Page 36 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

34 BACK ROADS FRANCE

6 Mittelbergheim 8 Château de
Bas-Rhin, Alsace; 67140 Haut-Koenigsbourg
Frankish king and Holy Roman Orschwiller, Bas-Rhin, Alsace; 67600
Emperor Charles le Gros gifted this The château is mostly a medieval-
winemaking fiefdom to his wife style reconstruction of the castle
Richarde at the end of the 9th as it was in 1600 (open daily). The
century. Visitors can wander down spectacular pink sandstone goliath
the steep Rue Principale past a couple tower s 800 m (2,625 ft) above the
of small public squares, Gothic Alsace plain from its forest realm. It
churches and geranium-covered was built to watch over the wine
water wells. Marvel at the beautiful and wheat routes to the north,
ornate façades of old winemaker and silver and salt routes from
houses, and peep into their inner west to east. The château-fort was
courtyards, surrounded by hefty demolished by the Swedish army
wooden beams. Enthusiasts of wine during the Thirty Years’ War in the
history may like to see the antique 17th century. It was rebuilt in 1899
oak-grape crusher – the pressoir – in by German Emperor Guillaume II as
the Cour d’Îmière on Rue de la a symbol of the regain ing of Alsace
Montagne, while the Renaissance from France. Inside there are murals,
town hall, Hôtel de Ville, has a display antediluvian furniture, cast-iron
on winemaking since 1510. stoves and medieval weaponry and
ª Continue down Rue Principale, furniture. The views from the top of
then, at the end, turn right onto the the tower reach as far as Germany’s
D62 towards Andlau. Black Forest and the Alps.
ª Take the D1bis1 to Saint-
7 Andlau Hippolyte, turn right into the D1bis
Bas-Rhin, Alsace; 67140 Route du Vin
Bears and wines are clearly the
sacred things here – the bear on the Wine Elites
town hall square, Place de la Mairie, is The grand cru vintages represent
Top Parish church of Mittelbergheim Above clutching a cluster of grapes. Every just 4 per cent of Alsace wines. The
Colombage house in Ribeauvillé village baker who came to sell bread French National Appellations
here was once required to bring a Institute classifies two other special
WHERE TO STAY loaf a week for the bears. Andlau is wine styles: the intensely sweet and
home to three of Alsace’s Grand Cru aromatic Vendages Tardives made
MITTELBERGHEIM Rieslings, which local winemakers from late-harvested, overripe
Winstub Gilg Hôtel Restaurant attribute to the purity invested by grapes; and the complex, honey-
moderate–expensive the mineral-rich soils – the schist and apricot-scented botrytis wines,
The rooms of this small inn have a of Kastelberg, the sandstone of Selection de Grains Nobles. Some of
country elegance to them. these are considered master pieces,
1 route du Vin, 67140; 03 88 08 91 37; Wiebelsberg and the fossilized as their high prices reflect.
www.hotel-gilg.com limestone of Moenchberg. Guided
visits to the Abbatial d’Andlau
ANDLAU
(Abbey of Andlau) can be organized 9 Bergheim
Zinck Hotel inexpensive–moderate through the tourist office (open Mon– Haut-Rhin, Alsace; 68750
Housed in a former corn mill, the
rooms here are based on three themes Sat except public holidays). Andlau is The surrounding walls of this flowery
– the English, the Empire and the 1950s. also known for its parish church, fortressed town sweep in eight
13 rue de la Marne, 67140; 03 88 08 27 Saints-Pierre-et-Paul, which is a fine medieval towers from the main
30; www.zinckhotel.com example of Romanesque architec- gateway – the Obertor or upper
ture. The ruins of the nearby castles tower. Its colombage tower is topped
RIBEAUVILLÉ
of Haut-Andlau and Spesbourg are by an ornate tiled roof. The main
L’Hôtel de la Tour moderate
This intimate hotel has a salon, a cosy worth exploring. Both were built village square, the Place du Marché,
wine cellar and a restaurant. during the 13th century. with its sandstone fountain, sundial
1 rue de la Mairie, 68150; 03 89 73 ª From Andlau take the D253 and vine growers’ houses in Gothic
72 73; www.hotel-la-tour.com
towards Itterswiller, then turn right and Renaissance styles, is the town’s
Le Clos Saint-Vincent and take the D35 through Itterswiller, highlight. In the late 16th and early
moderate–expensive Dambach-la-Ville, Scherwiller, 17th centuries dozens of women
An elegant hotel among the vines, this Châtenois to Kintzheim. Turn right were accused of witchcraft and
has refined furnishings.
Osterbergweg, 68150; 03 89 73 67 65; into the D159 to Haut-Koenigsbourg. burnt to death in this town. The
www.leclossaintvincent.com Parking along the road to the château Maison des Sorcières (open May–Nov,
is free, but the queue can be long. closed Mon, Tue) holds exhibitions
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150