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               Pyrenees at Biarritz, make  spectacular where the Lot,  follow. For peace, quiet and
               up the final section of  Aveyron and Tarn leave the  simple but delicious food,
               France’s Atlantic coastline.  Aubrac mountains through  you could do far worse than
               Mile upon mile of sandy  rugged gorges.   the Auberge de l’Aiguebrun
               beaches are backed by  To the east lies the Rhône  near Bonnieux (page 249).
               dunes and pine forests. The  Valley and beyond are the  Champagne buffs will
               Romans left their imperial  French Alps with some  gravitate to the Château des
               mark here – the great arch  traditional chalet hotels.   Crayères in Reims (page
               of Germanicus and the  Provence is nowadays  235), or to the Château de
               amphitheatre at Saintes are  almost too familiar to need  Courcelles (page 228), where
               both worth a detour.   much description. The salt-  the cellars house outstand-
                Medieval pilgrims   marshes of the Camargue  ing champagnes. Those
               travelling to the shrine of   and the resorts of the Côte  who navigate principally by
               St James at Santiago de  d’Azur have, as a back-drop,  menu are unlikely to pass
               Compostela left a legacy of  a highly-coloured and  up a chance to stay at Jean-
               Romanesque churches such  scented hinterland, where  Marc Reynaud’s eponymous
               as those at Poitiers and  the Romans who built the  restaurant at Tain l’Hermitage
               Parthenay. The vineyards of  theatre (still in use) at  (page 246) or at Alain
               Bordeaux have kept the city  Vaison-la-Romaine may well  Ducasse’s La Bastide de
               prosperous for centuries.  have found Bronze Age  Moustiers (page 257). Those
               A number of the château  remains. Hotels have found  who crave a beach will take
               hotels in this region, (such  their way into mas – the  a close look at the well-
               as the one at Pauillac, page  Provençal farmhouses – and  priced and child-friendly
               258), run their own wine  into villas originally built for  Ti Al-Lannec at Trébeurden
               appreciation courses.   private pleasure.  (page 237). Mountain air
                To the east lie the green,              and a stunning view of Mont
               rolling hills, farms and  HIGHLIGHTS     Blanc are both on offer at
               manors of the Dordogne                   the Auberge du Bois Prin’s
               Valley and the caves and  HEHOTELS ILLUSTRATED on  classic chalet at Chamonix
               culinary delights of Périgord. Tthese introductory pages  (page 240). Further south
               The cave paintings at  are just a taste of what you  there are more panoramic
               Lascaux are probably the  will find in the listings that  views from the beautifully
               most important in France –
               but if you prefer foie gras,
               walnuts and truffles, try
               Sarlat’s fabulous Saturday
               market. In the far south-
               west, the French Pyrenees
               take you into Basque
               country, offering spectacular
               scenery – and mountain
               activities as tiring or thrilling
               as anybody could want.
               Returning to your Basque
               inn, or perhaps to the
               Hôtel de la Reine Sancie at
               Sauveterre-de-Béarn (page
               263), with its spectacular
               position on medieval arches
               above the Gave d’Oloron
               river, will make you glad
               you survived the day intact.
                Languedoc-Roussillon is
               squeezed in between the
               Mediterranean shore and
               the Massif Central range.
               Roussillon was Spanish
               until 1659, and the Fort de
               Salses still stands at the old
               border. Carcassonne is an
               amazingly well-restored
               medieval town and Nîmes
               still has much of the Roman
               about it.
                The Massif Central is an
               enigmatic area, wild and
               hard on the Grands Causses,
               gentle in the Limousin and  The Paris Ritz, page 234, opulence on a lavish scale
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