Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sweden

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

Sweden Area by Area SWEDEN AREA B Y AREA  129
Apart from Stockholm, Sweden EASTERN SVEALAND
The waterways of Lake Mälaren and the vast archipelago
has been divided into nine extending to the Baltic both divide and unite the provinces of
Uppland, Södermanland and Västmanland. This is a land of verdant
islands and glittering bays, splendid castles and little wooden
regions, each of which has a towns, and a cultural heritage that predates the Vikings. With
Stockholm at the centre, the region is home to one-third of
Sweden’s population.
separate chapter. The most This area was the cradle of ancient Svea, as Middle Ages, but the most important,
can be seen in the rock carvings, burial
such as Skokloster, are the result of the
interesting towns and places mounds and standing stones in the great wealth which flooded into the
shapes of ships that dot the landscape.
country after Sweden’s victories in the
various European wars of the 17th century
It was from the town of Birka on Lake
Mälaren and from Roslagen in Uppland (see pp41–3). Shipping brought further
to visit have been numbered that the Vikings headed east on prosperity to the region, with centres
plundering raids and trading missions
such as Arboga lying on the iron route
around Europe and beyond (see p37). between Bergslagen, Stockholm and
on a Regional Map. The centre of the ancient pagan Æsir cult the Uppland harbours. There are well-
preserved ironworks in all three provinces,
in Uppsala held out against Christianity
until the 12th century. Many beautiful,
including Engelsbergs Bruk, a UNESCO
small medieval churches testify to the World Heritage Site.
fact that Christianity finally dominated. The extensive archipelago straddles the
They are richly decorated with paintings coasts of Uppland and Södermanland,
depicting biblical scenes for the benefit and Lake Mälaren itself is so full of islands
of the local congregations. Uppsala itself that the archipelago appears to
Introduction The landscape, became a cathedral city and the seat of continue uninterrupted.
All the architectural sights and natural
the archbishop in 1273.
The many castles and fortresses which attractions of Eastern Svealand are best
1history and character of each guard the waterways are an eye-catching enjoyed at a slow pace by bicycle or
boat, or on foot.
sight. Several of these date back to the
region is described here, showing
how the area has developed over
the centuries and what it offers to
the visitor today.
252  SWEDEN AREA B Y AREA SOUTHERN NORRLAND  253 The flat skerries of the outer archipelago
Traditional houses and church in Mariefred, on Lake Malaren
Exploring Southern Norrland
In this region of immense contrasts, the coastal provinces of
Gästrikland and Hälsingland are home to a colourful rural Storjorm
culture enlivened with traditional folk music and dancing. Kvarnbergsvattnet
The High Coast, with its dramatic island archipelago Gäddede
accessible by bridges and ferries, is Ångermanland’s
contribution to UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites. Fågelberget Each area of Sweden can be
Inland, the mountainous provinces of Jämtland and
Härjedalen offer wide open spaces for skiing and hiking. Hoting Nämforsen Falls and one of Europe’s largest rock
One of the best ways to experience Norrland’s varied Flåsjon Åsele carving sites (see p259) quickly identified by its colour
landscape is to start from the coast and follow one of Dragan Rossön Hälla
the river valleys which cut across the country. As the Sösjöfjällen 1246m
roads wind up-river, they pass through dense Strömsund Solberg coding, shown on the inside
forests and on up into the mountains. Junsele Långviksmon Umeå
Lillholmsjö Seltjärn
Kallsjön Hammerdal front cover.
