Page 97 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Cuba

CENTRO HABANA AND PR ADO  95

Callejón de Hamel, famous for its exotic and colourful murals
Fraternidad. The middle section to his varied cultural roots by u City Walls
of the boulevard was reserved representing all the religious Avenida del Puerto Map 4 D5.
for carriages, while the two cults and movements of
side avenues with their African origin that are still The old colonial city of San
benches, trees and active in Cuba, hence the Cristóbal de La Habana was
fountains were for many symbols, writings, encircled and fortified by a
pedestrians. First named and images of African 9-m (30-ft) high wall with
Alameda de Tacón or gods and Abakuá nine bastions and a moat.
Paseo Militar, it was devils (see p27). He Construction began in 1671
renamed Avenida began this enormous and took over a century to
Carlos III in honour of project in 1990. complete, finishing in 1797.
the Spanish king who This alley has every- Once finished, the gates
encouraged Cuban thing: from small shops were closed every evening and
commerce and culture selling hand-crafted access to the bay was blocked
in the 18th century. religious objects to a by a chain. Cannon shots were
One of the most Nganga, the large fired every night from a ship
curious buildings on cauldron-like pot anchored in the bay, informing
the street is the Grand which forms the the inhabitants that the gates
National Masonic Representation of basis of Palo Monte, were closing. By the early
Temple, with a globe Oshún, the goddess the religion of former 19th century, the city was
on the roof, built in of love Bantu slaves from the expanding so fast that finally
the mid-1900s. African Congo. On in 1863 the walls had to be
Sundays Callejón de Hamel torn down. Today, the best
y Callejón de becomes the venue for rumba remaining sec tions are opposite
the Museo de la Revolución
shows, popular with the locals
Hamel and tourists alike. and by the train station.
Map 3 A2.
This street in the working-
class Cayo Hueso quarter is a
curious open-air Afro-Cuban
sanctuary. Its name derives
from a legendary French-
German resident called
Fernando Hamel, a wealthy
arms dealer-turned-merchant,
who took the entire quarter
under his wing. The colourful,
200-m (656-ft) mural here,
for which the street is now
famous, is the work of native
painter Salvador González.
He wanted to pay homage Remaining section of the old City Wall near Estación Central

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