Page 400 - Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

DETOUR:
CHÂTEAU DE BIRON
Start: 7 Bonaguil
If you enjoyed the castle architecture of Bonaguil, you might like to cut across
country to the nearby Château de Biron (%05 53 63 13 39; www.semitour.com; D53;
adult/child €8.20/5.30, joint ticket with Cadouin €11.90/7; h10am-7pm daily Jul & Aug, 10am-1pm
& 2-6pm Apr-Jun & Sep-Oct, Tue-Sun Nov-May, closed Jan), a glorious mishmash of styles,
having been fiddled with by eight centuries of successive heirs. It’s particularly
notable for its slate turrets, state rooms and double loggia staircase, supposedly
modelled on one at Versailles; the oldest part of the castle is the 12th-century keep.
It’s had mixed fortunes over the centuries, and was finally sold in the early 1900s
to pay for the extravagant lifestyle of a particularly irresponsible heir. It’s since
featured in countless films, including Luc Besson’s Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc; 1999)
and Bernard Tavernier’s La Fille d’Artagnan (D’Artagnan’s Daughter; 1994).

The Drive » To get to the military architecture, but has long since been
Château de Bonaguil, continue with towers, bastions, swallowed up by more
west along the D811 for 14km loopholes, machi colations modern architecture. The
ATLANTIC COAST 37 THE LOT VALLEY
towards Fumel. About 1km east and crenel lations built di- centre of the old town is
of town, there’s a right turn onto rectly into the limestone guarded by two medieval
the D673, signed to Gourdon/ cliffs. Guided tours in gateways, the Porte de
Bonaguil. Follow signs for
another 8km, making sure not to English run several times Paris and the Porte de
miss the left turn onto the D158. daily in July and August. Pujols (the other six are
no longer standing); in
The Drive » Loop back onto
the D673, making a short detour between runs the main
TRIP HIGHLIGHT thoroughfare of rue de
via the pretty little village of
7 Bonaguil St-Martin-le-Redon if you wish. Paris and the arcaded
There’s one unmistake- Follow signs through Fumel bastide-style square of
able reason to stop in the onto the D911 all the way to place Lafayette, surround-
village of Bonaguil, and Villeneuve-sur-Lot. ed by shops and cafes.
that’s to wander round its Along the river, look out
imposing feudal château 8 Villeneuve-sur- for the Pont Vieux, a
(%05 53 71 90 33; www. 13th-century bridge that
chateau-bonaguil.com; adult/ Lot was supposedly modelled
child €8/4; h10am-7pm Jul Last stop on the trip on the Pont Valentré
& Aug, 10am-5.30pm Apr-Jun, is the river town of in Cahors, although its
Sep & Oct), a fine exam- Villeneuve-sur-Lot, which defensive towers have
ple of late-15th-century began life as a bastide disappeared.

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