Tännforsen Åreskutan JÄMTLAND ÅNGERMANLAND
Trondheim 1420m Häggenås Ramsele Nämforsen Gottne
Järpen
ÅRE Krokom Skorped ÖRNSKÖLDSVIK
STORLIEN Handöl Storsjön Å D A L E N Köpmanholmen
Sollefteå 0 kilometres 50
ÖSTERSUND Hammarstrand Döda Fallet Docksta 0 miles 30
Brunflo Kälarne Bispgården Nordingrå
Helagsfjället Myrviken T HE HIGH COAST
1797m Kramfors
Högakustenbron Regional Map This shows the
Røros Mittådalen Ljungan Svenstavik Bräcke Liden HÄRNÖSAND
INDALSÄ LV E N
MOUNTAINS
THE HÄRJEDALEN
The heather and rushing streams of Helag, with the Funäsdalen Ånge Fränsta MEDELPAD Bergeforsen 2road network and gives an
mountain of Helagsfjället in the distance Tännäs Vemdalen Rätan Alby Stödesjön Timrå
Rogen Hede LJUNGADALEN SUNDSVALL
Getting Around HÄRJEDALEN illustrated overview of the whole
The E4 along the coast and the E14 Lofsdalen Duvberg Ytterhogdal Ramsjö Hassela Galtström
from Sundsvall across the country to Gnarp
Trondheim in Norway are the main SVEG
arteries for motorists. The inland roads Lassekrog region. All interesting places to
running north-south are of a generally Delsbo
good standard. The roads east-west tend to Lillhärdal LJUSDAL
follow the courses of the rivers. The main HUDIKSVALL
railway line runs north-south. Along the Lillhamra Järvsö visit are numbered and there are
coast, the railway goes as far north as Iggesund
Härnösand before heading inland. The HÄLSINGLAND Enånger
Jämtland mountains can be reached by Mora Voxna Arbrå Boathouses in Norrfällsviken on the High Coast in Ångermanland
train, but in Härjedalen transport is by car Alfta SÖDERHAMN (see pp260–61) also useful tips on getting around
or bus. The Inlandsbanan railway operates BOLLNÄS
in summer. Air travel is an option and the Ljusne
range of domestic flights is good.
Lingbo Sights at a Glance the region by car and train.
1 Dalälven Delta w Örnsköldsvik
Norrsundet 2 Gävle e The High Coast
Key Ockelbo 3 Sandviken pp260–61
Motorway GÄSTRIKLAND 4 Söderhamn r Indalsälven
Major road GÄVLE 5 Bollnäs t Östersund
Minor road SANDVIKEN 6 Hudiksvall y Åre
Storsjön
Main railway Hofors Älvkarleby 7 Ljusdal u Storlien
8 Ljungadalen
i The Härjedalen
Minor railway DALÄLVEN DELTA 9 Sundsvall Mountains pp264–5
International border A wooden mansion in Arbro, Hälsingland, typical of the area’s Uppsala 0 Härnösand o Sveg
Summit traditional architecture Avesta Gysinge
q Ådalen  SWEDEN AREA B Y AREA EASTERN SVEALAND  133
132
For additional map symbols see back flap
3 Öregrund 5 Norrtälje 6 Skokloster
Uppland. * 1,600. @ 639 from Uppland. * 17,000. @ 676 from Uppland. Tel 08-402 30 60. £ SL train
Stockholm. n Jun–Aug: Harbour 0176-719 90.  _ Norrtälje Jazz from Stockholm to Bålsta, then bus
Stockholm. n Danskes Gränd 4,
Office 0173–305 55; all year round: Festival (late Jun/early Jul). 894. 4 from Sigtuna. Open May:
Östhammar Tourist Office, Rådhusgatan ∑ norrtalje.se 11am–4pm Sat & Sun; Jun–Aug:
6, Östhammar, 0173–178 50.  11am–5pm daily. & 8 - =
_ Östhammar Music Festival (early
Jul), Roslagsloppet speedboat race An idyllic town, built of wood, One of the best preserved
(late Jul/early Aug). ∑ roslagen.se Norrtälje is the natural hub of Baroque castles in Europe,
Roslagen, the area which covers Skokloster, on Lake Mälaren,
Detailed information All the The twin towns of Öregrund Albert Engström’s studio on the granite large parts of the Uppland coast. contains a unique collection of
furniture, art, weapons, textiles
Norrtälje received its town
and Östhammar are closely
linked geographically and
charter from Gustav II Adolf in
and books. Construction was
commander Carl Gustav
armaments factory was
3important towns and other places to Österbybruk’s English gardens with estate offices and clock tower historically. At the end of the cliffs outside Grisslehamn 1622, when an important started in 1654 for army
15th century, the citizens of
4 Grisslehamn
Östhammar founded Öregrund
Wrangel, who accumulated
established here. In the second
1 Österbybruk
incredible treasures during
in which Mårten Triewald
half of the 19th century, the
in order to obtain a better
built Sweden’s first steam harbour. Seafaring and iron- Uppland. * 4,700. @ 637 from town became a seaside resort, the Thirty Years War (1618–48).
