Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - London
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HOW  T O   USE  THIS   GUIDE      7

       London at a Glance       48      INTRODUCING  L ONDON  L ONDON  A T  A  GLANCE      49
       Each map in this section   London’s Best: Churches  St Mary-le-Strand
                                                       Now on a traffic island, this ship-like church was built
                                                       by James Gibbs in 1714–17 to a lively Baroque design,
                                It is worth stopping to look at London’s churches and
                                going inside, if they are open. They have a special   and features high windows and a rich interior.
       concentrates on a specific theme:   atmosphere unmatched elsewhere in the city, and they
                                can often yield an intimate glimpse of the past. Many
                                churches have replaced earlier buildings in a steady
       Remarkable Londoners, Museums   succession going back to pre-Christian times. Some began   All Souls
                                life in outlying villages beyond London’s fortified centre,
                                and were absorbed into suburbs when the city expanded
                                           This plaque comes from
                                           a tomb in John Nash’s
       and Galleries, Churches, Parks and   in the 18th century. The memorials in the capital’s   Regency church of 1824.
                                churches and church yards are a fascinating record of
                                local life, liberally peppered with famous names. A more
                                detailed overview of London churches is on pages 50–51.
       Gardens and Ceremonies. Top   Inigo Jones’s Classical church   Bloomsbury  Smithfield and   St Mary Woolnoth
                                              and Fitzrovia
                                                            The jewel-like interior of Nicholas
                                   St Paul’s Covent Garden
                                                        Spitalfields
                                                            Hawksmoor’s small Baroque
                                         Regent’s Park
                                  was known as “the handsomest   and Marylebone  church (1716–27) appears larger
                                                            than the outside suggests.
       sights are shown on the map;                Holborn and
                                    barn in England”.
                                                   the Inns of
                                                    Court
                                              Soho and
       other sights are described on the      Square  Covent   The City
                                              Trafalgar
                                                 Garden
                                                 and the
                                                 Strand
       following two pages.
                                St Martin-in-the-Fields  Piccadilly, Mayfair  Southwark
                                James Gibbs’s church of   and
                                           and St James’s
                                1722–6 was originally   South Kensington   South   Bankside
                                thought “too gay” for   and Knightsbridge  R I V E R   T H A M E S  Bank  St Stephen Walbrook
                                Protestant worship.         Wren was at his best with this
                                                            domed interior of 1672–7. Its
                                              Whitehall     carvings include Henry Moore’s
                                              and    St Paul’s  austere modern altar.
       Each sightseeing area is               Westminster  cathedral is the world’s
                                                   At 110 m (360 ft) high,
                                                    the dome of Wren’s
       colour-coded.                   0 kilometres  0.5  1  second-largest after
                                       0 miles
                                                    St Peter’s in Rome.
                                     Westminster Cathedral
                                     The Italian-Byzantine Catholic
                                     cathedral’s red-and-white brick
                                     exterior conceals a rich interior
                                     of multicoloured marbles.
                                       Westminster Abbey
                                       The famous abbey has the    Temple Church  Southwark Cathedral
                                Brompton Oratory  most glorious medieval   Built in the 12th and 13th centuries    This largely 13th-century priory
                                This sumptuous Baroque   architecture in London, and   for the Knights Templar, this is one    church was not designated a
                                church is decorated with   highly impressive tombs    of the few circular churches to   cathedral until 1905. It has a
                                works by Italian artists.  and monuments.  survive in England.  fine medieval choir.
           78      L ONDON  AREA  B Y  AREA  WHITEHALL   AND  WESTMINSTER      79
                3 Jewel Tower   to Little Dean’s Yard, where the   World War I, stands in the middle   0 Churchill
                     monks’ living quarters used to   of Whitehall. On Remembrance  War Rooms
                Abingdon St SW1. Map 13 B5.    be. Dean’s Yard is private   Day every year – the Sunday   Practical Information
                Tel 020 7222 2219. 1 Westminster.   property. It belongs to the Dean   nearest 11 November – the   Clive Steps, King Charles St SW1.
                Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm daily; Oct   and Chapter of Westminster and   monarch and other dignitaries   Map 13 B5. Tel 020 7930 6961.
