Page 266 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba
P. 266

264      TR A VELLERS ’  NEEDS

       WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

       In traditional Cuban cooking, rice and   of comida criolla (Creole cuisine, see p266).
       beans are the staples rather than bread,   Places offering food range from state-run
       and the most common dishes are meat-  restaurants and hotel restaurants (usually
       based. Seafood also features heavily with   comfortable and elegant), to paladares,
       shrimp, lobster and fish dishes found    or privately run restaurants (ranging from
       on a large proportion of restaurant menus.   informal to chic) that serve home cooking.
       Different influences can be seen in Cuban   In Havana, kiosks selling pizza, sandwiches
       cooking and there are local variations,   and ice creams are now everywhere.
       especially in the east of Cuba. Food is rarely  The restaurants listed on pages 270–75
       spicy. Besides international dishes, local   are arranged by area and cater to a variety
       menus generally feature some specialities   of different budgets.

       Restaurants and Cafés                   Paladares
       Cuba’s state-run restaurants            The cheapest and best places
       used to have a bad reputation.          offering Cuban cooking are called
       However, standards have improved        paladares. Traditionally, these are
       in many, particularly in Havana.        private restaurants offering a fixed
       This is partly due to competition       price or à la carte menu inside
       from private paladares, and             Cuban homes. Dishes are often
       some well-regarded state-run            simple but can be surprisingly
       restaurants, for example La             good – and often better quality
       Imprenta (see p270).                    than their state-run equivalents.
         Some of Havana’s most                 However, be wary of people
       delightful restaurants are housed       who accost you in the street
       in colonial buildings. Many have        and offer to show you a paladar:
       a view or a patio, and live music       once there, your helpful guide
       is often performed.                     will receive a commission and
         The restaurants in luxury hotels      your bill will cost a few pesos
       are usually high-quality and            more. Further more, they may ask
       feature international dishes along      you to treat them to dinner!
       with a good wine list. As an              Since Raúl Castro’s moderate
       alternative to formal à la carte   Elegant dining room with grand piano,   economic reforms in 2011, the
       dining, many hotels offer buffets,   Restaurante de Iberostar, Trinidad (p275)  private dining scene in Cuba has
       which in Cuba are called mesa           been transformed. Paladares
       sueca (smorgas bord), where, for   La Bodeguita del Medio and    have become more sophist-
       a fixed price, you can eat anything   El Floridita in Havana (see p270),   icated, and in some cases, have
       from pasta to roast pork with   and La Terraza de Cojímar (see   taken over entire apartments.
       rice and black beans.  p272). These are open all day   They are now found in beach
         Some of the capital’s most   serving snacks and cocktails,   resorts such as Varadero where,
       famous bars have a separately   and offer a full menu for lunch   previously, they had been
       managed restaurant, such as    and dinner.  banned. The greatest changes
                                               can be seen in Trinidad and
                                               Havana. In the capital,
                                               entrepreneurs have increased
                                               the range of dining options by
                                               opening chic dining establish-
                                               ments, putting Havana on the

                                               Private Homes
                                               It often happens that private
                                               homes offering rooms to let
                                               (casas particulares, see p254) also
                                               provide main meals as well as
                                               breakfast. Since the food usually
                                               eaten by the home owners is
                                               plainer than the food offered to
                                               guests, you will be asked to let
       Extensive buffet at the Meliá Paradisus resort in Varadero (p260)  them know in advance whether




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