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88      BRIT AIN  AND  IRELAND

       Scotland                                highlights here include dinosaur
                                               skeletons, Egyptian artifacts
       Scotland’s landscape is breathtaking, with sparkling lochs,   and a real spit fire suspended
       awesome mountains, and windswept isles. The ruggedness    in the main hall.
       of its climate and natural environment has helped to forge      The Hunterian Art Gallery
       a tough, self-reliant nation, whose history has been   houses Scotland’s largest print
                                               collection and paintings by major
       characterized by resistance to English domination. Castles,   European artists from the 16th
       many in ruins, are found all over the country – a legacy of    century to the present. A display
       its turbulent past. Culturally, Edinburgh has always been    of works by Glasgow’s most cele-
       the country’s chief attraction, but the rival city of Glasgow    brated designer, Charles Rennie
       has much to offer too, with many great free attractions.  Mackintosh (1868–1928), is supp-
                                               lemented by a reconstru ction of
                                               No. 6 Florentine Terrace, where
                           modern Glasgow, renowned for   he lived from 1906 to 1914.
                           its free galleries and museums.     South of the river, Pollok
                           The deprived East End stands   Country Park is the site of the
                           side by side with the restored   Burrell Collection, star of
                           18th-century Merchant City    Glasgow’s renaissance.
                           and Victorian George Square.  Highlights include examples
                             Glasgow’s cathedral was one   of 15th-century stained glass
                           of the few to escape destruction  and tapestries, a bronze bull’s
                           during the Scottish Reformation,  head (7th century BC) from
                           and is a rare example of an   Turkey, Matthijs Maris’ The Sisters
                           almost complete 13th-century   (1875), and a self-portrait by
                           church. The crypt holds the tomb   Rembrandt (1632). On the same
                           of St. Mungo. In the cathedral   site, Pollok House is an attractive
                           precinct, the St. Mungo Museum   Georgian building. It holds one
                           of Religious Life and Art is the   of Britain’s best collections of
                           first of its kind in the world,   16th- to 19th-century Spanish
       The imposing City Chambers in George   illustrating religious   paintings.
       Square, Glasgow     themes with a                     Other sights
                           superb range                worth visiting are
       f Edinburgh         of artifacts.               the Tenement
                             It is in the more         House, a modest
       See pp90–94.
                           affluent West End,          apartment in a
                           where merchants             tenement block
       g Glasgow           used to retreat from        preserved from
                           industrial Clyde side,   Stained glass by Charles Rennie  Edwardian times,
       * 593,000. k £ @ n 10
       Sauchiehall St (0845-859 1006).    that Glasgow’s most   Mackintosh  and Provand’s
       ( Sat, Sun. _ Jazz Festival (Jun).    impo rtant galleries   Lordship (1471),
       ∑ peoplemakeglasgow.com  and museums can be found. The   the city’s oldest-surviving house.
                           Kelvingrove Art Gallery and   The House for an Art Lov er is a
       Glasgow’s era of great prosperity   Museum, housed in a striking   showcase for the work of
       was the industrial 19th century.   red sandstone building dating   Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
       Coal seams in Lanarkshire fueled  from 1901, is home to a splendid   For a social history of the city
       the city’s cotton mills and   collection of art, with works by   from the 12th to the 20th
       ironworks, belying its Celtic   Botticelli, Giorgione, Rembrandt,   century, visit the People’s
       name, Glas cu, meaning “dear   Degas, Millet, and Monet, while   Palace, a cultural mus eum
       green place.” Relics of this   the Scottish Gallery contains the  located in the city’s East End.
       manufacturing past contrast   famous Massacre of Glencoe by
       starkly with the glossy image of   James Hamilton (1853–94). Other   E Kelvingrove Art Gallery and
                                               Museum
                                               Argyle St, Kelvingrove. Tel 0141-276
                                               9599. Open daily. Closed Jan 1–2,
                                               Dec 25–26. 8 7
                                               E Hunterian Art Gallery
                                               82 Hillhead St. Tel 0141-330 4221.
                                               Open Tue–Sun. Closed Dec 24–Jan 5
                                               & public hols. 7 restricted.
                                               E Burrell Collection
                                               Pollok Country Park. Tel 0141-287
                                               2550. Open daily. Closed Jan 1–2,
       The Burrell Collection in Pollok Country Park on Glasgow’s outskirts  Dec 25–26 & 31. 8 7 - =
       For hotels and restaurants see pp104–6 and pp107–9


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