                10am–5pm daily; Nov–Mar:   1 Westminster, St James’s Park.   lists all the information you
                10am–4pm Sat & Sun. Closed 24 Dec–   is close to Westminster School,   place wreaths of red poppies on   Open 9:30am–6pm daily (last adm:
                1 Jan. & 7 ground floor only. =   whose former pupils include   the Cenotaph. This solemn   5pm). Closed 24–26 Dec, 1 Jan. &
                ∑ english-heritage.org.uk  poet John Dryden and playwright   ceremony, commemorating the   9 8 must book in advance 7    Telephones in the Map Room of the Cabinet   need to visit every sight,
                            1918 armistice, honours those
                     Ben Jonson. Its scholars are, by
                                 - = ∑ iwm.org.uk
                This and Westminster Hall (see   tradition, the first to   who have died while serving in   War Rooms
                p76) are the only remaining   acknowledge a new monarch.  the armed forces (see pp58–9).  This intriguing slice of 20th­
                vestiges of the old Palace of   century history is a warren of   complete with period furniture,   including a map reference
                Westminster. The tower was built   rooms below the Government   including Churchill’s desk,
                in 1365 as a stronghold for   6 St Margaret’s   Office building, where the War   communi cations equipment
                Edward III’s treasure and today   Church   Cabinet met during World War   and maps for plotting military   to the Street Finder at the
                houses a fascinating exhibition,   Parliament Sq SW1. Map 13 B5.   II, when German bombs were   strategy. The Churchill Museum
                “Parliament Past and Present”,   Tel 020 7654 4840. 1 Westminster.    falling on London. The War   is a multimedia exhibit recording
                which relates the history of   Open 9:30am–3:30pm Mon–Fri,   Rooms include living quarters   Churchill’s life and career, and a
                Parliament. The display on the   9:30am–1:30pm Sat, 2–4:30pm Sun.    for key ministers and military   permanent display, Undercover:   back of the book.
                upper floor is devoted to the   5 11am Sun. ^ 7 via North Door    leaders and a Cabinet Room,   Life in Churchhill’s Bunker,
                history of the tower itself.  ∑ westminster-abbey.org/  where many strategic decisions    features personal stories, objects
                  The tower served as the Weights   st-margarets-church  were taken. They are laid out as   and interviews with those who
                and Measures office from 1869   The Cenotaph  they were when the war ended,   worked in the War Rooms.
                until 1938 and another small   Overshadowed by the Abbey,
                display relates to that era.   this late 15th­century church
                Alongside are the remains of    has long been a favoured venue   9 Downing Street   some land near Whitehall Palace
                the moat and a medieval quay.  for political and society weddings,   SW1. Map 13 B4. 1 Westminster.   and built a street of houses.
                     such as Winston and Clementine   Closed to the public.  Four of these survive, though
                                 George II gave No. 10 to Sir
           The world’s most famous clock tower, which    4 Westminster   Churchill’s. Although much   Sir George Downing (1623–84)   they are much altered. King
                     restored, the church retains some
           houses Big Ben  Abbey   Tudor features, notably a stained­  spent part of his youth in the   Robert Walpole in 1732. Since
                     glass window commemorating   American colonies. He was    then it has been the official
           2 Big Ben   the marriage of King Henry VIII and   the second graduate from    residence of the prime minister
                See pp80–83.
           Bridge St SW1. Map 13 C5. 1 West­  5 Dean’s Yard   his first wife, Catherine of Aragon.  the nascent Harvard College   and contains offices as well as a
                            before returning to fight for the
                                 private apartment. In 1989, for
           minster. 8 Elizabeth Tower is under   Parliamentarians in the English   security reasons, iron gates were
           restoration until early 2020; tours are   Broad Sanctuary SW1. Map 13 B5.    7 Parliament   Civil War. In 1680, he bought   erected at the Whitehall end.
           suspended for the full duration.  1 Westminster. Buildings Closed to   Square
           Big Ben is not the name of the   the public.  SW1. Map 13 B5. 1 Westminster.  No. 12, the Whips’ Office,    Government policy is
                            is where political campaigns
                                 decided in the Cabinet Room
           world­famous four­faced clock in   An arch near the west door    are organized.  at No. 10.  The famous front door of No. 10
           the 96 m (315 ft) tower that rises   of the Abbey leads into this   Laid out in the 1868 to provide    Numbers refer to each
           above the Houses of Parliament,   secluded grassy square,   a more open aspect for the new
           but of the resonant 13.7­tonne   surrounded by a jumble of   Houses of Parliament, the square
           bell on which the hours are   buildings from many different   became Britain’s first official   sight’s position on the
           struck, thought to be named after   periods. A medieval house on   roundabout in 1926. Today it is
           the Chief Commissioner of Works    the east side has a distinctive   hemmed in by heavy traffic.
           Sir Benjamin Hall. Cast at White­  dormer window and backs on   Statues of statesmen and soldiers   Area Map and its place
           chapel in 1858, it was the second   are dominated by Winston
           giant bell made for the clock, the   Churchill in his greatcoat,
           first having become cracked   glowering at the House of
           during a test ringing. The clock is   Commons. On the north side,   in the chapter.
           the largest in Britain, its four dials   Abraham Lincoln stands in front
           7 m (23 ft) in diameter and the   of the mock­Gothic Middlesex
           minute hand 4.2 m (14 ft) long,   Guildhall, completed in 1913.
           made in hollow copper for light­
           ness. It has kept exact time for the   No. 11 is the Chancellor of the
           nation more or less contin uously   8 Cenotaph   Exchequer’s official residence.
           since it was first set in motion in   Whitehall SW1. Map 13 B4.
           May 1859, and has become a   1 Westminster.
           symbol of Britain the world over.
