Page 24 - Forbes - USA (December 2019)

2019 Restaurant Review Cont.

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ABC Kitchen Hutong NoMad
Ai Fiori JoJo Nur

Antonucci Cafe Junoon Pastis
22
Aretsky’s Patroon La Goulue Perry St

T Avra Madison L’Artusi Portale
N
E Café Boulud Le Coucou Porter House Bar and Grill
M
M Carbone Leonti The Simone
O
C Crown Shy Maialino Tocqueville

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Frenchette The Mark Restaurant Union Square Cafe
T
C Gabriel Kreuther Michael’s Vaucluse
F A
Gem Misi Wayan

Crown Shy: Grilled pear salad, Nur: Jerusalem sesame bagel with cumin and
Meredith feta, pistachio lima bean messabaha with shipka peppers

Crown Shy, arguably New York City’s best new restaurant
of 2019, made a lot of sure-footed decisions with its eclectic
menu and soaring, light-filled spaces. Another noteworthy
newbie is Portale, an outstanding American-Italian eat-
ery created by much acclaimed chef Alfred Portale and
ensconced in a renovated carriage house. At the finest
Chinese restaurants there had traditionally been a re-
strained elegance, but with the arrival of Hutong from
Hong Kong, all of that has been replaced with excit-
ing excess. Theatrical magic abounds, with dishes to
match. Pastis, a former Meatpacking District bistro, is
Maialino: Lamb chop Scottadita with
back with a bang, its fare beyond fabulous. At French- charred fennel and green onion agrodolce
ette, a casual setting is coupled with outstandingly
prepared dishes. Avra Madison is packed—and de- Portale: Carpaccio short rib,
servedly so. Perry St’s fantastic food just seems to get arugula Pecorino Pepato and
anchovy caper emulsion
better and better. Renowned for its classic red-sauce
Italian cooking and outsize portions, Carbone contin-
ues to deliver the goods with efficiently brusque wait-
ers and movie-perfect “Little Italy” decor. The veal
Parmesan is perfection. Gabriel Kreuther’s haute cui-
sine has a distinctive Alsatian flavor and is impeccably
served in a casually elegant, modern setting. Vaucluse
successfully recreates the kind of French restaurant
that was once so prevalent with its flawless service, ex-
quisite offerings and reassuringly refined atmosphere.

D E C E M B E R 3 1 , 2 0 1 9 F O R B E S . C O M