Page 352 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Rome

350  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Rock, Jazz, Folk, and World Music

Rome’s non-classical music scene is unpredictable and to see what is happening at
subject to vast seasonal changes, but there is a huge 28 Divino Jazz or Caruso – Café
variety of music to be enjoyed at the many clubs and de Orient. Some of Rome’s
stadiums, with visiting foreign and homegrown stars. smaller venues, like Charity
Summer months bring excellent outdoor rock, jazz, and Cafè, also showcase formid able
new talent.
world music festivals. If you want to mix music
The music sections of the listings magazine TrovaRoma with your meal, then try ’Gusto,
(see p346) gives a good idea of what is happening, a slick downtown pizzeria/
and ticket agencies at Orbis and Feltrinelli (see p347) will restaurant with live jazz
have details of the latest tours. For smaller venues, you performances on most nights.
might need to buy a tessera (monthly or annual member- If Creole cuisine is more to your
taste, then reserve a table in
ship card) costing anything from €2 to €11, which often advance at Alexanderplatz.
includes the entrance fee for smaller bands. Local names to look for
include pianist Antonello
Salis, who mingles jazz and
Rock Music
their teeth. Init is also worth Caribbean rhythms, and
Big-name rock concerts are checking out, as is ConTestaccio, respected soul-singer Fulvio
held in sports venues at whose live evenings focus on Tomaino. Other leading lights
the Palalottomatica and the emerging talent. on the blues scene are Roberto
legendary Stadio Olimpico, Discos often double as live Gatto and Maurizio Gianmarco,
though it is also a good idea music venues, too, so check frequent visitors at Big Mama.
to keep an eye on who is to see if there are any midweek The Roman summer abounds
performing at the Atlantico. surprises at the Piper club or with jazz. Check out who is
The centro sociale CSOA Ex Snia weekend concerts at the more performing in the gardens
Viscosa, on the edge of the alternative Brancaleone, a of Casa del Jazz or catch one
Pigneto district, is an alternative nightclub and arts venue where of the bigger acts out at the
space that puts on concerts and movies, theater performance, Ippodromo delle Cappanelle
other events, while the Parco and visual arts also feature on racetrack. Another important
della Musica also hosts top acts. the program. fixture is the yearly fall Roma
Entrance can cost above €25, Jazz Festival with big names
but there are plenty of from the Italian and inter-
opportunities for smaller Jazz national jazz scene visiting
budgets. If you are in Rome Rome’s taste for jazz has the Parco della Musica.
on May 1, join the crowds at developed over the years as a
the massive outdoor concert result of visits from American
that is usually held at Piazza and other foreign musicians. Folk Music
San Giovanni. Bands also play Miles Davis played one of his Since the sad demise of Rome’s
for free during the European last concerts here, and other historic Folkstudio, there is no
Festival of Music celebrations, jazz gurus such as Pat Metheny, single venue for folk aficionados
on and around June 21. For all Michael Brecker, Sonny Rollins, in the city, though those
mega-concerts, it is always a and Joe Zawinul’s Syndicate prepared to scour the listings
good idea to show up an hour were all frequent visitors. On no may uncover a country evening
or so before the act gets under account should aficionados miss at Four Green Fields.
way to be sure of a good place. a visit to the excellent Casa del Traditional Roman folk music
Not far from the Vatican, Jazz. Top musicians also play at has been more or less reduced
Fonclea is also worth Alexanderplatz and Trastevere’s to tourist-diluted serenades at
checking out. Big Mama club, one of the outdoor restaurants; besides,
One of the city’s most city’s legendary addresses for young locals tend to favor the
interesting venues is Forte important names. For over folk music of other regions and
Prenestino, a former prison 30 years it has been offering countries. Many bands from
taken over by squatters, and everything from trad R&B to various parts of Italy, such as
turned into a social center with progressive jazz and rock. It is Mau Mau and Agricantus, have
a characteristically alternative also worth checking out what’s found success by drawing on
feel. It now hosts rock concerts, up at Gregory’s, Boogie Club, regional rhythms and singing
debates, and art exhibitions. and Be Bop jazz and blues club. in dialect. Italians’ love of all
Meanwhile, Locanda Atlantide, Planet Roma is unique in things Irish also means that
with its low entrance fee and offering separate concert strains of the fiddle and drum
central location, is a place halls, and interesting festivals can be heard in many of the
where many up-and-coming featuring high-quality ensembles. Irish pubs dotted throughout
Roman bands and soloists cut Other wise, check local listings the city. If you have to choose

US_350-351_EW_Rome_US.indd 350 15/03/17 4:22 pm
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