           The tower itself was renamed    This suitably bleak and pale   The prime minister
           the Elizabeth Tower in 2012 in   monument, completed in    No. 10 is the official home of the   entertains official
                             prime minister.
           honour of Queen Elizabeth II in   Entrance to the Abbey and cloisters from   1920 by Sir Edwin Lutyens to   guests in the State
           her Diamond Jubilee year.  Dean’s Yard  commemorate the dead of
                                        Dining Room.
          Detailed information on each sight
       3All the important sights in each area are described
         in depth in this section. They are listed in order,
         following the number ing on the
         Area Map. Practical information on   80      L ONDON  AREA  B Y  AREA  WHITEHALL   AND  WESTMINSTER      81
         opening hours, telephone numbers,   4 Westminster Abbey   VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
                                The Abbey is world-famous as the resting
                                                            Practical Information
         websites, admission charges and   place of Britain’s monarchs, and as the   Broad Sanctuary SW1.
                                setting for coronations and other great
                                                            Map 13 B5. Tel 020 7222 5152.
                                                            ∑ westminster-abbey.org
                                events, such as the marriage of Prince
                                                            Cloisters Open 9am–6pm daily.
         facilities available is given for each   William in 2011. Within its walls can be seen   North/Main Entrance  Abbey Open 9:30am–3:30pm
                                some of the most glorious examples of
                                                            Mon–Fri (to 6pm Wed), 9:30am–
                                medieval architecture in London. It also
                                                            3:30pm Sat (Sep–Apr: to 1:30pm
                                contains one of the most impressive   The stonework here,   . The Lady Chapel  Sat). Admission at the final
                                            such as this
                                                            entrance times given allow one
         sight. The key to the symbols used    collections of tombs and monuments in the   . Flying Buttresses  carving of a   The chapel, consecrated in   hour to explore. Closed for
                                world. Half national church, half national
                                        The massive flying
                                            dragon, is
                                                            special events; check website.
                                                   1516, has a superb vaulted
                                                    ceiling and choirstalls
                                            Victorian.
                                                            Museum Open 10:30am–4pm
                                museum, the Abbey is part of British
                                        buttresses help spread the
         can be found on the back flap.  national consciousness.  great weight of the 31-m   dating from 1512.  Mon–Sat. & Pyx Chamber Open
                                                            10am–4pm Mon–Sat. College
                                         (102-ft) high nave.
                                                            Garden Open Apr–Sep: 10am–
                                                            6pm Tue–Thu; Oct–Mar: 10am–
                                                            4pm Tue–Thu. Evensong: 5pm
                                                            Mon–Fri, 3pm Sat & Sun (May–
                                                            Aug: 5pm Sat). Queen’s Diamond
                                                            Jubilee Galleries Open due to
                                                            open 2018, check website ^ 7
                                                            limited. 8 9 - = Concerts.
                                                            Transport
                                                            1 St James’s Park, Westminster.
                                                            @ 3, 11, 12, 24, 29, 53, 70, 77,
                                                            87, 88, 109, 148, 159, 170, 211.
                                                            3 Victoria, Waterloo.
                                                            4 Westminster Pier.
         The Visitors’ Checklist    . West Front Towers
                                1745, were designed by
         provides the practical information   These towers, completed in
                                Nicholas Hawksmoor.
         you need to plan your visit.
                                 KEY
                                 1 The North Transept has three   . Chapter House
                                 chapels on the east side containing   This octagonal structure is worth
                                 some of the Abbey’s finest   seeing for its 13th-century tiles.
                                 monuments.
                                 2 St Edward’s Chapel houses
                                 Edward the Confessor’s shrine and   2011 Prince
         Stars indicate the most interesting   the tombs of other English medieval   1050 New Benedic-  Yevele begins   13th-century tile   1838 Queen   William and
                                                     1376 Henry
                                                               Catherine
                                                   tine abbey church
                                 monarchs.
                                                          from the Chapter
                                                   begun by Edward
                                                             Victoria’s
                                                               wedding
         architectural details of the building,   3 The South Transept contains   1000 the Confessor  1200 rebuilding the  nave  1400  1600 House  1800 coronation  2000 Middleton’s
                                 “Poets’ Corner”, where memorials to
                                 famous literary figures can be seen.
                                 4 Museum             1269 Body of Edward the
         and the most important works of   5 The Cloisters, built mainly in    . The Nave viewed from   begun to the designs   Confessor moved to new   1745 West towers   1953 Most recent
                                                   1245 New church
                                           the West End
                                                          completed
                                                      shrine in the Abbey
                                 the 13th and 14th centuries, link the
                                                             coronation in the
                                 Abbey church with the other   At 10 m (35 ft) wide, the nave   of Henry of Reyns  1540 Monastery   Abbey: Elizabeth II’s
                                                         dissolved
         art or exhibits on view inside.  buildings.  is comparatively narrow, but
                                           it is the highest in England.
                                  London’s major sights
                               4These are given two or more full pages in the sightseeing
         Major features of the sight are   area in which they are found. Historic buildings are dissected
         listed and described in a key.  to reveal their interiors; museums and galleries have colour-
                                 coded floorplans to help you find important exhibits.
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