Norrtälje. n Engströmsgården 0175-
visit are described individually. They Ånghammaren 0295-214 92. @ 817, engine in 1726. exporting became vital to the 331 02.  _ Postrodden boat race not least due to the health- This magnificent building was
Uppland. * 2,200. n 1 Jun–31 Aug:
town. In 1719, Öregrund was
giving properties of the mud
a way for Wrangel to show off
to Åland (Jun).
823 from Uppsala. & - 0
found in Norrtälje Bay.
Vallonsmedjan: Open Jun–Aug: daily. P Dannemora Gruva burned by the Russians, but the The choppy Åland Sea constantly Thousands of summer his success, but he only
wooden buildings were rebuilt
ever lived here for a
2 km (1 mile) west of Österbybruk.
8 by appointment, 0295-200 72.
are listed in order, following the Liljeforsateljén: Open May–mid-Jun, Tel 0295-214 92. Open Jun–Sep: daily. according to a town plan from batters the red granite cliffs of residents from Stockholm still few weeks. Time
seems to have
8 -
northern Väddö at Grisslehamn.
head for Norrtälje. The town
1744. The Town Hall is from
mid-Aug–Sep: noon–4pm Sat & Sun;
mid-Jun–mid-Aug: noon–5pm daily. 1829. At the end of the 19th This is the closest point in centre and the buildings along at the castle:
stood still
numbering on the Regional Map. before Midsummer), Fire Festival (2nd 2 Forsmarks Bruk a seaside resort and continues reason for the town’s existence. river retain their the Banquet
Sweden to Finland and the
century, the sleepy area became
_ Hurdy-Gurdy Festival (weekend
the Norrtäljeån
Today’s ferry crossing to Eckerö
18th-century
Hall, for
to attract visitors to this day.
weekend Aug).
Uppland. @ 826, 832, 851 from
Uppsala. n next to Brukscaféet, The Öregrund and takes only two hours, but things features. The church example,
remains
Within each town or city, there is Iron played a key role in the Jun–Aug: 0173-500 15. Open 10am– Östhammar region is home were much tougher in the 17th was built in 1726 Viking ship in Norrtälje incomplete, with
and 18th centuries when this
and the Town Hall dates
to many well-preserved old
region and nowhere is this more
4.30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–3pm Sat &
apparent than at Österbybruk.
all the tools lying
ironworking communities,
was the main link with the
from 1792. Attractions
Sun. 8 mid-Jun–mid-Aug: 10am
It is the area’s oldest ironworks,
include Roslagsmuseet
including Harg and Gimo.
where the
eastern outposts of the Swedish
(call to book). - 0 = 7
detailed information on important dating back to the 15th century, The historic ironworks of Built in 1763–70, Gimo Manor empire. Until 1876, the post was in the old armaments The most sumptuous rooms are
craftsmen left them.
but things only really took
factory, focusing on seafaring
rowed across the water by local
was the first in Sweden to be
the armoury and library.
and coastal life. Pythagoras is
fishermen in open boats. To
off when Dutchman Louis de
Forsmarks Bruk retains its well-
designed in Gustavian style
Geer bought the foundry in preserved streets with their by Jean Eric Rehn. commemorate the “post rowers”, an unusual museum in a former Next to the castle is Sweden’s
buildings and other sights. 1643. With the help of migrant beautiful, whitewashed rows Outside Gimo lies a race is held across the Åland diesel engine factory and one second oldest brick church.
of houses and a manor house
Sea every year in similar boats.
