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               26                        S WE D E N


                                     SWEDEN
                  WEDEN IS traditionally regarded   mountain  lodges, medieval inns
                   as an expensive country to      and 18th-century manor
               Svisit, but recent changes in       houses. They can provide
               exchange rates means it is           excellent  accommodation in
               presently more affordable than     beautiful surroundings. Many of
               usual. For many tourists         the best  places are members of
               visiting  for the  first time, it  two hotel marketing organisations:
               may come as a surprise that        the Countryside Hotels and the
               the country  has so many          Historiska Hotell groups. In
               beautiful hotels. Often these    Stockholm – which was European
               have  been converted from       City of Culture in 1999 – we also
               historic buildings such as castles,  have some exceptional entries.
                                                             they offer walking,
                                                             windsurfing, fishing
                                                             and boating; in
                                                             winter, cross-country
                                                             skiing. The winter
                                                             months, especially
                                                             around Christmas, are
                                                             a sensible time for
                                                             breaks if you can put
                                                             up with the short
                                                             days, as are May and
                                                             September, because
                                                             there are fewer
                                                             mosquitoes than in
                                                             July and August.
                                                             Far North
                                                             The tundra and forest
                                                             of the far north,
                                                             above the Arctic
                                                             Circle, is the home of
               Gripsholms Värdshus, page 33, Mariefred’s delightful old inn   the nomadic Sami people. In
                                                        June and July it never
               SWEDEN REGION        medieval and Beaux-Arts  properly gets dark. Here
               BY REGION            architecture, and its reputation  hotels are few and far
                                    for open-mindedness is well  between; among them is the
                 WEDEN CAN be divided   founded. There are woods  ultimate one-off hotel, the Ice
               Sinto five regions: south,  and water on its doorstep and  Hotel near Kiruna, which
               southwest, central, north   an archipelago of islands a  operates in winter, carved
               and far north.       ferry ride away.    each year out of ice. In fact,
                                                        it’s more comfortable than
               South and Southwest  Central and North   you might imagine and is
               These regions are relatively  The forest and fjords don’t  popular for weddings and
               flat. Apart from the capital, the  begin until you get some way  christenings. Its phone
               main towns are Gothenburg,  farther north of the capital,  number is (0980) 668 00.
               Malmö and Helsingborg.  and here there are many
               Gothenburg has an elegant  excellent places to stay –  HIGHLIGHTS
               city hotel, a useful first stop  many in beautifully remote
               before heading for the  settings – served by the main  OTELS ILLUSTRATED on
               region’s attractive beach  highways or the ‘Inland  Hthese introductory
               resorts, often based around  Railroad’. The choice ranges  pages are by no means the
               old, fortified towns. The Baltic  from an inn built on the site  only highlights. Other favour-
               islands of Öland and Gotland  of a Carthusian monastery to  ites include Stockholm’s
               are both popular, relaxed  manor houses dating from the  Mälardrottningen, converted
               beach holiday places –  16th century and country  from heiress Barbara Hutton’s
               relatively uncrowded, with  house hotels in peaceful lake-  former yacht (page 35); and
               attractive seaside hotels.  side settings. These last are  Tällberg’s Åkerblads (page
                Stockholm, Sweden’s  flourishing concerns, with  36), a much-loved family
               capital, makes a welcome  tremendous atmosphere and  property run, amazingly,
               urban interlude. It mixes  very good food. Many have a  by more than 20 generations
               brutalist modern design with  dual personality: in summer  of Åkerblads.
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