Page 244 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba

242  CUBA REGION B Y REGION

u Guantánamo
Guantánamo. Road Map F4.
* 225,000. ~ @ £ n Infotur,
Calle Galixto García el Crombet y
Emilio Giró, (21) 351 993.
If it were not for the US naval
base and the famous song
Guantanamera (girl from
Guantánamo), this town would
probably only be known to
Cubans and music experts.
Its name, in fact, is linked with
the changuí, a variation of son
music that developed in the
coffee plantations in the
mountains, music made famous The Parroquial de Santa Catalina de Riccis in the Parque Martí
by the musician Elio Revé.
Guantanamera was composed this building’s eclectic architec­ Environs
by Joseíto Fernández in the tural style features a decorative Around 20 km (12 miles) east
1940s almost for fun, drawing façade of cornices and columns. of Guantánamo, on the road to
inspiration from a proud local A Neo­Classical cupola crowns Lomas de Yateras, a coffee­
girl who had not reacted to a the building, on top of which growing area, is an unusual
compliment he paid her. Later, stands a statue of La Fama – open­air museum, the Museo
some “literary” verses from the the messenger of Zeus, in Zoológico de Piedra. It was
Versos Sencillos by José Martí Greek mythology – by Italian founded by Angel Iñigo (1935–
were adapted to the music. architect Américo J Chini. 2014), a farmer and self­taught
The town of Guantánamo The Palacio is also home to the sculptor. Beginning in 1978 he
was founded in 1796 to take Museo de Artes Decorativas, produced sculptures of about 40
in the French fleeing from in which antique furniture and animals in stone, including lions,
Haiti and developed during decorative objects can be seen. boa constrictors, tapirs, buffaloes,
the 19th cen tury. The capital An interesting colonial rhinoceroses and gorillas, all of
of a varied pro vince where building facing Principal Parque which are on display.
desert areas studded with Martí is the old Spanish prison. Some 23 km (14 miles) south
cactus alternate with green It is now the home of the of Guantánamo city is the small
mountains, Guantánamo has modest Museo Provincial de port of Caimanera, north of the
few sights of note. Principal Guantánamo, which has a US naval base. It used to be
Parque Martí is dominated by fascinating room dedicated to possible to “spy” on the base
the Parroquial de Santa Cuba’s first space flight in 1980, from a viewing point, or mirador,
Catalina de Riccis (1863). a joint mission with the USSR. on a hill off the Baracoa road, but
Opposite the church is a The Plaza de la Revolución is this is now closed to the public.
statue of General Pedro A Pérez, one of the largest and probably Caimanera is within a Cuban
sculpted in 1928. Nearby, on most austere in the country. The military zone and is off­limits to
Calle Pedro A Pérez, stands one kitsch 1960s Hotel Guantánamo everyone except those who live
of the town’s most impressive dominates the vast, concrete there and those with a special
buildings, the Palacio de Plaza Mariana Garajales, which pass. It is relatively straight­
Salcines. Designed by architect itself is dominated by a forward to get hold of one of
José Leticio Salcines in 1919, towering brutalist sculpture, these passes, which permits you
Monument to the Heroes, which to visit by day or stay overnight
honours Cuba’s independence at Hotel Caimanera (see p262),
fighters, including Frank País. where there are views of the
base through the hotel tele­
E Museo de Artes Decorativas scope and a small, interesting
Calle Pedro A Pérez 804, e/ Prado y museum. You will need to get
Aguilera. Tel (21) 324 704. Open 8am– permission from the Ministry of
noon & 2–5pm Mon–Thu, 8am–noon the Interior and this can be
& 5–9pm Fri, 5–9pm Sat. arranged, with at least 72 hours’
E Museo Provincial de notice, through Izlazul at Hotel
Guantánamo Guantánamo, tel. (21) 381 015.
Plaza Martí, esq. Prado. Tel (21) 325
872. Open 8am–noon & 2:30–4:30pm E Museo Zoológico de Piedra
Mon–Fri, 8am–noon Sat. Closed 1 Jan, Boquerón de Yateras. Open 9am–6pm
Joseíto Fernández, composer of the 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. & 8 daily. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul,
song Guantanamera Note: fee for photography may apply. 10 Oct, 25 Dec. &
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp262–3 and p275

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