Page 545 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - France
P. 545

The Niolo is Corsica’s only
                                               region to still farm live stock
                                               for its economic mainstay.
                                                 The main town, Calacuccia,
                                               is suitable for excursions
                                               to Monte Cinto. The nearby
                                               former ski resort of Haut Asco
                                               is best reached by the D147
                                               from Asco, but enthusiasts
                                               can walk from Calacuccia
                                               (8–9 hours). To the south is
                                               the forest of Valdu Niello.

                                               8
                                               Corte
                                               ! A6   ⌂ Haute-Corse   £ @
         Corte’s medieval citadel, housing a museum,   n La Citadelle; www.corte-
         perched on a vertigo-inducing rocky summit
                                               tourisme.com
                                               In the geographical centre of
       Castagniccia (literally “small   who live and work in mainland   Corsica, Corte was the chosen
       chestnut grove”), which most   France or Italy. It seems hard   capital of the independence
       Corsicans agree is the very   to believe that during the 17th   leader Pasquale Paoli from
       heart and kernel of the island.   century, when the great chest-  1755 to 1769, and today is the
       It was here that independence  nut forests intro duced here by   seat of the island’s university.
       leader Pasquale Paoli was born  the Genoese were at the height   In the Old Town is the 15th-
       in 1725, and where the revolts   of their production, this was   century citadel, housing the
       against Genoa and then France   the most prosperous and   Musée de la Corse relating
       began in earnest in 1729. Alas,   populated region in Corsica.  traditional Corsican life and
       many of the villages in this     The D71 from Ponte Leccia   anthropology.
       beautiful, remote area are all   (north of Corte) to the east     Corte, exactly halfway along
       but empty, their inhabitants   winds through Castagniccia,   the GR20, the legendary
       having joined the 800,000 or   and to see the region at   220-km (137-mile) trail from
       so Corsicans (almost three   leisure will take the best part   Calen zana to Conca, is the
       times the present population)   of a week. Stock up on essen-  best base for the nearby
                           tials first, as there is little in   mountains. Don’t miss the
                           the way of supplies en route.  Gorges de la Restonica, 12 km
                                               (7 miles) out of town via the
                                               D623. Above these beautiful
                           7                   gorges keen walkers can
                                               follow a well-marked climb to
                           The Niolo (Niolu)   snow-fed Lac de Melo (60–90
                                               minutes); or Lac de Capitello
                           ! A6   ⌂ Haute-Corse
                           @ Corte   n Rte de Cuccia,   30 minutes further, where
                           Calacuccia; www.office-  snow can still remain in
                           tourisme-niolu.com  early June.
                                                 South of Corte, the Forêt
                           The Niolo extends west from   de Vizzavona is crisscrossed
                           Corte to the Vergio pass and   by tumbling, trout-filled
                           the upper Golo basin, and to   streams and pleasant walk ing
                           the east as far as the Scala di   trails (notably the GR20).
                           Santa Regina. Corsica’s high-  A fine refuge from summer
                           est mountain, the 2,706-m   heat, it is also a good excuse
                           (8,878-ft) Monte Cinto is here,   to take the small-gauge train
                           and its big gest river, the Golo.  up from Ajaccio or Bastia.
                                               Musée de la Corse
                                               "'=   ⌂ La Citadelle
                           Boats tied up in lovely Porto   # Hours vary, check website
                           village, at the head of the   ¢ Public holidays   ∑ musee-
                           stunning Golfe de Porto  corse.com
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