Skäfthammars Kyrka, a
Walloon blacksmiths, he
Built in the 13th century for
of Sweden’s best preserved
developed the iron industry
still contains a 13th-century
renowned for its lectern, which
set in English-style gardens.
so crucial to Sweden’s position built in 1767–74. The manor is medieval church particularly Today, apart from those industrial relics. nuns of the Cistercian order, it
making the ferry crossing,
as a great power. The nuclear power station of was built for the Gimo smiths. the sleepy fishing port of E Roslagsmuseet triumphal cross. In the 17th
As the world’s only fully Forsmarks Kärnkraftverk lies Grisslehamn attracts Väddö’s Hantverkargatan 23. Tel 0176-576 30. century, it became the Wrangel
preserved Walloon forge, the on the coast, 3 km (2 miles) from R Skäfthammars Kyrka many holidaymakers. Delicious Closed for renovations until 2014. 7 family church. The churchyard
15th-century Vallonsmedjan the ironworks. It provides one- Gimo, 16 km (10 miles) southeast of fresh fish can be bought from E Pythagoras contains several runestones,
uses puppets, sound and light seventh of Sweden’s electricity. Östhammar. Tel 0173-404 27. the red sheds on the Verkstadsgatan 6. Tel 0176-100 50. some of which are signed by the
to recreate life in the hammer Guided tours include such Open call for info. harbourside. Open mid-Jun–mid-Aug: daily. Viking rune master, Fot, who was
mills. Around it are charming features as the vast biotest lake In 1902, painter and writer & 8 - active in the mid-11th century.
18th- and 19th-century streets. where the environmental impact Albert Engström (d. 1940) moved
The 18th-century manor of the cooling water is studied. to Grisslehamn. He became
house was home to wildlife Louis de Geer’s Walloon much loved for his priceless
painter Bruno Liljefors in the ironworks empire also characters such as the tramp,
early 20th century. In summer, included the impressively Kolingen, and the Roslagen
his popular animal paintings preserved Lövstabruk. figure, Österman. The Albert
are exhibited in Liljeforsateljén Engströmsmuseet, a
278  SWEDEN AREA B Y AREA in the gardens. E Forsmarks Kärnkraftverk reconstruction of his home
NOR THERN NORRLAND  279
Dannemora Gruva was 3 km (2 miles) north of Forsmark. n containing Engström’s art and
memorabilia, was moved to
the mine on which local
0173-812 68. Open Mon–Fri. 8 mid-
i The Kungsleden Trail ironworking was built. VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Augustberg in 2006.
May–mid-Aug: tours from Forsmarks
Riksgränsen
Bruk; other times by appointment. 7
Gaping opencast pits such
The best way to experience the magnificence of the Swedish Låktajåkka Abisko T o r n e t r ä s k is the last Practical Information P Lövstabruk E Albert Engströmsmuseet
as Storrymningen are relics
station on the
16 km (10 miles) north from Forsmark.
of an industry that has gone
Augustberg. Tel 0175-331 02.
mountains is to hike along a few stages of the Kungsleden Kärsavagge Malmbanan line Lappland. E12 to Hemavan, E10 Öregrund Church’s shingle-clad, Open late Jun–Aug; rest of year by
n summer: 0173-500 15. Open
on here since the Middle Ages.
Trail. In 1900, the Swedish tourism organisation, Svenska Abiskojaure and a skier’s to Kiruna and Abisko. n Kiruna free-standing bell tower (1719) appointment only. & 8 - The Baroque Skokloster Castle, beautifully situated on Lake Mälaren
Above the mine is the building
Tourist Office, 0980-188 80,
summer: daily (manor). 8 - 0 7
Turistföreningen (STF), drew up plans for a network of Unna Allakas lifts often Abisko Tourist Station, 0980-402
paradise with
marked walking trails and huts for overnight stays through For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp284–289 and pp294–301
00, Tärnaby Tourist Office, 0954-
operating until
the mountains from Lappland south to Grövelsjön lake in Alesjaure as late as 104 50. 8 guided tours in some
Dalarna. Today, the 440-km (275-mile) long stretch between Tjäktja Midsummer.
