Page 67 - Metal Hammer Issue 334 - UK (May 2020)

TESTAMENT
Underside bring you
the sound of Silence
So if a band like us didn’t play I guess
it would all be a lot more local and
regional. They really need to have
established bands here, so that fans
go, ‘You know what? I wanna go to
Kathmandu too!’ Because this is
fucking cool, right? They’re really
making a great effort to do this.
I hear they’ve built 325 houses, and
that’s another reason why we just
said, ‘Let’s go!’”
hile Chuck sings Silence Festival’s
praises, we can hear the event
erupting in the background.
Although Testament are the only
internationally renowned band on
the bill, the organisers have pieced
together a stellar line-up of Asian
heaviness, ranging from Indian death
metal brutes Godless and Nepali
grindcore legends Chepang through
to Indonesian metal kings (and friends
of Hammer) Burgerkill and, of course,
Underside themselves.
Unfortunately, political unrest in
Assam, India, has resulted in a blanket
curfew and the band’s drummer,
Nishant Hagjer, is unable to make the
journey to join his comrades at the
festival. It all looks like being a huge
disappointment for the band that
started this whole event, not to
mention for the vast crowd of local
fans that they are expected to draw.
But after a couple of hours of frantic,
behind-the-scenes discussion,
a solution falls into the band’s lap;
Testament drummer Gene ‘The Atomic
Clock’ Hoglan has volunteered to learn
Underside’s set and is happy to fill in
for Nishant at what can only be
described as insanely short notice.
The day has been saved and the rest
GETTY of Underside are now wearing smiles
so broad they all look a bit mad. As
Silence Director/Underside manager Flower
chooses the best places to see in Kathmandu
PASHUPATINATH
TEMPLE
“The most holy place
for Hindu devotees
around the world,
and where they are
cremated. Families
mourn their loved
ones, while on the
other side of the
river, devotees
celebrate the joy
of being alive. You get to witness one of the best vibes that
reminds us to be kind and compassionate, and to take life easy,
as you see where it all ends. A stressful day is well cured by
spending time here with the monkeys around you, the voice
of the prayers, and watching someone’s last moment in the
Earth turning into smoke.”
frontman Avishek K.C. notes as he BOUDHA
rushes past, mere minutes before “It is one of the
his band takes the stage, “It’s Gene biggest stupa
– a Buddhist
fucking Hoglan!” commemorative
“That’s Gene!” Chuck laughs. “It’s monument – and
no problem for him. We’re happy to devotees start praying
as early as 4am. This
help out. You know, we’re really not place has a very
the most demanding band in the different positive vibe
world. We’re all pretty easy going. that has answers to
everyone’s sorrow. It’s
Someone like Rammstein, for best during dusk, while you sip coffee with all the meditation
example, their show is a lot more music and chants from the monks pleasing your ears.”
of a challenge to pull off. We just need DURBAR SQUARES
things to work, a PA system and some “Durbar square
lights, but as long as things work we translates as ‘Palace
are willing to make the trip, even square’, and they’re
to Kathmandu.” the plazas opposite
the old palaces that
It would be generous to say that belonged to the kings
Underside’s set with Gene Hoglan goes in their respective
off without a hitch, but it’s a triumph cities of Kathmandu,
Patan and Bhaktapur.
for the band and Silence Festival They’re full of life
nonetheless: one of those “Were you and people of all ages
there?” moments that Nepali metal gather to share local food and drink. Bells from the temples
create an ambient sound. It’s a typical Nepali vibe.”
fans will always cherish. As Avishek
tells us later in the day, they managed THAMEL
to get through their songs without “Thamel is actually
the tourist area, and
completely losing the plot and Gene so every street is
did a sterling job at such short notice, full of pubs, hostels
but “there were definitely a few and hotels. It’s
happening throughout
moments where no one knew what the day and is best
was going on!” Either way, the massive known for its
crowd that saw it certainly didn’t care. late-night events.
I prefer this place
At last, it’s time for Testament – for live music,
Chuck, Gene, guitarists Alex Skolnick gathering with my friends and having a proper a night out.”
and Eric Peterson and bassist Steve
Di Giorgio – to take the stage and give KIRTIPUR
“Kirtipur is one of the
the local metal community the biggest oldest settlements,
thrill of its story so far. From his just 20 minutes away
cheery opening, “How the fuck are from the city centre.
It’s well known for
you doing, Kathmandu?!” onwards, keeping its tradition
Chuck is clearly blown away by the alive; people here
response and he seems truly touched still wear traditional
dress, the houses
as the crowd chant his band’s name are traditional, and
in every available moment of quiet. everyone welcomes
From early classics like Into The Pit and you with a smile. It’s perfect for enjoying a proper traditional
meal with homemade rice wine.”
Disciples Of The Watch to more recent
rampages like More Than Meets The Eye,
METALHAMMER.COM 67