Page 275 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Japan
P. 275

A sightseeing cruise on
                                               one of the canals in the
                                               town of Yanagawa
                                               Mount Unzen, thought to
                                               be dormant until one of its
                                               peaks erupted in 1990, can be
                                               climbed or partly ascended by
                                               ropeway from the Nita Pass.

                                               r
                                               Yoshinogari Ruins
                                               吉野ケ里遺跡
       w                   e                   ! A6   ⌂ Saga Prefecture
       Yanagawa            Shimabara Peninsula  £ Yoshinogari-koen or
                                               Kanzaki Stns, then 15-
       柳川                  島原半島
                                               min walk or take taxi
       ! A6   ⌂ Fukuoka    ! A6   ⌂ Nagasaki   # 9am–5pm daily
       Prefecture   £      Prefecture   £ Shimabara   ∑ yoshinogari.jp/en
       n Okinohatamachi;    city   g From Kumamoto     Pit dwellings and hundreds
       (0944) 74-0891      n Unzen Spa (0957) 73-  of burial urns excavated at
                           3434; Shimabara Peninsula
       The Stone Quays of Yanagawa   Tourism Association (0957)   Yoshinogari point to the
       are not as busy as they used   62-0656  existence of a sophisticated
       to be, but the canals and old           Yayoi-period society (300 BC–
       moats that run through this   Ruled by the Christian Lord   AD 300) in the region. Smart
       former castle town are still   Arima until 1616, Shimabara   irrigation systems and rice
       vital to its economy, and eel   Penin sula is known as the site   cultivation were begun in this
       remains the local delicacy.   of anti-Christian pogroms   period, laying the pattern for
       Visitors can board donkobune   ordered by the Tokugawa   later Japanese society. The
       (gondolas) for a kawakudari   shogunate. How ever, in the   area is believed by some to be
       (river cruise). As you float   1880s, Unzen Spa became a   the home of Queen Himiko,
       along the restored canals,   resort for West erners. At an   mentioned in 3rd-century
       you’ll glide past old samurai   altitude of 2,300 ft (700 m)   Chinese annals. Watchtowers
       villas and storehouses. The   and surrounded by pine   and Yayoi-period homes
       canals are at their best during   forests, the spa was an ideal   have been reconstructed here.
       sakura season in spring.  retreat from the summer heat.
         Other Yanagawa sights   Thou sands of azaleas bloom
       include Suiten-gu, a pretty   on the peninsula in spring,
       shrine used by the same sect   and in autumn the maple
       as the shrine in Kurume;     leaves turn brilliant shades     DRINK
       Kyu Toshimake Jyutaku, an   of red. In 1934 the Unzen-
       Edo-period tea garden; and    Amakusa National Park, one   Kuma Shochu
       a house-museum, Hakushu   of Japan’s first such protected   Museum
       Kinenkan, the birthplace    areas, was created.
       of Hakushu Kitahara (1885–    Most hotels in Unzen Spa   Shochu – usually made
       1942), a prolific writer best   have their own hot-spring   from sweet potato, rice,
                                                 or barley – is drunk on
       known for children’s poems.  baths. Away from the resorts,   the rocks, or mixed with
                           visitors can see the notori ous
                                                  water or juice. At this
       Hakushu Kinenkan    Hells (Jigoku): scalding sulfur-  museum, you can learn
       "   ⌂ 40-11 Okinohata-machi     ous cauldrons in which    about its production
       § (0944) 72-6773   # 9am–  30 Christians were boiled    and sample the liqueur.
       5:30pm daily        alive after the outlawing of
                           Christianity in Japan. As a   ! A6   ⌂ 1 Sinmachi,
                           demonstration of the ferocity   Hitoyoshi, Kumamoto
                                                     868-0052
                           of the waters, elderly ladies in   ∑ denshogura.jp
       The formidable bulk of   smocks lower eggs placed in
       Kumamoto Castle, built    baskets into the pools and sell
       in the early 17th century  them hard-boiled to tourists.
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