.50/3.75; h10am-noon &
2-5pm Jun-Sep, shorter hours
rest of year, closed Dec & Jan)
ATLANTIC COAST 34 GOuRMET DORDOGNE
fragrant whites and fruity The Drive » Creysse is 8km
rosés – but with 13 AOCs east of Bergerac along the D660. is often crowded because
(Appéllations d’Origines of its grand 16th-century
Contrôlées), and more château (best seen from
than 1200 wine-growers, 8 Creysse outside). This vineyard
the choice is bewildering. Many Bergerac vineyards specialises in sweet white
Thankfully, the town’s are open to the public, Monbazillac AOC, as
Maison des Vins (%05 53 including the prestigious does nearby family-run
63 57 55; www.vins-bergerac.fr; Château de Tiregand Château Montdoyen
Cloître des Récollets; h10am- (%05 53 23 21 08; www. (%05 53 58 85 85; www.
12.30pm & 2-7pm Tue-Sat, daily chateau-de-tiregand.com; tours chateau-montdoyen.com;
Jul & Aug, closed Jan) knows adult/child €3/2; h10am- Le Puch; h9.30am-1pm &
all the best vintages, of- 6.30pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours 2-7pm). Montdoyen also
fers wine-tasting courses rest of year), which is main- makes excellent Bergerac
and organises vineyard ly known for its Péchar- AOC reds, whites with
visits. You could spend mant wines; it runs tours intriguing names like
at least another couple and tasting sessions in its Divine Miséricorde
of days touring the cellars. English tours run (sauvignon blanc and
local vineyards, using at 2.30pm from June to sauvignon gris), and a
Bergerac as a base. August. delicious rosé.
54 p375

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