Page 208 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Southwest USA & National Parks

206  NE W MEXIC O NOR THERN NE W MEXIC O  207

7 Northern Pueblos Tour Tips for Drivers Georgia O’Keeffe
One of the 20th century’s foremost artists, Georgia O’Keeffe
The fertile valley of the Rio Grande between Santa Fe Starting point: Tesuque Pueblo, (1887–1986) managed to achieve both critical and popular
and Taos is home to eight pueblos of the 19 Native north of Santa Fe on Hwy 84. acclaim for her paintings, which, either as studies of single
blooms or sun-washed landscapes of the
Length: 45 miles (72 km). Local
American pueblos in New Mexico. Although roads leading to pueblos are Southwest, are universally loved. Wisconsin-
geographically close, each pueblo has its own often dirt tracks, so allow extra born and raised, she studied art in Chicago
government and traditions, and many offer attractions time. Note: Visitors are welcome, and New York but fell in love with the light
to visitors. Nambe gives stunning views of the but must respect their laws and of New Mexico when her friend and patron,
Mabel Dodge Luhan, invited her to her home
etiquette (see p278–9). n Indian
surrounding mountains, mesas, and high desert. Pueblo Cultural Center (866) 855- in the area. O’Keeffe bought an old adobe
San Idelfonso is famous for its fine pottery, while 7902. ∑ indianpueblo.org in Abiquiu and there created the abstract
other villages produce handcrafted jewelry or rugs. paintings that brought the beauty of New
Mexico to national attention.
The adobe-and-timber façade of the
5 Santa Clara Pueblo 6 Puyé Cliff Dwellings Santuario de Chimayó
This small pueblo is known for Now deserted, this site contains Artist Georgia O’Keeffe
its artisans and their work. As over 700 rooms, complete with 8 Chimayó
in many pueblos, it contains a stone carvings, that were home
number of craft shops and small to Native peoples until 1500. Road map E3. * 3,200. n (505) became a place of healing Georgia O’Keeffe Museum (505)
studios, often run by the Native 351-9961. Church open: 9am–5pm pilgrimage. The chapel contains 946-1000 (see p198). The country
artisans themselves. 7 Ohkay Owingeh daily (to 6pm May–Sep).  a beautiful reredos surrounding around Abiquiu, with its red rocks,
∑ elsantuariodechimayo.us
Declared the first capital of New the crucifix and a tiny side-room mesas, and corrugated slopes, is
Mexico in 1598, and known until This village lies 25 miles (40 km) with a pit of “the holy dirt,” which now known as O’Keeffe Country
2005 as San Juan Pueblo, this
village is a center for the visual north of Santa Fe on the eastern visitors are allowed to take away. because it inspired so many of
arts and has an arts cooperative. flanks of the Rio Grande valley. Chimayó is also known for its her abstract landscape paintings.
Chimayó was settled by Spanish woven blankets and rugs, which A few miles north of town, the
Taos colonists in the 1700s on the site have been produced by the fascinating Ghost Ranch, a retreat
of an Indian pueblo famous for Ortega family for generations. established and now run by
having a healing natural spring. Their workshop is just off the Presbyterians, features two small
Alcalde The site of the spring is now junction with Hwy 76, while but fascinating museums, which
4 San Ildefonso occupied by the Santuario de farther along, Cordova and highlight local archaeology and
Pueblo Chimayó, built by a local Truchas villages are also known palaeontology. Several hiking
Occupied since landowner in 1813–16 after he for their fine craftwork. trails also start from the ranch.
1300, this pueblo experienced a vision telling him
is best known for to dig the foundations in earth E Ghost Ranch
its etched black Española blessed with healing powers. 9 Abiquiu HC77, Box 11, Abiquiu. Tel (575) 685-
pottery, the While digging here he found a 1000. Open Museums: 9am–5pm
proceeds of Cundiyo cross that once belonged to two Road map E3. * 500. Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun. &
which saved its martyred priests, and the church This small adobe village with its ∑ ghostranch.org
people from the sunlit dusty streets was the home
Depression of Nambe
the 1930s. Los Alamos of the Southwest’s most famous 0 Chama
artist, Georgia O’Keeffe, from 1946
Pojoaque until her death in 1986. Her village Road map E2. * 1,000. n 2372
home and studio can be toured
White Rio Grande only by reservation, and Hwy 17, (575) 756-2306; (800) 477-
0149. ∑ chamavalley.com
Rock bookings need to be
made in advance Founded during the 1880s silver-
with the mining boom, Chama’s high-
lights today include the
Cumbres and Toltec Scenic
Railroad. This narrow-gauge
Santa Fe
steam train makes a spectacular
64-mile (103-km) daily trip over
2 Pojoaque Pueblo 0 km the Cumbres Pass and through
The Poeh Museum here is an 10
excellent introduction to the 0 miles 10 the Toltec Gorge into Colorado,
pueblo way of life in these with views of the San Juan and
3 Nambe Pueblo small communities. Key Sangre de Cristo mountains.
Set in a beautiful fertile
valley, this village is 1 Tesuque Pueblo Tour route } Cumbres and Toltec Railroad
bordered by a lakeside The Tewa people here have Other road Hwy 17. Tel (575) 756-2151; 1 (888)
hiking trail with waterfall concentrated on farming and 286-2737. Open late May–mid-Oct:
views and a buffalo ranch. pottery-making for centuries. 7:30am–6pm daily. & 7
Dramatic red rock landscape near Abiquiu ∑ cumbrestoltec.com
For hotels and restaurants see pp241–2 and pp258–260
206-207_EW_SW_USA.indd 206 28/11/17 12:42 PM 206-207_EW_SW_USA.indd 207 28/11/17 12:42 PM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.6)
Date 12th July 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm