Page 433 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - France
P. 433

France), together with the   Château de Puyguilhem  is the gilded salon, decorated
       verdant rockface behind,   "\=   ⌂ Villars   # Hours   in the 1560s by the talented
       provide this picturesque town   vary, check website   ¢ 1 Jan,   Ambroise le Noble, of the
       with a dramatic backdrop.  1 May, 1 &11 Nov, 25 Dec     Fontainebleau School.
         The poet Pierre de   ∑ chateau-puyguilhem.fr
       Bourdeille (1540–1614) was              Château de Bourdeilles
       appointed abbot here in his   Grotte de Villars  "'=   § 05 53 03 73 36
       youth. One of his lovers was   "'   ⌂ Villars   # Hours   # Hours vary, call ahead
       allegedly Mary, Queen of   vary, check website     ¢ Jan
       Scots. After a crippling fall,   ∑ grotte-villars.com
       Bourdeille retired here in 1569
       to write his racy memoirs. It is
       possi ble to wander the stone   8
       staircases and cloisters, and                 EAT
       walk through the main court­  Bourdeilles
       yard to the troglodyte dwel­  ! D6   ⌂ Dordogne       Auberge de la Truffe
       lings in the cliff behind. In     n 63 place Tilleuls; www.  Truffles figure
       one of these dwellings are two   perigord-dronne-belle.fr  prominently in Périgord,
       scenes (the Last Judgment                 and this inn is the ideal
       and the Crucifixion) that were   This town may be small, but    place to sample them.
       cut into the stone between   it has much to offer – a Gothic    ! D6   ⌂ Le Bourg,
       the 16th and 17th centuries.   bridge with cutwater piers   Sorges  ∑ auberge-de-la-
         Just 12 km (7 miles) north­  over the River Dronne, a mill   truffe.com
       east lies the Renaissance   and the medieval Château de
       Château de Puyguilhem, set   Bourdeilles. The 16th­century   ¡¡¡
       in lovely grounds at the foot   additions to the castle were
       of a wooded valley. Nearby is   designed in a hurry by the   L’Esplanade
       the Grotte de Villars. As well   châtelaine Jacquette de Mont­  Sublime views from its
       as spectacular rock formations,   bron, when expecting a visit   terrace and superb
       this underground network of   from Queen Catherine de’   cuisine make this hotel-
       caves house some marvel lous   Medici. After the royal visit   restaurant a must.
       cave paintings dating back   was called off, so were the    ! D6   ⌂ Domme
       some 19,000 years.  building works. The highlight   ∑ esplanade-
                                                    perigord.com
                                                      ¡¡¡
                                                   Le Puits Saint-
                                                     Jacques
                                                  Exquisite cuisine and
                                                 wines are showcased
                                                  at this restaurant set
                                                   in a farmhouse.
                                                    ! D6   ⌂ Ave Victor
                                                   Capoul, Pujaudran
                                                 ¢ Sun evening, Mon & Tue
                                                 ∑ lepuitssaintjacques.fr
                                                      ¡¡¡

                                                   Au Fil de l’Eau
                                                  A riverside setting
                                                 makes this fish restaur-
                                                 ant ideal for a summer
                                                 evening meal. It can get
                                                  busy, so book ahead.
                                                    ! D6   ⌂ 21 quai
                                                   Bertin, Brantôme
                                                    ¢ Mid-Oct–Apr
                                                   ∑ fildeleau.com
                                                      ¡¡¡



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