Page 495 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - France
P. 495

5 DAYS




      in Western Provence



        Day 1                         Afternoon Wander the vast necropolis
        Morning Start your trip in Orange (p512)   at Les Alyscamps (p499). Romans believed
        with coffee and a croissant in a café on   it was haunted and shunned it at night,
        place George Clemenceau. Once refreshed,   so it became a secret nocturnal meeting
        stroll up rue Victor Hugo for your first   place for persecuted early Christians.
        taste of Orange’s Roman heritage at the   Evening Visit the place du Forum to dine
        massive Arc de Triomphe.      at the Restaurant-Café Van Gogh, still
        Afternoon A la Maison (4 Place des   decorated as it was when it inspired the
        Cordeliers) is a pleasant spot for lunch,   artist to paint Café Terrace at Night in 1888.
        before exploring the Théatre Antique and
        tracing the city’s history at the Musée   Day 4
        d’Art et d’Histoire d’Orange.   Morning Start early to make your way to
        Evening For a sunset panorama, climb   Marseille (p528). After settling into your
        through the leafy park to the top of the   hotel, stroll along the Canebiere to find a
        Colline St-Eutrope. Finish your evening at   bistro where you can sip a glass of pastis,
        Le Parvis (55 Cours Pourtoules); the six-  the city’s signature aperitif.
        plate degustation menu is a revelation
        and surprisingly affordable.   Afternoon Spend a couple of hours at
                                      the Museé des Civilisations de l’Europe et
                                      de la Méditerrannée, then hop on a boat
        Day 2                         from the Vieux Port to Chateau d’If (p529),
        Morning By car, Chateauneuf-du-Pape   an island prison of literary legend.
        (p513) is just 15 minutes from Orange,    Evening Sample bouillabaisse, Marseille’s
        a drive that takes you through some of   ultimate traditional dish, at Michelin-
        France’s most revered vineyards.   starred L’Epuisette (Vallon des Auffes).
        Afternoon The ruins of a papal château,
        built in the 14th century, dominate the   Day 5
        village. After a ramble, visit the Caves du
        Verger des Papes (2 Rue Montée du Château)   Morning After a leisurely breakfast, head
        for a tasting session in cellars stocked with   north to Aix-en-Provence (p516). Upon
        hundreds of the region’s vintages.  arrival, stretch your legs with a stroll
                                      through the historic centre to visit L’Atelier
        Evening Dine on the terrace of Le Verger   de Cézanne. The artist’s studio is preserved
        des Papes in the grounds of the château,   as it was when he died in 1906. The Terrain
        with a fabulous view over the Rhône and   des Peintres is nearby, the vantage point
        a menu of dishes like Bigorre porc noir.  from which Cézanne often painted the
                                      summit of Montagne Ste-Victoire.
        Day 3                         Afternoon For art of a different kind, visit
        Morning After breakfast, head back to   Fondation Vasarely, where works by the
        Orange, where you can catch a short train   king of Op Art, Victor Vasarely (1908–97),
        to Arles (p498). First stop is Les Arenes,   are on show in a futuristic building.
        the 20,000-seat Roman theatre still used   Evening Dine along the elegant Cours
        for concerts and other events. Next, tour   Mirabeau at brasserie Les Deux Garcons
        the Cryptoportiques, a Roman-era labyrinth   (53 Cours Mirabeau), a one-time favourite
        carved 20 m (60 ft) beneath the city.   of Cézanne, Picasso and other artists.
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