Page 235 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Ireland

NOR THWEST IRELAND  233

r Killybegs
Road map C2. Co Donegal. * 3,000.
@ from Donegal. n Donegal (074
972 1148). ∑ killybegs.ie
Narrow winding streets give
Killybegs a timeless feel, which
contrasts sharply with the
industriousness of this small
town. The sense of prosperity
stems in part from the manu-
facture of the Donegal carpets
for which the town is famous,
and which adorn Dublin Castle
(see pp80–81) and other palaces
around the world.
Killybegs is one of Ireland’s
busiest fishing ports and the
quays are well worth seeing
Slieve League, one of the highest sea cliffs in Europe when the trawlers arrive to off-
load their catch: gulls squawk
Concerned about the high rate reaching Bunglass Point and overhead and the smell of fish
of emigration from this poor Amharc Mor, the “good view”. fills the air. Trawlermen come
region, he sought to provide jobs From here, you can see the from far and wide – so do not
and a sense of regional pride, whole of Slieve League, its sheer be surprised if you hear Eastern
partly by encouraging people to cliffs rising dramatically out of European voices as you wander
set up craft cooperatives. There the ocean. around the town.
are regular craft demonstrations – Only experienced hikers
such as spinning – at the should attempt the treacherous
museum and the folk village ledges of One Man’s Pass. This
shop sells local wares. is part of a trail which climbs
There is plenty to explore westwards out of Teelin and
in the valley, which is littered up to the highest point of
with cairns, dolmens and other Slieve League – from where
ancient monuments. The nearby you can admire the Atlantic
coast is lovely too, the best walks Ocean shimmering 598 m
taking you west across the grassy (1,962 ft) below. The path then
foreland of Malinbeg. Beyond continues on to Malinbeg, 16 km
the small resort of Malin More, (10 miles) west. During the
steps drop down to an idyllic summer, for a less strenuous
sandy cove hemmed in by cliffs. but safer and equally rewarding
excursion, pay a boat-owner
E Folk Village Museum from Teelin to take you out to Trawler crew in Killybegs relaxing after
Dooey. Tel 074 973 0017. Open see Slieve League from the sea. unloading their catch
Easter–Sep: daily. & 8 - = 7
The Irish Gaeltachts
e Slieve League The term “Gaeltacht” refers to Gaelic-speaking areas of Ireland. Up
to the 16th century, virtually the entire population spoke the native
Road map B2. Co Donegal. @ to tongue. British rule, however, undermined Irish culture, and the
Carrick from Donegal or Killybegs.
Famine (see p223) drained the country of many of its Gaelic-speakers.
One of the highest cliff faces in The use of the local language has fallen steadily since. Even so, in the
Europe, Slieve League is Gaeltachts 75 per cent of the people still speak it, and road signs are
spectacular not just for its sheer exclusively in Irish – unlike in
elevation but also for its colour: most other parts of Ireland.
at sunset the rock is streaked The Donegal Gaeltacht
stretches almost unbroken
with changing shades of red, along the coast from Fanad
amber and ochre. The 8-km Head to Slieve League and
(5-mile) drive to the eastern end boasts the largest number of
of Slieve League from Carrick Irish-speakers in the country.
is bumpy but well worth Ireland’s other principal
enduring. Beyond Teelin, the Gaeltachts are in Galway
road becomes a series of Irish road sign in the Gaeltacht region and Kerry.
alarming switchbacks before

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