Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - The Netherlands
P. 9

HOW  T O   USE  THIS   GUIDE      7

                             Introduction
            NOR THERN  AND  EASTERN  NE THERLANDS      335  The Netherlands
        GELDERLAND        1The scenery, history
        Gelderland is The Netherland’s largest province. Its name   and character of each   Area by Area
        derives from the 11th-century county of Gelre, which
        was linked with the town of Geldern, just over the
        border in Germany. The town was the fiefdom of Gerard   province are outlined
        de Rossige, whose grandson Gerard II of Wassenberg   The Netherlands is divided into 12
        pronounced himself Count of Gelre in 1104.
        Succeeding counts skilfully expanded    that welcome visitors throughout the   here, showing how    provinces. Each of these provinces,
        their territory to include the Veluwe region   province. In more recent times, the region,
        to the north, the Betuwe in the southwest    and especially the strategically located   the area has changed
        and the county of Zutphen (see p345).   towns of Arnhem and Nijmegen, saw
        When in 1248 the imperial town of Nijmegen   heavy fighting towards the end of World   together with Amsterdam and the
        was annexed, Gelre became a power to    War II. The heroic action at Arnhem is   through the centuries,
        be reckoned with. A number of its towns   remembered in the town’s Airborne
        joined the Hanseatic League, and in 1339   Museum, while the museum in Nijmegen   Wadden Islands, are dealt with in
        the county was promoted to a duchy by   recalls this town’s long history from    and what it has to offer
        the German emperor. The increasing    pre-Roman times to the tyranny of the
        power of the Habsburgs threatened the   Holy Roman Empire.
        independence of the Gelders, eventually     While visitors can enjoy many modern   today’s visitor.  separate chapters. The most inter­
        leading to the duke having to cede the   attractions, perhaps Gelderland’s greatest
        territory in 1543 to Charles V. Gelderland   asset is its contrasting natural scenery,
        thus became part of the Netherlands.  which ranges from heaths and woodlands   esting towns, villages and places are
          This colourful history is manifest    in the north to the beautiful Betuwe river
        today in the number of medieval buildings,  valley and the pretty agricultural region
        churches, castles and fortified towns    of the Achterhoek.  shown on the Regional Map.
                             296      NOR THERN  AND  EASTERN  NE THERLANDS  FRIESLAND      297
                             Exploring Friesland
                             Friesland is famous for its vast meadows and its distinctive
                             farmhouses of the kop-hals-romp and stelp types. It also
                             boasts a varied landscape. In the southwest are the popular   Lauwersoog
                             Friese meren (Frisian lakes), while the north is typified by   Anjum
                             undulating dykes, terp villages and church steeples with   Holwerd  Lauwers
                             pitched roofs. Gaasterland in the south has rolling woodlands   Meer
                             and cliffs, whereas the Friese wouden (Frisian woods) in the   The sea dyke at Wierum  Ferwerd  DOKKUM
                             province’s southeastern corner, with their forests, heathland
                             and drifting sands, are more reminiscent of Drenthe.
        A 17th-century granary near Winterswijk  Damwoude  Kollum
                                         St. Annaparochie
        View of the old Dutch city of Nijmegen
                             Sights at a Glance  Stiens  Dokkumer Ee   The terp of Hogbeintum, west of Dokkum, the
                             1 Leeuwarden           Buitenpost  highest in Friesland
                             2 Dokkum          Veenwouden
                             3 Franeker   Sexbierum  Menaldum
                             4 Harlingen
                             5 Bolsward   FRANEKER  Dronrijp  LEEUWARDEN  Bergumer-
                             6 Workum           Bergum  Meer  Surhuisterveen  0 kilometres  10
                             7 Hindeloopen   HARLINGEN  0 miles  5
                             8 Gaasterland
                             9 Sloten
            Regional Map     0 Sneek   Wommels  Wieuwerd  Prinses Margriet Ka naal   Earnewâld
                                               OUDE VENEN
                             q Thialfstadion
                             e Beetsterzwaag
         2This map shows the   w Oude Venen   Grou  FRIESLAND  Drachten
                             r Appelscha
                                    Makkum  BOLSWARD  BEETSTERZWAAG
            main roads and               SNEEK  Akkrum  Donkerbroek
            the main tourist        WORKUM   Joure  Gorredijk  Oosterwolde
            attractions of an area,   HINDELOOPEN Fluessen  Heerenveen  THIALFSTADION  Oldeberkoop  APPELSCHA
            and also gives useful   The Noorderhaven in Harlingen  Stavoren  Koudum  Balk Sloter Meer  SLOTEN  Tjeukemeer  Wolvega  Noordwolde  Key
            information about   Getting Around  Rijsterbos  GAASTERLAND  Lemmer       Motorway
                                        Oudemirdum
                                                        Major road
                             Friesland is convenient and easy to get to.       Minor road
                             It is crossed by the A7 (east–west) and the
            driving and rail travel.  A32 (north–south) motorways. Rail and        Scenic route
                             bus links are unproblematic. Most of the
                                                        Main railway
                             larger villages and towns have a railway      Minor railway
                             station; those which don’t can be reached      Regional border
                             by bus. From Harlingen, Holwerd or
                             Lauwersoog, the islands are only a short
                             boat ride away. The province also has a
                             good network of minor roads, walking
                             routes and cycle tracks.