parts. ∑ stfturist.se
Abisko mountain station on the Malmbanan railway line in Nallo Vistas Transport
~ Storuman or Kiruna, then bus.
the north and Hemavan in southern Lappland forms the Sälka £ to Kiruna and Abisko. @
Kungsleden Trail. The simple huts have given way to Mountain walkers on the Hukejaure Tarfala
mountain stations and rest cabins which offer hikers shelter well-marked Kungsleden Trail Singi Kebnekaise Nikkaluokta
in bad weather and overnight accommodation. Some also Situsjaure
have a ferry service to help people on their way. Kaitumjaure
Padjelanta Vaisaluokta Ritsem Stora For all the top sights, a Visitors’ Checklist
National Park National Park Teusajaure
Sjöfallets
Akka A k k a - j a u r e
Kutjaure
Vakkotavare provides the practical information you
Kisuris
Låddejåkkå Sjöfallsstugan
Arasluokta Saltoluokta will need to plan your visit.
Sarek
Staloluokta National Park Abisko
Tuottar Sitojaure Nikkaluokta is the end of the Thanks to the E10 and its own
Staddajåkkå road. It is a 19-km (12-mile) train station, the STF tourist
Sårjåsjaure walk to the STF mountain facility at Torneträsk in Abisko
Tarraluoppal station at Kebnekaise; 7 km national park is a natural starting
(4 miles) can be cut by
Såmmarlappa point for mountain walkers.
Sarek Vaimok Aktse catching the lake ferry.
Perhaps the most spectacular of Sweden’s national parks, Sarek has Tarrekaise Pårte Story boxes highlight noteworthy
200 lofty peaks, more than 100 glaciers, wild waterfalls and valleys Pieskehaure Njunjes
such as Rapadalen. It is home to elk, lynx and wolverine. Kvikkjokk
Kebnekaise
Ammarnäs S a g g a t Topping the Kebnekaise features of the top sights.
The village is located in the massif is Sweden’s highest
Vindelfjällen nature reserve, peak at 2,016 m (6,614 ft).
created in 1976 and known Below the summit, the STF
for its fauna. Its 200 station in Ladtjodalen, 690 m
inhabitants mostly live (2,264 ft), is a good starting
off tourism and point for tackling the range.
reindeer herding.
Vuonatjviken Sweden’s top sights These are given
Laponia World Heritage Site
Jäkkvik The mountainous region of Lappland was designated a UNESCO
Pieljekaise World Heritage Site in 1996. Laponia has been home to the Sami
Hemavan is the final point Bäverholmen Adolfström since prehistoric times and provides 4two or more full pages. Historic buildings
for the Kungsleden Trail’s Dalovardo the ideal conditions for their
northern section. With the Sjnjultle traditional nomadic reindeer
ski town of Tärnaby close by, Vitnjul herding, governed by the seasons.
it is a mecca for alpine skiers. Rävfallsstugan It is also Europe’s largest single are dissected to reveal their interiors. The
Skidbäcksstugan wilderness area, home to brown
Key Ö v e r - U m a n bears and alpine flora, as well as
factors contributed to its inclusion
Kungsleden Trail Tärnasjö being geologically important. These most interesting towns or city centres are
Other walking trails Viterskalet Serve Ammarnäs Stora Sjöfallet on unesco’s list. The region includes
Syter Aigert
Major road This area is impressive for the the four national parks Padjelanta,
mountains and glaciers of
Sarek, Stora Sjöfallet and Muddus,
Minor road Hemavan Akka and the primeval pine as well as the wetlands of Sjaunja
Railway line 0 kilometres 30 forests, but the waterfall is dry with their rich birdlife. Sjaunja National Park’s extensive wetlands shown in a bird’s eye view, with sights
Mountain stations and cabins Tärnaby 0 miles 20 due to hydro-electric schemes.
picked out and described.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp284–289 and pp294–301
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