Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Pacific Northwest
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HOW  T O   USE  THIS   GUIDE      7
                  oregon      91
      OREGON
      oregonians and their visitors alike run out of adjectives
      to describe the scenic wonders contained within the     Introduction The   Pacific Northwest
      97,000 sq miles (251,200 sq km) of the tenth largest US state.
      Here, snowcapped mountains pierce the clouds, waves break
      on rocky shores, rivers sprint through gorges, dense forests cling    1landscape, history, and   Area by Area
      to ravines, and desert vistas stretch beneath skies that, indeed,
      are not cloudy all day.  character of each state
      A forest-cloaked headland, tidal estuary,    desert country in the east. These   In this book, the Pacific
      or stretch of isolated beach appears   landscapes provide more than memorable   or province is outlined
      around every bend of the 363-mile    views. Hiking trails lace the forests, and
      (584-km) Oregon coastline. In the north,   rushing white-water rivers, such as the
      the mighty Columbia River flows through   Rogue and Deschutes, brim with trout,   here, showing how the   Northwest has been divided
      a magnificent gorge where waterfalls   salmon, and sturgeon, attracting white-
      plummet from cliffs. Those traveling   water rafters and anglers. Lakes sparkle
      alongside the river follow in the footsteps   with crystal-clear water; the most   area has developed over   into the two states and one
      of explorers Lewis and Clark, who canoed   awesome of them, Crater Lake, is the
      the rushing waters in 1805. The Snake   deepest in North America. And the slopes
      River, a tributary of the Columbia River,   of Mount Hood are covered with snow –   the centuries and what    province, each of which has its
      tumbles through inhospitable desert    and skiers – all year.
      at the bottom of 8,000-ft (2,440-m)    Oregon serves up cosmopolitan
      Hells Canyon, the deepest gorge in    pleasures, too. Portlanders are quick    it has to offer to the    own chapter. Portland, Seattle,
      North America.  to claim their city as one of the most
      Looking at such rugged landscapes, it is   sophisticated and cultured anywhere.
      easy to imagine the hardships hundreds    But even out-of-the-way places, such    visitor today.  and Vancouver are dealt with
      of thousands of pioneers encountered as   as Ashland, of Shakespeare Festival fame,
      they migrated west along the Oregon Trail.  stage notable events.
      Then, of course, there are the mountains –   Wherever a traveler goes in Oregon,    in separate chapters. Interesting
      the Coast range taking shape above   or whatever they do, the glimmer
      coastal headlands, the Cascades, peaks   of a distant mountain peak and the
      soaring above the central valleys, the   scent of pine in the air will add an extra   sights to visit are numbered
      Wallowas and Blues rising from high   zest to the experience.
                                              on a regional map.
        92      p a cific  nor thwest  region  b y  region  oregon      93
        Exploring Oregon  Getting Around
                          I-5, running north–south, and I-84, running
        travelers in oregon will find that almost any drive inevitably   east to Idaho and the Midwest, are
        takes them through beautiful landscapes. from portland, day   Oregon’s two major routes. Hwy 26 runs
        trips can easily be made to the columbia river gorge and   through lovely landscape from the coast
                          across Mount Hood into eastern Oregon.
        Mount hood, to the north and central coasts, and to the wine   Hwy 101 follows the coast; Hwy 97,
        country and historic towns of the willamette Valley. from the   another scenic north–south route, skirts
        pacific beaches, breathtakingly scenic drives lead across the
                          Driving is the most convenient way to
      Cowboys in the sagebrush-dotted ranching settlement of Jordan Valley  Bybee-Howell House, a Sauvie Island   the Cascade Mountains and Crater Lake.