                                     Gabled houses along Het Diep in Sloten  Picturesque Lindevallei at Wolvega, near Thialfstadion
                             For map symbols see back flap  For hotels and restaurants in this region see p399 and p413
                Colour tabs are used to colour­  276      NOR THERN  AND  EASTERN  NE THERLANDS  THE   WEST  FRISIAN  ISLANDS      277
                code each province a different   E Oudheidkamer  4 De Slufter
                                             Kogerstraat 1, Den Burg.    Road Map B2. * none. g @
                shade for easy reference.    Tel 0222-313135. Open 1 Apr–31 Oct:   Open all year, northern part closed
                                             11am–5pm Mon–Fri, 2–4pm Sat.
                                                    1 Mar–1 Sep. n Emmalaan 66, Den
                                             Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Whitsun, 25, 26 &
                                             31 Dec, public hols. &  Burg (0222-314741).
                                                    The distinctive natural area of
                                                    De Slufter, consisting of salt
                                                    marshes covering 450 ha
                                                    (1,100 acres), is covered with
                                                    salt-loving plants such as sea
                                                    thrift and sea lavender, and is
                                                    an important breeding and
           Detailed Information    Noorderhaaks, above sea level at high tide for some decades now  different bird species. De Slufter,
                                                    feeding ground for many
                                                    and the neighbouring De Muy,
                                   1 Noorderhaaks
                                                    where spoonbills breed, are
                                        Kogerstraat runs the length
        3 Major sights and attractions are   Road Map B2. * none. n Emmalaan   of the Binnenburg. Located    Beachcomber on Texel, the most populated   magnificent rambling areas.
                                        here is the Oudheidkamer,
                                             of the Frisian Islands
                                   66, Den Burg (0222-314741).
                                        an antiquities museum set up
                                                    5 Den Hoorn
                                   Noorderhaaks, also known as
                                        in a picturesque 16th-century
          described in detail in the order in   Razende Bol (raging ball), is a   building, which used to be a   3 De Koog   Road Map B2. * 450. g @
                                        doss-house. Today it contains
                                   fairly bleak sandbank west of
                                             Road Map B2. * 1300. g @
                                                    n Emmalaan 66, Den Burg (0222-
                                   Den Helder, 2.5 km (1.5 miles)
                                                    314741). ( Jul–Aug: Thu.
                                        period rooms, a display of
                                             n Emmalaan 66, Den Burg
                                   offshore. The sea currents cause
                                        artifacts and works of art
                                             (0222–314741). ( Jul–Aug: Tue.
          which they are numbered on the   the island to shift eastwards   in the attic, and a herb garden.  In 1900, the former fishing   Like Den Burg, Den Hoorn   Salt-loving plants thriving at the water’s edge, De Slufter
                                          Along and around the town
                                   towards Texel, after which
                                                    stands on boulder clay. It has a
                                   another “raging ball” appears at
                                        wall are several interesting
                                                    distinctive Hervormde kerk
                                             settlement of De Koog consisted
                                        shopping streets, such as the
                                   the same point off Den Helder.
