Page 85 - (DK Eyewitness) Top 10 Travel Guide - Beijing

North of the Forbidden City ❮❮ 83

A DAY IN THE HUTONGS
Lama Temple
Wudingyao Hutong
Confucius Temple
Drum Tower
Yun’er
Silver Ingot Bell Small Anding Men
Bridge Tower Town Nei Dajie
Mercante
Di’an Men
Wai Dajie Nan Luogu Xiang
Mao’er
Lotus Lane Hutong
MORNING
Take an early morning stroll
along Wudingyao Hutong, where
Willow-lined lake in Hou Hai you can have breakfast at one of
the cafés. Then continue on to the
hutongs (alleys). Visit to admire a Lama Temple (see pp20–21). On
leaving, cross over the main road
handful of well-preserved mansions, and pass under the pailou (gate) at
as well as for the opportunity to see the entrance to Guozi Jian Jie for
a more humble form of Beijing life the Confucius Temple. Afterward,
as it has been lived for centuries sample Guozi Jian’s many cafés,
(see pp26–7). or browse through the city’s best
traditional craft shops. At the
Former Residence of
9 western end of Guozi Jian Jie
Mei Lanfang
turn left onto Anding Men Nei
MAP D2 • 9 Huguosi Jie • 8322 Dajie, a wide, shop-filled avenue,
follow it south across Jiaodaokuo
3598 • Subway: Jishuitan • Open Dong Dajie and take a right on
9am–4pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www. Dongmianhua Hutong, one of the
meilanfang.com.cn more vibrant of the city’s old
This was the home of Beijing Opera’s alleys. Take the first left onto Nan
greatest ever performer (1894–1961). Luogu Xiang (see p81), cross Gu
The rear rooms have been left with Lou Dong Dajie to Bei Luogu
their traditional furniture as it was Xiang, and stop for a Yunnan
when he died. Others contain a lunch on the terrace of Yun’er
hagiographic account of his life, Small Town (see p85) before
hitting the boutiques.
as well as diagrams of the stylized
movements required by the form, AFTERNOON
and a video of Mei, aged 61 but still
playing the young girl roles for which Head west along Mao’er Hutong
he was famous (see p52). until you reach Di’an Men Wai
Dajie, where you turn right and
Di Tan Park
0 up the street for the Drum and
Bell Towers (see p81). Climb the
MAP F1 • North of Lama
Temple • Subway: Yonghe Gong towers to see the route you’ve
just taken. Retrace your steps
• Open 6am–9pm daily • Adm back down Di’an Men Wai Dajie
• www.dtpark.com taking the very first right, a tiny
The park was named for the Altar of opening (usually marked by
Earth (Di Tan), which was a venue for waiting taxis) leading into Yandai
imperial sacrifices. The altar’s Xie Jie. At the end of this crooked
alley is the Silver Ingot Bridge;
square shape represents the earth. cross and bear left for Lotus
These days, the park is always full of Lane. For dinner, head east back
pensioners strolling, chatting, and into the hutongs for a cozy Italian
exercising. A lively temple fair is held meal at Mercante (see p57).
here at Chinese New Year.
See map on pp80–81
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