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               134           B EL G IUM  A N D  LUXEM BO UR G


                   BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURG
                    ELGIUM AND ITS dimin-            Simple soup can turn out to
                    utive neighbour have             be a ‘relay race’ of several
               B much in common:                     different flavours; a humble
               they fall naturally into the           espresso may be elaborated
               same section. Many of their old        with a side order of
               castles and  pretty half-timbered      whipped   cream   and
               mansions  have  been converted           pralines. If the eating
               into luxury hotels, and everywhere      gets too much, you could
               you will find an emphasis on food.    try resting  your liver at a
               Some  hotels  do two rounds of ‘thermal centre’, such as one of those
               breakfast (the second starting at found in the Belgian town of Spa –
               11am). Expect generous portions. parent of ‘health farms’ worldwide.
                                                             treatments don’t
                                                             appeal, then make
                                                             your way to Namur,
                                                             the gastronomic
                                                             capital of Belgium.
                                                             Luxembourg
                                                             Luxembourg has two
                                                             aspects: the hilly
                                                             Ardennes in the north
                                                             and the farmland of
                                                             the south – called the
                                                             Bon Pays or Gutland
                                                             (Good Land). The
                                                             Grand Duchy
                                                             (population about
                                                             400,000) has its own
                                                             steel industry which
               Shamrock, Maarkedal, page 141, great food and landscaped gardens  is concentrated in the
                                                             southwest. The rest of
               BELGIUM AND LUXEMBOURGLL  Some wonderful places to  the country is covered in
               R R
               REGION BY REGIONRR   stay here include a town-  vineyards, particularly the
                                    house hotel dating from the  slopes on either side of the
                 ELGIUM DIVIDES neatly into   16th century, and an Art   Moselle river.
               B B Bnorth and south, along the  Deco villa. In Flanders, to the
               so-called ‘language divide’  southwest, there’s the chance  HIGHLIGHTS
               (see below), formalised  to stay in a couple of quay-
               constitutionally in 1962. In the  side hotels in Bruges, and  HEPLACES to stay illustrated
               southeastern corner, on the  visit Ghent, with its artistic  Ton these introductory
               border with Germany, is the  and architectural treasures.   pages are by no means the
               999-sq mile (2,600 sq km)                only highlights of this section.
               Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.   The South   Other favourites include: Le
                                    The Walloon south begins at  Val d’Amblève at Stavelot
               The North            the province of Hainaut. To  (page 141), a half-timbered
               The Flemish north and the  the east are the Ardennes, an  house in the Liège countryside,
               Walloon south of Belgium  area of thickly forested hills  combining understated but
               have different languages,  which also spill over into  smart decoration with great
               communities and indeed  Luxembourg and northeast-  food; and De Witte Lelie in
               administrations. The capital,  ern France. Whereas the  Antwerp (page 138), three
               Brussels, is on the dividing  French Ardennes are indust-  16th-century houses knocked
               line separating the two. In the  rialised, the Belgian Ardennes  together to make an unusual
               north are the provinces of  are largely unspoilt, and some  B&B hotel – grand and spac-
               West and East Flanders,  of the region’s most beautiful  ious, with high ceilings, but an
               Antwerp, Limburg and the  hill-top castles have been  informal atmosphere.
               upper reaches of Brabant.  converted into hotels. The
               The region is flat and very  Ardennes town of Spa was  FOOD AND DRINK
               similar to Holland. Antwerp  noted in Roman times by
               mixes sleaze and wealth in  Pliny the Elder as a health  ELGIANS ARE keen to point
               equal measure, is Europe’s  resort, and there are some  B B Bout that their country con-
               second largest port and centre  interesting places to stay in  tains more Michelin-starred
               of the world diamond trade.  and around the town. If the  restaurants than France. Dishes
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