Page 86 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Southwest USA & National Parks
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84      ARIZ ONA                                                                                                    PHOENIX      85


       Exploring Metropolitan Phoenix                                                                                 strikingly original houses
                                                                                                                      designed in elegant, open-plan
       Phoenix is one of North America’s largest cities. In addition    house many of the city’s most                 style. Although noted for his
       to its urban population of 1.5 million, Phoenix has a   fashionable restaurants as well                        use of local materials such as
       burgeoning number of residents in its metropolitan area,   as bars, antiques stores, and art                   desert rocks and earth, he also
       totaling more than 4.5 million. The city fills the Salt River   galleries. In addition to the trendy           pioneered the use of pre-
                                               Scottsdale Quarter shopping
                                                                                                                      cast concrete (see p27).
       Valley, occupying more than 2,000 sq miles (5,180 sq km) of   and dining complex, there is the                   Today, Taliesin West is home
       the Sonoran Desert. It is famous for its winter temperatures    El Pedregal Festival Marketplace,              to the Frank Lloyd Wright
       of 60–70°F (16–21°C) and around 300 days of sunshine a year.   and Scottsdale Downtown with                    School of Architecture, where
       This makes Phoenix a popular destination with both tourists   its arts shopping district around                students live and work. There
       and winter residents, who are often referred to as “snowbirds”.  Main Street, Marshall Way,                    are a variety of tours that range
                                                                                                                      from one to three hours. Ninety-
                                               Old Town, and Fifth Avenue.
         Metropolitan Phoenix includes the city of Scottsdale,    Scottsdale is also the location                     minute tours begin every hour
       12 miles (19 km) northeast of Downtown. Replete with air-  for Phoenix’s most popular   Innovative design of the Cosanti Foundation gift shop  from 9am to 4pm.
       conditioned malls, designer stores, hotels, and restaurants,    shopping mall – Fashion                          Taleisin West is approached
       it is also a good base for visiting Taliesin West and Papago   Square – offering an array of   E The Cosanti Foundation  (100 km) north of Phoenix on   along a winding desert road.
       Park, and is famous for its world-class golf courses (see p268).   designer stores and excellent   6433 E. Doubletree Ranch Rd., Paradise   Interstate Highway 17. Arcosanti   The muted tones of the low-
                                                                              Valley. Tel (480) 948-6145. Open
       Tempe, 6 miles (10 km) east of Downtown, is home to Arizona   restaurants (see p264–5).  9am– 5pm Mon–Sat, 11am–5pm Sun.   is an educational housing project   lying buildings reflect Wright’s
                                                                                                                      enthusiasm for the desert
                                                                                                  that began in 1970 to test the
       State University, while Mesa has the Arizona Temple, a large           Closed public hols. & donation   “arcology concept” as a way to   setting. He was careful to
       Mormon church built in 1927.                                           requested. 7 ∑ arcosanti.org  reduce human impact on the   enhance, rather than dominate,
                                                                              In 1947, Italian architect Paolo   environment while improving   the landscape.
       Sights at a Glance  Key                                                Soleri (1919–2013) came to   quality of life. Residents live
       1 Taliesin West        Downtown Phoenix                                study at Taliesin West. Nine   and work in structures that   E Pueblo Grande Museum
       2 Scottsdale           Metropolitan Phoenix                            years later, he set up the Cosanti  combine work and leisure   and Archaeological Park
                                                                                                  space. Workshops, tours, and
                                                                              Foundation in Scottsdale to
                                                                                                                      4619 E. Washington St. Tel (602) 495-
       3 Cosanti Foundation      Interstate                                   further his investigations into   accommodations are available.  0900. Open 9am–4:45pm Tue–Sat.
       4 Camelback Mountain      Major highway                                what he termed “arcology”: a            Closed Sun, public hols. & 7
       5 Pueblo Grande Museum                                                 combination of architecture    E Taliesin West  ∑ pueblogrande.com
         and Archaeological Park      Highway                                 and ecology to create new   Cactus Rd. at Frank Lloyd    Located 5 miles (8 km) east
       6 Papago Park          Railroad                                        urban habitats (see p27).  Wright Blvd., Scottsdale. Tel (480)    of Downtown Phoenix, this
       7 Mystery Castle                                                         Today, the Cosanti site   627-5340. Open 9am–4pm daily.   museum displays an ancient
                                                                              consists of simple, low   Closed Easter, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.   Hohokam ruin, as well as many
                                                                              structures housing studios, a   & 7 8 ∑ franklloydwright.org  artifacts, including cooking
                     Flagstaff
                                  Tonto                                       gallery, and workshops. This is   Generally regarded as the   utensils and pottery. Many
        74                       National      Scottsdale’s elegant Fashion Square   where the workers make and   greatest American architect    pieces come from the adjacent
           Beardsley Canal   17  74  Forest    shopping mall                  sell their trademark windbells.   of all time, Frank Lloyd Wright   Archaeological Park, the site of
                  101    101           Verde   } Camelback Mountain           Self-guided walking tours are   (1867–1959) established the   a Hohokam settlement from the
         Surprise             McDowell Mountains                              available, but guided tours are   600-acre (240-ha) Taliesin West   8th to the 14th centuries. The
              Sun                              Scottsdale.                    by reservation only.  complex as a winter school for   site, originally excavated in 1887,
              City       Paradise
                Peoria    Valley       87      Named for its humped shape,      Visitors can also tour Soleri’s   his students in 1937. Wright   has a path through the ruins and
             60                                Camelback Mountain rises       main project, which lies 60 miles  came to prominence in Chicago   signs indicating the many
               Glendale       101              high above its suburban                            during the 1890s with a series of  irrigation canals once used by
                         51  Scottsdale  202
          10  101  Phoenix                 88  surroundings just 7 miles                                              the Hohokam to water crops.
                                Mesa  Apache   (11 km) northeast of Downtown
       Blythe                        Junction
           Avondale                            Phoenix. One of the city’s most
        Goodyear           Tempe               distinctive landmarks, the
        0 km  15         10     Gilbert  60    mountain is a granite and
                                87
        0 miles  15          Chandler          sandstone outcrop formed
                      Tucson                   by prehistoric volcanic forces.
                                               Camelback Mountain is best
       Scottsdale          who established Taliesin West   approached from the north via
       Founded in the late 19th   here in 1937. The area still   the marked turn off McDonald
       century, Scottsdale was named   attracts artists and designers,   Drive near the junction of Tatum
       after its developer, army chap-  but it is best known for its many   Boulevard. From the parking
       lain Winfield Scott (1837–1910),   golf courses – there are more than  lot, a well-marked path leads
       whose religious scruples   200 in and around Scottsdale.  to the summit, a steep climb
       helped keep the early settle-    At the center of the district,    that covers 1,300 ft (390 m) in
       ment free from saloons and   to either side of Scottsdale    the space of a mile.
       gambling. Scottsdale’s quiet,   Road between 2nd Street and     Camelback Mountain adjoins
       tree-lined streets and desert   Indian School Road, the streets   the Echo Canyon Recreation Area,
       setting attracted the famous   are lined with low, brightly   a lovely enclave with a choice of
       architect Frank Lloyd Wright,   painted adobe buildings, which   shady picnic sites.  Taliesin West façade, designed to blend with the desert landscape
       For keys to symbols see back flap                                                                        For hotels and restaurants see pp237–8 and pp249–51
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     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
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     Date 12th July 2013
     Size 125mm x 217mm
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