                                             of a church (built in 1415) and
                                                    (Protestant church) with a
          Regional Map. Within each entry is   The Dutch air force occasionally   Weverstraat. A number of   a few houses and farms. The first   pointed steeple and church-  Unlike the other islands, Vlieland   19th-century paintings. The
                                   uses the island for target practice,
                                                    yard dating from 1425. This
                                             tourist facility was the Badhotel,
                                        excellent restaurants are to be
                                   but it is not off-limits for visitors.
                                                    exquisitely restored village has
                                                         consists only of dunes, covered
                                             later the Hotel Prinses Juliana,
                                                              houses are separated by alleys
                                        found on the Warmoesstraat.
                                             with a garden overlooking
                                   Rowing and swimming here
                                                    been given protected status.
                                                         with a purple haze of heather,
                                                              known as “gloppen”. There is no
          detailed information on buildings,   are risky because of the powerful   Environs  the sea. Today, De Koog has   6 Vlieland   marram grass and sea buckthorn.  room for cars here, not even for
                                                         In the east, the woods planted
                                   currents. Adventure-seekers
                                                              those of the islanders.
                                        South of Den Burg is a sloping
                                             accommodation for 20,000
                                   regularly visit Noorderhaaks
                                                         just after 1900 provide a bit of
                                        landscape with the 15 m (50 ft)
                                                                The best way to explore
                                             visitors in hotels, pensions and
                                   by boat or by helicopter,
                                                         variety in the landscape.
                                             camp sites. The centre of De
                                                              Vlieland is by bicycle; the island
                                        Hoge Berg (high mountain),
                                                    Road Map C1. * 1,000. g
          parks, museums and other sights.  unable to resist this piece of    which offers a great view of the   Koog is the Dorpsstraat,    n Havenweg 10, Oost-Vlieland     In the south is the only village,  can be covered in one day. From
                                                         Oost-Vlieland, where the boat
                                   total wilderness, where mirages
                                             which has cafés, snack bars
                                                              Oost-Vlieland, you can cycle
                                                    (0562-451111).
                                        island. For a good walk, follow
                                        the Skille paadje from the tomb
                                                         from Harlingen docks. Many old
                                                              west  wards along tracks through
                                             and discos. De Koog’s attractions
                                   are common.
                                        of the Georgiers (resistance   for visitors are the Calluna    Vlieland is the smallest of the   buildings line the main street.   the dunes or along the Wadde-
                                        fighters who died fighting the   waterpark and EcoMare,    Waddenzee Islands. In some   One of them, the Tromp’s Huys   nzee shoreline to the Posthuys
                                   2 Den Burg   Germans in 1945) to the fishing   an information centre for    places, less than one kilometre   (1576), used to belong to the   (post house), where in the 17th
                                        village of Oudeschild, past the   the Waddenzee and the    (half a mile) separates the   Amsterdam Admiralty. Today it   century the overseas mail was
                                   Road Map B2. * 6,000. g @    peat walls and sheep pens.  North Sea (see p427).  Waddenzee and the North Sea.   houses a museum with   brought from Amsterdam to be
                                   n Emmalaan 66 (0222-314741).   loaded onto ships waiting to sail.
                                   ( Mon am; Jul–Aug: Wed.
                                                              Further westwards is de Vliehors,
                                   Den Burg is the main town of   an area of natural interest which
                                   Texel and situated right in its   can be explored if no military
                                   centre. Around 1300, the village   exercises are taking place here.
                                   was fortified by a circular   Beware of get ting stuck in the
                                   rampart with a moat, which are   soft drifting sand. This is also
             Story boxes explore   now marked by the Burgwal   where the wealthy village of
                                   and Parkstraat Streets. A sheep
                                                              West-Vlieland once stood. It was
                                   market was once held in April   consumed by the waves after it
             specific topics.      and May at the Groeneplats,   was abandoned in 1736.
                                   Den Burg’s main square, with the
                                                              E Tromp’s Huys
                                   present-day town hall. Today, a
                                   sheep day is held on the first   Dorpsstraat 99, Oost-Vlieland.
                                   Monday of September. Further   Tel 0562-451600. Open school hols:
                                   on, by the Binnenburg, or inner   10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 2–5pm Sat, 2–4pm
                                   castle, stands the 15th-century   Sun; outside school hols: 2–5pm Tue–
                                   Late Gothic Hervormde kerk   Thu, 10am–1pm Fri, 2–5pm Sat.
                                   (Protestant church). The   The Nederlands-Hervormde church in Den Burg (1481)  The village hall in Oost-Vlieland  Closed 1 Jan, Easter, Pentecost. &
                                    ZEELAND      251
         250      WESTERN  NE THERLANDS  For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp398–9 and p412
         1 Oosterschelde        Concrete Piers  VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
                                The piers were
         Stormvloedkering       made on the   Practical Information
                                artificial island of
         Throughout the centuries, the history of the Netherlands   Neeltje Jans and   Road Map A4–5. Deltapark
                                    Neeltje Jans, Faelweg 5,
         has been dominated by its people’s struggle against the   then transported   Vrouwenpolder.
                                by special barges
         sea. After the disastrous floods of 1953, which hit Zeeland   The Windsock  to their destination.   Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5:30pm
         heavily, the battle to remove the danger of the sea once   When the windsock is full, a   This mighty task   daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Wed,
                                    Sat & Sun. & 7 - 0 =
         and for all was undertaken in earnest. Now the Dutch seem   warning is sounded, and people   attracted a great   Transport  Visitors’ Checklist gives
                                deal of attention.
         to have minimized the threat of flooding by building   are advised to avoid driving over   @ 133.
         dykes and dams and closing off tidal inlets, all of which   the dams and bridges between
                   the islands. Vigilance saves lives.
         has had a major impact on the landscape.
                                           practical information to
                               The Delta Works  help you plan your visit.
                             The Delta Works have had far-
                             reaching consequences for the
                             landscape and environment. The
                             Zeeland islands, having been
                             joined to the mainland, are no
                               longer isolated.
         Storms
         Storms are a part of everyday life
         in Zeeland: storms on the beach
         or over the flat polders, storms   Half-open Buttress Dam
         which blow the cobwebs away
         and storms which make you fear   It took 13 years and €3.6 billion (two-thirds
         for your life.          of the cost of the Delta Works) to build the
                                 Oosterschelde kering. After much deliberation,
                                 the decision was made to keep open the
                                 estuary and to preserve the salty estuary
                                 habitat. A half-open multiple buttress dam
                                 was built, with 62 sliding gates, which are
                                 closed on average once a year during heavy
                 The Fateful Night of 1953  storms. This keeps the water salty and has    The Top Sights
                                 preserved the unique salt marshes and mud
                 On the night of 31 January 1953,    flats of the Oosterschelde.
                 an event considered impossible in
                 modern times occurred. A combination
                 of spring tides and storms breached   KEY  4These sights are described on
                 the dykes and washed them away    1 Concrete piers bear the sea wall.
                 as loose sand. A total of 1,835 people
                 lost their lives.  2 The sliding gates are closed only
                                   when the water is high.  two or more pages. Cutaway
                                   3 A road has been built over
         Deltapark Neeltje Jans    the dam.
         This attraction has been built on an artificial island, Neeltje Jans, on   4 Ground protection prevents the   illustrations and floor plans show
                                   earth from being washed away.
         which the piers for the Oosterschelde Stormvloedkering (storm
         surge barrier) were assembled, then taken by special barges to their   5 The piers rest on
         positions. Now that task is finished, the island is being used mainly for   solid foundations.
         recreational and informative         the most important buildings,
         purposes. At the Deltapark
         you can find out about the
         Delta projects and about how
         the barrier works. You can see       museums and other sights.
         the barrier from the inside,
         and then take a boat trip to   Luctor et Emergo
         view it from the outside.   This Latin motto meaning
         There is an aquarium here,    “I struggle and emerge   The Terps
         as well as a seal show; you   victorious” is on Zeeland’s   Man-made mounds,
         can also experience a   coat of arms, which depicts   such as these near Borssele,
         simulated hurricane in the   the Netherlands lion half in   were built in the 11th and 12th
         “hurricane machine”.  Neeltje Jans, educating visitors about the sea  the water. This was wholly   centuries to protect farms and
                   appropriate for 1953.  villages from the water.
         For hotels and restaurants in this region see p398 and pp411–12
   006-007_EW_Netherlands.indd   7                          16/01/17   11:53 am
   4   5   6   7   8   9   10   11   12   13   14