Page 48 - Travel Leisure - USA (February 2020)
P. 48
ew ea
Auckland
E X P E R I E N C E S Tongariro
National Park
Vineyards in
Martinborough,
a town in the North
Island’s Wairarapa
wine region.
Featherston
but deep in snow not much higher up. Lark-like pastries and discovering New Zealand
birds waltzed overhead. At first the trail crossed fiction while the orchard chimed
a lava field of bare red newly-born rock, on which with the call of what Felix nicknamed
plants have not had time to settle. Then we the glockenspiel bird. “Tui,” I said.
climbed up a steep volcanic formation known I had looked it up after my run on
as the Devil’s Staircase as a panorama unrolled our first morning; it’s native, an
below. The wind rose, the temperature fell, but iridescent honeyeater.
we were still in sunlight. “Rain is coming,” our In the neighboring town of
guide, Stewart Barclay, said. “Let’s get over the Martinborough, we rented bikes from
GETTING THERE top before it hits.” Green Jersey Explorer Tours (green
AND AROUND The first snowfield was dazzling, but as we jersey.co.nz) and cycled an easy six-
Air New Zealand
(airnewzealand.com) began our descent the rain did indeed hit, sideways mile trail around the vineyards. Rows
has regular nonstop and hard. Barclay picked up the pace, fast enough of vines and their shadows flickered
flights to Auckland for the weather to be almost exhilarating as the geometrically, realigning themselves
from Chicago,
path wound back below the snow line, zigzagged as we passed. Returning the bikes, we
Houston, San down turf hillside, and came at last to the shelter
Francisco, and Los happened upon the Martinborough
Angeles. The Northern of the silent trees. Sweet Shop (6 Kitchener St.; 64-2-198-
Explorer Train (great Powderhorn Chateau (powderhorn.co.nz; 7293), which offers tasting plates of
journeysofnz.co.nz) doubles from $260) was our lodging that night, locally made chocolates with citrus-
departs from Auckland an unpretentious but deeply comfortable hotel scented herb tea served in vintage
on Monday, Thursday,
and Saturday morn- in Ohakune, one of the national park’s gateway china. I tried to bargain with Felix for
ings. It’s a nearly six- towns. We stepped out of the rain into literal and his Pinot Noir dark ganache, and failed.
hour journey to metaphorical warmth, the staff being accustomed We celebrated Felix’s 13th birthday
Tongariro National
to hikers and skiers in urgent need of hot baths, with a trip to the Pukaha National
Park, and another five good food, and great beds. Felix’s shoes were so Wildlife Centre (pukaha.org.nz), in
hours to Wellington.
The Wairarapa wet he went to dinner in socks. We both ordered Mount Bruce, which holds some of
Connection (metlink. eccentrically and were given exactly what we the area’s last pristine native forest.
org.nz) is a commuter wanted, a pile of sprightly asparagus and a red- A nocturnal white kiwi bustled around
line that connects pepper soup with good bread for me; pork-belly its infrared-lit enclosure, exuding
Wellington to
sliders and a salad for him. We had planned to a ridiculous charm reminiscent of a
Featherston.
enjoy the heated pool after dinner, but Felix fell puffin. Our Maori guide, Everlyn
TRAVEL PLANNER asleep and I found my bed and book irresistible. Chase, told us her community’s stories
T+L A-List member and
After our train reached Wellington the about indigenous birds, who sang
New Zealand specialist following morning, we rented a car and drove back to her whistle.
Donna Thomas
(donna@ newzealand an hour to Featherston, a small town in the wine- There were farm stands selling
travel.org; 215-741- growing region of Wairarapa. The town has six strawberries and asparagus all along
5155) can curate secondhand bookshops, a fine artisanal baker, and the road back. One of the joys of this
itineraries in and a weekly produce market on the main street: Felix trip was stealing a second spring from
around Tongariro
reckoned all life’s needs were met. We sat in bright our northern winter, a second asparagus
National Park and the
Wairarapa area. sun under trees bearing ripe lemons, eating season, a second flowering.
44 T R AV E L + L E I S U R E | F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 0
