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326      TR A VELLERS ’  NEEDS

       Pubs in Ireland

       The archetypal Irish pub is celebrated for its convivial   KILKENNY: Kyteler’s Inn
       atmosphere, friendly locals, genial bar staff and the “craic” –   27 St Kieran’s St, Co Kilkenny.
                                               Road map C4. Tel 056 772 1064.
       the Irish expression for fun. Wit is washed down with whiskey or   In good weather you can sit in the
       Guinness, the national drinks. Irish pubs date back to medieval   courtyard of this historic coaching
       taverns, coaching inns and she beens, illegal drinking dens   inn and cellar bar. Food is served all
       which flourished under colo nial rule. In Victorian times,   day until 9pm (last orders). Traditional
                                               music is played from Friday to Sunday.
       brewing and distilling were major industries. The sumptuous   An effigy of a witch sits in the window
       Edwardian or Victorian interiors of some city pubs are a   frame, a reminder of the story of a
       testament to these times. Snugs, partitioned-off booths, are   former resident, Dame Alice Kyteler.
       another typical feature of Irish pubs. Traditional pubs can be   In 1324, Alice and her maid were
                                               pronounced guilty of witchcraft after
       boldly painted, thatched or “black-and-white” – beamed with   four of Alice’s husbands had died in
       a white façade and black trim. Some rural pubs double as   mysterious circumstances; although
       grocers’ shops. All pubs across Ireland are smoke-free, but   pardoned, Alice was again accused
       many have beer gardens where smoking is permitted.  but escaped, leaving her maid
                                               Petronella to burn at the stake. 07
         Good pubs are not evenly distributed throughout the country:
       in the Southeast, Kilkenny is paradise for pub-lovers, while Cork   KILKENNY: Langton’s
       and Kerry possess some of the most picturesque pubs. The   69 John St, Co Kilkenny.
       Lower Shannon region is noted for its boisterous pubs, especially   Road map C4. Tel 056 776 5133.
                                               Langton’s is noted for its black-and-
       in County Clare where spontaneous music sessions are common.   white exterior, Edwardian ambience
       The West has an abundance of typical Irish pubs, and the many   and the stylish glass interior at the
       tourists and students guarantee a profusion of good pubs in   back. The front bar is cosy with a low
       Galway. The listings below cover a selection of pubs throughout   ceiling. Pub food is on offer, and
                                               there’s music and dancing at least
       Ireland; for Dublin pubs, see pages 114–15.  one night a week during the summer;
                                               Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday are
          Southeast Ireland  ENNISCORTHY: The Antique Tavern  club nights. 07
                           14 Slaney St, Co Wexford.
       BRITTAS BAY: Jack White’s Inn  Road map D5. Tel 053 923 3428.  KILKENNY: The Left Bank
       Jack White’s Cross, Co Wicklow.    This traditional, timbered, black-and-  High St, Co Kilkenny.
       Road map D4. Tel 0404 47106.  white pub is charming. The dark,   Road map C4. Tel 056 775 0016.
       A typical Irish country pub perfectly   intimate bar contains relics such as   Encompassing a sports’ bar, an
       situated off the N11, which runs from   pikestaffs from Vinegar Hill, the   outdoor bar and a cocktail bar, this
       Dublin to the Southeast. Simple but   decisive battle in the 1798 uprising   venue in an impressive old city
       tasty pub fare is served until 9pm.    that was fought outside town. Pub   centre bank is vast yet hospitable.
       A real local legend, this pub is mired   lunches and local chat are on offer.   There are plenty of nooks for quiet
       in controversy, due to a murder    In good weather, you can sit on the   chat, as well as every option to be in
       com mitted here in 1996. 07   balcony and enjoy the pleasant views   the thick of it with room to dance
                           of the River Slaney. 07   and a sociable smoking area. 7
       CARLOW: Teach Dolmain
       Tullow St, Co Carlow.   ENNISCORTHY: Holohan  KILKENNY: Marble City Bar
       Road map D4. Tel 059 913 0911.  Slaney Place, Co Wexford.    66 High St, Co Kilkenny.
       This multi-award-winning pub, in   Road map D5. Tel 053 923 5743.  Road map C4. Tel 056 776 1143.
       Carlow’s town centre, has a cur ious   At the back of the Castle Museum,   Marble City Bar, the most famous
       collection of unique pottery and   this is essentially an evening-only   pub in town, is named after the local
       ancient artifacts from the town’s and   pub with few pretensions. Its   limestone, which becomes black
       Ireland’s history. This pub has an   unusual location makes it worth a   when polished. This four-storey
       excellent menu and is ideally suited   visit for a pint or two – it is built right   building has an Art Deco façade. A
       for large groups. 07   into the base of an old quarry and a   busy café-bar with no reservations.
                           vertical cliff forms part of the back   Bar food till 9pm. 07
       DUNGARVAN: Merry’s Gastro Pub  wall of the bar.
       Lower Main St, Co Waterford.             KILKENNY: Tynan’s Bridge House Bar
       Road map D5. Tel 058 24488.  KILKENNY: Hibernian  2 John’s Bridge, Co Kilkenny.
       Established in 1868, this is a relaxed,   1 Ormonde St, Co Kilkenny.   Road map C4. Tel 056 772 1291.
       friendly and popular pub on   Road map C4. Tel 056 777 1888.  This is the most genuine old-world
       Dungarvan’s main street. The    Sited in an old bank and part of    pub in town, with an intimate interior
       kitchen offers excellent pub grub   the Hibernian Hotel, this rather   lit by charming lamps. Quaint relics of
       (the steaks are excellent), using   formal pub, popular with a mixed   the former grocery store and
       locally sourced organic ingredients   age crowd, still has its original    pharmacy are on display, from a set of
       where possible. There’s a good   decor. Modern Irish food is available   old scales to the drawers labelled
       selection of craft beers and wines,   and live Irish music every Tuesday   with names of nuts and spices. Live
       and occasionally live music. 07  year-round. 07   music from Monday to Thursday.




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