Page 359 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - France
P. 359

the Cévennes is a remote,
       mountainous region of wind-
       whipped plateaux, rivers and
       gorges. It was designated a
       national park in 1970, and is
       an excellent destination for
       hiking and other outdoor
       activities. The best-known
       walking path follows the
       route taken by author Robert
       Louis Stevenson. The Corniche
       des Cévennes is a dramatic
       drive from Florac to St-Jean-
       du-Gard, which was cut in the
       early 18th century by the
       army of Louis XIV in pursuit of
       the Camisards, Protestant
       rebels who had no uniforms
       but fought in their ordinary
       shirts (camiso in the langue
       d’oc). Florac is the main hub
       for hiking and other outdoor
       pursuits, and you can also
       explore charming traditional
       towns such as La-Garde-                     Striking underground
       Guerin and Anduze.                          rock formations found
                                                   in the Grand Causses
       26                  some desolate hiking. The   named accordingly: there’s
       Grands Causses      four Grands Causses – Méjean,   the chaos of Montpellier-le-
                           Sauveterre, Noir and Larzac –   Vieux, Nîmes-le-Vieux and
       ! E6   ⌂ Aveyron   ~ Rodez-  stretch out east of the city     Roquesaltes. Aven Armand
       Marcillac   £ @ Millau
       n Millau; www.millau-  of Millau, which boasts the   and the Dargilan Grotto are
       viaduc-tourisme.fr  tallest vehicular bridge in    vast and deep natural under-
                           the world. They extend from   ground grottoes.
       The Causses are vast, arid    Mende in the north to the      A good place to head for
       lime stone plateaux, alternating   Vis river valley in the south.  in the Larzac Causse is the
       with green, fertile canyon     Among the sights in the   strange, rough-hewn stone
       valleys. The only sign of life at   Causses are the chaos – bizarre   village of La Couvertoirade,
       times is a bird of prey, or an   rock formations reputed to   a fully enclosed citadel of the
       isolated stone farm or shep-  resemble ruined cities, and   Knights Templar in the 12th
       herd’s hut. The area makes for          century. The unpaved streets
                                               and medieval houses are an
                                INSIDER TIP    austere reminder of the dark
                                Natural        side of the Middle Ages. Entry
                                Swimming Holes  to the village is free, with a
                            Scattered through out   small fee for the tour of the
                            the Auvergne are a   surrounding ramparts.
                            number of natural      The best- known village in
                            lakes – some formed over   the Larzac Causse is probably
                            the years in dormant   Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, a
                            volcano craters – that   small grey town terraced
                            are appealing places to   on the side of a crumbled
                            swim. Some have small   lime stone outcrop. It has only
                            beaches, such as Lac   one main street and one
                            Chambon, with its two   major product, Roquefort
                            south-facing sandy   cheese. This is made from
                            stretches. A few have   unpasteur ized sheep’s milk,
                            obtained Blue Flag   seeded with a distinctive blue
                            status that guarantees   mould grown on loaves of
                            exellent water quality.  bread, and aged in the warren
                                               of damp caves above the town.
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