Page 223 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba

EASTERN CUBA  221

Bayamo “the Rebellious”
Bayamo has a long tradition of rebellion. In the early 1500s,
the native Indians, led by their chief, Hatuey, fiercely resisted
the Spanish (see p223). A few years later an African slave killed
the pirate Gilberto Girón, displaying his head as a trophy in the
central plaza. This episode inspired the epic poem Espejo de
Paciencia by Silvestre de Balboa, the first major work of Cuban
literature (see p32). But the most dramatic episode in the history
of Bayamo concerns the struggles for independence, during
which, on 10 October 1868, a group of local nationalists and
intellectuals – Juan Clemente Zenea, Carlos Manuel de Céspedes
(see p47), Pedro Figueredo, José Fornaris and José Joaquín Palma –
organized an anti-Spanish revolt. They entered the town on
20 October, and declared it the capital of the Republic in Arms. Interior of the Parroquial Mayor de
On 12 January, faced with the fact that Bayamo would be
recaptured by colonial troops, the citizens decided to set fire San Salvador
to their own town, an act which later led to the choice of
La Bayamesa as the national anthem. R Parroquial Mayor de San
Salvador
Plaza del Himno, esq. José Joaquín
Palma. Tel (23) 422 514. Open 9am–
noon & 2:30–5pm Mon–Fri,
9–10:30am Sun.
When the nationalists of Bayamo
chose to burn down their own
town rather than leave anything
for the Spanish, they put the holy
images kept in the Parroquial
Mayor (the Cathedral) into
safekeeping. That was the plan, at
all events. Unfortunately, the only
things spared by the fire were the
font (which had been used for
the baptism of Carlos Manuel de
The monument dedicated to the national anthem, La Bayamesa Céspedes) and the Capilla de los
Dolores, a chapel built in 1740,
which contained an image of
formerly Parque de San collection, with Céspedes’ the Virgin Mary and a Baroque
Francisco, north of Parque documents and personal altarpiece made of gilded wood.
Céspedes, is the Casa de la Trova items, including his steel and The altarpiece has a particularly
Olimpio La O, one of the town’s bronze sword. fine frame decorated with
few 18th-century buildings. Upstairs are several furnished tropical motifs and representa-
The courtyard is used by local rooms, one of which has a tions of local fruit and animals, an
groups for concerts. bronze bed with mother-of- unusual and very Cuban element
pearl medallions, a fine in the art of the 18th century.
E Casa Natal de Carlos example of colonial furniture. In 1916, Bishop Guerra
Manuel de Céspedes A gallery leads to the old commissioned the re construction
Calle Maceo 57, e/ Marmol y Palma. kitchen, which still has its of the old Parroquial Mayor,
Tel (23) 423 864. Open 9am–5pm original ceramic oven. dedicated to Jesus the Saviour,
Tue–Fri, 9am–2pm, 8–10pm Sat, the patron saint of Bayamo.
10am–1:30pm Sun. & 8 Note: fee The original building had been
for photography may apply. finished in 1613 and in the course
The house where the leading of time had been transformed
figure in the first war against into a large three-aisle church
Spain in the 19th century was with two choirs, nine altars and
born on 18 April 1819 is a a finely wrought pulpit.
handsome, two-storey colonial The new church was opened
building facing Parque Céspedes. on 9 October 1919, with the
Architecturally it is the most old image of Jesus the Saviour
important building in the city. salvaged from the fire, a new
The rooms on the ground marble altar, a patriotic painting
floor, which open onto a by the Dominican artist Luis
courtyard with a fountain, Façade of the birthplace of Carlos Manuel Desangles, and plastered brick
contain the heart of the de Céspedes walls frescoed by Esteban Ferrer.

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