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               2 8 2                      S P A I N


                                       SPAIN
                  T ISSAID that Spain is                 broad and eclectic
                  not one country,  but                   choice of characterful
               I several. It has by far                   accommodation; from
               the greatest range of                       former  monastic
               landscapes in Europe,                      cells to  dream-like
               four distinct languages,                Gaudíesque hotels, and
               many cultures, and, in              from converted castles to
               Madrid and Barcelona, two         farmsteads. Even Tenerife, that
               of Europe’s most  dynamic      temple of ‘pile-it-high and sell-it-
               cities. The country which      cheap’ tourism, also offers the traveller
               was once known for its high-rise  a stunningly-sited parador and
               package ghettoes today offers a  numerous rural hideaways.
                                                        runs through the Basque
                                                        country, Navarra, La Rioja,
                                                        Aragon, the Pyrenees and
                                                        northern Catalonia to reach
                                                        the Mediterranean.
                                                          By contrast to Bilbao’s
                                                        exuberantly new-wave
                                                        Guggenheim Museum, San
                                                        Sebastian is long-established
                                                        as the most elegant and
                                                        fashionable of all the Spanish
                                                        seaside resorts. It offers an
                                                        interesting, wide range of
                                                        accommodation and some
                                                        very fine luxury hotels.
                                                        Walkers in the the Pyrenees
                                                        are less pampered, with
                                                        refugios, basic mountain
                                                        huts, and more comfortable
                                                        residencias-casa de payés,
                                                        as casas rurales are called
                                                        in these parts.
                                                        Eastern Spain
                                                        Spain’s eastern coastline is the
                                                        land of the Costas, from Brava
                                                        in the north to Blanca in the
                                                        south. Long stretches (though
                                                        by no means the whole
                                                        coastline) are marred by fast-
                                                        buck holiday developments,
                                                        but step just a little way back
                                                        from the beach bars and
               Hotel San Gil, page 325, one of Seville’s most striking buildings  discos and normal service is
                                                        quickly resumed.
               SPAIN REGION         Picos de Europa, to Spain’s
               BY REGION            little-known fjord country,   Barcelona
                                    the Rias Baixas. Here, casas  Rivalling or surpassing Madrid
                 PAINDIVIDES roughly  rurales, or country holiday  in many aspects, Barcelona
               Sinto six regions and two  homes (page 284), are very  may officially be number two
               major cities.        popular. The city of Santiago  in Spain, but it is numero uno
                                    de Compostela, its great  as far as most visitors are
               Northwest Spain      cathedral for centuries the  concerned. Its Old Town
               The long beaches and green,  goal of pilgrims, has both  oozes an ancient and salty
               rural landscapes of Galicia,  luxurious and spartan  atmosphere but the city is
               Asturias and Cantabria are a  accommodation for its   probably best know for its
               world away from package-  many thousands of visitors.  Modernist architecture, some
               holiday Spain. The region                of the most original of which
               varies enormously in its  Northeast Spain   comes from the stable of the
               landscapes, from the moun-  From the Atlantic and Bilbao  hugely talented Antoni Gaudí.
               tains and valleys of the   in the west, Northeast Spain  Barcelona has some superb
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