Page 476 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

474  ROME AND LAZIO

The abandoned medieval village of Ninfa, now a beautiful garden
t Anagni well as 14th­century Sienese Cicero. About 3 km (2 miles)
frescoes. The crypt of San Magno above Arpino, at the site of the
Frosinone. * 20,000. V @
n Piazza Innocenzo III (0775 72 78 52 is frescoed with one of the most ancient town of Civitavecchia, is
or 0775 21 14 17). ( Wed. complete surviving cycles of the a tremendous stretch of Cyclo­
12th and 13th centuries. pean walls which includes a rare
According to legend, Saturn gateway with a pointed arch.
founded five towns in southeast Environs
Lazio, including Anagni, Alatri Alatri, perched on an olive­
and Arpino. This area is now covered slope 28 km (17 miles) y Sermoneta and
known as La Ciociaria, from east of Anagni, was an important Ninfa
ciocie, the bark clogs worn in the Hernician town. It preserves an
area until about 30 years ago. impressive double set of Latina. V Latina Scalo. @ from
Before the Romans conquered Cyclopean walls, 2 km (1 mile) Latina. n Via Varsavia, Latina (0773
this part of Lazio it was long and 3 m (10 ft) high, from its 48 06 72). Sermoneta: Loggia dei
Mercanti (0773 30 312). Ninfa:
inhabited by several different 7th­century­BC acropolis. In the Tel 0773 35 42 41 (phone for group
tribes: the Volsci, the Sanniti, medieval town below the walls is bookings). Open Apr–Nov: 1st Sat &
and the Hernici. Little is known the Romanesque church of Santa Sun of the month. &
of them, apart from the extra­ Maria Maggiore, greatly restored
ordinary walls with which they in the 13th century. Sermoneta is a lovely hilltop
protected their settlements. Arpino, 40 km (25 miles) east town overlooking the Pontine
In later years these were of Alatri, is a bustling town with Plains, with narrow cobbled
believed to have been built by a medieval core, and was the streets winding around
the Cyclops, a mythical giant, birthplace of the Roman orator, medieval houses, palaces and
which gave them their present churches. The Duomo has a
name of Cyclopean walls. fine 15th­century panel by
Anagni was the most sacred Benozzo Gozzoli showing the
Hernician centre until its Virgin cradling Sermoneta in
destruction by the Romans in her hands. At the top of the
306 BC. In the Middle Ages it town rises the moated fairy­
was the birthplace and family tale Castello Caetani, frescoed
seat of several popes, an era with mythological scenes by
from which many buildings a pupil of Pinturicchio.
survive, most notably Boniface In the valley below lies the
VIII’s 13th­century mullion­ abandoned medieval village
windowed palace. of Ninfa, converted into lush
The beautiful Romanesque gardens by the Caetani family
Duomo, Santa Maria, built over in 1921. Streams and waterfalls
the ancient Hernician acropolis, punctuate the picturesque
boasts a fine Cosmati mosaic An unusual pointed arch in the Cyclopean garden laid out among the
floor from the 13th century as walls at Arpino crumbling buildings.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp573–6 and pp596–600

474-475_EW_Italy.indd 474 4/5/17 9:30 AM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 14th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm