Page 322 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - France
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EXPERIENCE MORE



        4                     COLETTE           5
        Auxerre                                 Sens
                              One of the greats of
        ! E3   ⌂ Yonne   £    French litera ture, the   ! E3   ⌂ Yonne   £ @
                              avant-garde writer and
      EXPERIENCE  Burgundy and Franche-Comté  justifiably proud of its fine   Forterre, in 1873. She is   and Vanne, was important
                                                n Place Jean-Jaurès; www.
        n 1–2 quai de la République
                              actress was born in St-
                                                tourisme-sens.com
        www.ot-auxerre.fr
                              Sauveur-en-Puisaye,
                                                The little town of Sens, at the
        Beautifully sited overlooking
                              near La Puisaye-
        the Yonne river, Auxerre is
                                                confluence of the rivers Yonne
                              perhaps best known for
        churches and charming
                                                before Caesar came to Gaul.
                              her 1944 novella, Gigi,
                                                It was the Senones whose
        pedestrianized main square,
                              but it is her frank – and
        place Charles-Surugue.
                                                attempted sacking of the
                              semi-autobiographical –
                                                Roman Capitol in 390 BC was
          The fine Gothic Cathédrale
                              treatment of mar ried
                              life and sexuality that
                                                thwarted by a flock of geese.
        St-Étienne took more than
                              launched her into
        three centuries to build and
                                                  The Cathédrale St-Étienne
                                                is the outstanding glory of
                              noto riety. Her birth-
        was completed around 1560.
                                                Sens. Begun before 1140, it is
                              place has now been
        It is famous for its intricate
        13th-century stained glass.
                              museum cele brating
        The choir, which has slender
                                                cathedrals, and its noble
                              her life and work.
                                                simplicity influenced other
        columns and colonnettes,
                                                churches. Louis IX did the
        represents the epitome of
                                                town the honour of getting
        Gothic elegance, while on    transformed into a   the oldest of the great Gothic
        the western portals is some   abbey church of St-Germain.   married here in 1234.
        beautiful flamboyant   The abbey was founded by     The exquisite 12th- to 16th-
        sculpture sadly damaged by   Queen Clothilde, wife of   century stained glass shows
        war and weather. The crypt is   Clovis, the first Christian King   biblical scenes, including the
        Romanesque, and adorned   of France, and is an important   Tree of Jesse, and a tribute
        with 11th- to 13th-century   shrine. This crypt has 11th- to   to Thomas Becket, who was
        frescoes, including one that   13th-century frescoes and   exiled here in 1164. His litur-
        depicts Christ riding a white   tombs. The former abbey now   gical robes are in the Treasury,
        horse. The severely pillaged   houses the Musée St-Germain   part of Les Musées de Sens,
        treasury is less impressive,   with local Gallo-Roman finds.  which has one of the finest
        but does have an interesting            collections in France.
        collection of illuminated   Musée St-Germain    The performing arts
        manuscripts. St Germanus,   =   ⌂ 2 place St-Germain     festi val Musicasens draws
        who was bishop of Auxerre   § 03 86 18 05 50   # 9am–  crowds in July with music
        during the 5th century,   6pm Wed–Sun (to 5pm Oct–  stages, art instal-
        and mentor to St Patrick,   Mar)   ¢ 1 & 8 May, 1 & 11   lations, dance classes
        was buried at the former   Nov, last week Dec   and even a circus.
   322-323_EW_France.indd   322                              30/01/2019   16:51



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