Page 96 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - London
P. 96

94      L ONDON  AREA  B Y  AREA


                           1940, but it maintains its essen-
                           tial features from 1684 – the
                           tall, arched windows, thin spire
                           (a 1966 replica of the original)
                           and a light, dignified interior.
                           The ornate screen behind the
                           altar is one of the finest works of
                           the 17th-century master carver
                           Grinling Gibbons, who also
                           made the exquisite marble font,
                           with a scene depicting Adam
                           and Eve standing by the Tree of
                           Life. Artist and poet William Blake   Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child
                           and Prime Minister Pitt the Elder
                           were both baptized here. More   merchandise inspired by the
                           of Gibbons’ carvings can be seen   current exhibitions, as well as
                           above the grandiose organ,   a great range of art books.
       Alfred Gilbert’s statue of Eros takes aim   made for Whitehall Palace chapel     The RA is currently
       down Lower Regent Street  but installed here in 1691. The   undergoing redevelopment
                           church now has a full calendar   work, led by architect Sir David
       1 Piccadilly Circus   of events, and houses a popular   Chipperfield, in celebration of
                           café. A small market operates in   its 250th anniversary.
       W1. Map 13 A3. 1 Piccadilly Circus.
                           the outer courtyard.
       For years people have congreg-
       ated beneath the symbolic figure        4 Burlington
       of Eros, originally intended as an   3 Royal Academy   Arcade
       angel of mercy but renamed   of Arts
       after the Greek god of love.            Piccadilly W1. Map 12 F3. 1 Green
       Poised delicately with his bow,   Burlington House, Piccadilly W1.    Park, Piccadilly Circus.
       Eros has become almost a trade-  Map 12 F3. Tel 020 7300 8000.
       mark for the capital. It was erec-  1 Piccadilly Circus, Green Park.   This is one of four 19th-century
       ted in 1892 as a memorial to the    Open 10am–6pm Sun–Thu,   arcades of small shops that sell
                           10am–10pm Fri & Sat. Closed Good
       Earl of Shaftesbury, the Victorian   Fri, 24–26 Dec. & for temporary   traditional British luxuries. (The
       philanthropist. Part of Nash’s   exhibitions. ^ 7 8 0 - =   Princes and Piccadilly Arcades
       master plan for Regent Street,   ∑ royalacademy.org.uk  are on the south side of Piccadilly,
       Piccadilly Circus has been              while the Royal Opera Arcade
       considerably altered over the   The courtyard in front of Burling-  is off Pall Mall.) It was built for
       years and consists for the most   ton House, one of the West End’s   Lord Cavendish in 1819, who
       part of shops. The London   few surviving mansions from the   lived in Burlington House next
       Pavilion (1885), once a popular   early 18th century, is often   door, to stop rubbish being
       music hall, now houses Ripley’s   crammed with people waiting to   thrown into what was then his
       Believe It or Not! museum.   get into one of the prestigious   side garden. The arcade is still
       Piccadilly Circus has London’s   visiting art exhibitions on show   patrolled by beadles, who make
       gaudiest array of neon advert-  at the Royal Academy (founded   sure an atmosphere of refine-
       ising signs, marking the entrance   1768). Every summer, its famous   ment is maintained. They have
       to the city’s lively entertainment   annual exhibition, which has   authority to eject anyone who
       district with its cinemas, theatres,   now been held for over 200   sings, whistles, runs or opens an
       nightclubs, restaurants and pubs.  years, shows around 1,200 new   umbrella; those powers are
                           works. Any artist, established or   infrequently invoked now,
                           unknown, may submit work.  perhaps because the dictates
       2 St James’s Church    The airy Sackler Galleries (1991),   of commerce take precedence
                           designed by Sir Norman Foster,   over those of decorum.
       197 Piccadilly W1. Map 13 A3.    hold visiting exhibitions. There
       Tel 020 7734 4511. 1 Piccadilly Circus.
       Open 8am–7pm daily. Food market   are permanent items in the sculp-  5 Ritz Hotel
       11am–5pm Mon & Tue, craft mar ket   ture prom enade out side the
       10am–6pm Wed–Sat, antiques market   galleries, notably a Michelangelo   Piccadilly W1. Map 12 F3. Tel 020 7493
       10am–6pm Tue. 7 - Concerts,   relief of the Madonna and Child   8181. 1 Green Park. Open to non-
       talks, events. ∑ sjp.org.uk  (1505). The exceptional perm an-  residents for tea or restaurant (book
                           ent collect ion (not all on display)   ahead). 7 (See p288).
       Among the many churches Wren   includes one work by each   ∑ theritzlondon.com
       designed (see p51), this is said to   current and former Academician;
       be one of his favourites. It has   the high lights are displayed in the   César Ritz, the famed Swiss
       been altered over the years and   Madejski Rooms. Two shops   hotelier who inspired the
       was half-wrecked by a bomb in   adjacent to the gallery exits sell   adjec tive “ritzy”, had virtually




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