        coast range to bend and central oregon,
      Imnaha River carving its way through Canyon, Hells Canyon Recreation Area, Oregon  landmark, northwest of Portland  travel in Oregon. Amtrak offers three train
        and from there through pine forests and
                          routes: one east to Chicago, two along the
        high desert country to such natural   coast. Bus service is limited.  Hood River, a small town on the Columbia River Gorge
        wonders as crater Lake, steens
        Mountain, and hells canyon.  ASTORIA
                              Milton-
              CANNON          Freewater
        Sights at a Glance  BEACH  Columbia  Hermiston  HELLS CANYON   Regional map This shows
        2 Astoria   Nehalem  COLUMBIA   Hood River  Columbia  NATIONAL
                C o a s t                 R a n ge s
        3 Cannon Beach   RIVER GORGE  Arlington  PENDLETON  Grand Ronde   RECREATION AREA
        4 Tillamook   TILLAMOOK  Portland  The Dalles  Pilot B l u e   M o u n t a i n s    2the road network and gives
        5 Three Capes Scenic Route   Mt Hood  Rock  La  JOSEPH
        6 Lincoln City   THREE  Newburg  Oregon City  3424 m  Heppner  Grande  WALLOWA LAKE
        7 Newport   CAPES McMINNVILLE  NORTH   Valley Tygh  Condon  Union  Mountains Wallowa
        8 Yachats   WILLAMETTE VALLEY  John Day   Ukiah  an illustrated overview of the
        9 Cape Perpetua Scenic Area   LINCOLN  SILVERTON  North Powder  Oxbow
        0 Florence   Depoe Bay CITY  SALEM  Deschutes   JOHN DAY  Key
        q Oregon Dunes National   WARM SPRINGS  FOSSIL BEDS  Granite  ELKHORN  Baker City     Highway
         Recreation Area   Albany   Mt Jefferson  NATIONAL  DRIVE  Snake   region. Interesting places to
                           MONUMENT
        w Bandon   NEWPORT  Corvallis  Lebanon  3199 m  MADRAS  Mitchell     Major road
        r McMinnville         John Day  Huntington     Minor road
        t Silverton   SMITH ROCK  Mount Vernon  Strawberry Mountain     Scenic route  visit are numbered, and there
        y Salem   YACHATS  CAPE   SISTERS  2755 m  Brogan     Main railroad
        u Eugene   PERPETUA  Seneca  Ontario     Minor railroad
        i Madras and Warm Springs   FLORENCE  EUGENE  BEND  Crooked     State border
        o Sisters   CASCADE LAKES  OREGON      Summit  are also useful tips on getting
        p Smith Rock State Park   OREGON  C a s c a d e                   R a n g e   HIGHWAY  Malheur  Harper
             DUNES
        a Bend    Oakridge  NEWBERRY  Juntura
        s Newberry National    Lakeside  NATIONAL  Burns  to, and around, the region by
                      VOLCANIC
         Volcanic Monument   North  C o a s t       R a n g e s    Sutherlin  Crescent  MONUMENT  Har ne y  Crane   Lake
        g Oregon Caves National   Bend  Coos Bay  Wagontire Basin  Malheur Lake MALHEUR NATIONAL Owyhee
         Monument
        h Jacksonville   BANDON  Roseburg   Mt Thielsen 2799 m  Chemult Silver Lake  Harney Lake  WILDLIFE REFUGE  car and public transport.
        j Ashland                 JORDAN
                                  VALLEY
        l Jordan Valley    Cape  Riddle  Union Creek  CRATER LAKE  STEENS
                     NATIONAL PARK
        z Malheur National    Blanco  Port  Frenchglen  MOUNTAIN
         Wildlife Refuge   Orford  Wolf Creek  Paisley  Burns  Owyhee
        x John Day Fossil Beds    Chiloquin  Lake Abert  Alvord  Junction
         National Monument   Rogue   Mt McLoughlin  Desert
        c Pendleton   Pistol  Grants Pass   2894 m  Upper Klamath   Valley Falls  Hart Mountain
                     Lake
                            2331 m
        b Joseph   River  Medford  Bly
        n Wallowa Lake  JACKSONVILLE  ASHLAND  Klamath Falls
              Brookings   Lakeview
        Tours  OREGON CAVES  Merrill
        1 Columbia River Gorge and    NATIONAL MONUMENT
         Mount Hood pp94–95
        e Wine Country of the North
         Willamette Valley pp102–3   k Steens Mountain p113
        d Cascade Lakes Highway    v Elkhorn Drive National Scenic
         pp108–9   Byway pp116–17
        f Crater Lake National Park    m Hells Canyon National Recreation   0 kilometers  50
         pp110–11   Area pp118–19   0 miles  40  Rocks rising from the sea near Tillamook, Oregon coast
                                     For keys to symbols  see back flap
        For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8  194      p a cific  nor thwest  region  b y  region  w ashingt on      195
                                        Cascades, the Winthrop area   on I-82. Begin the wine tour    the surrounding neighborhood,
                                        offers a wealth of outdoor   at Exit 40 (Treveri Cellars), then   with its tree-shaded streets
                                        recreation possibilities.
                                                          lined with historic homes.
                                                     continue on the Yakima Valley
          Each area of the Pacific Northwest   E Shafer Museum  Highway. Columbia Crest and     A popular destination for wine
                                                          connoisseurs, the Walla Walla
                                                     Preston Winery have some of
                                                     the best tours.
                                                          area offers more than 100
                                        285 Castle Ave. Tel (509) 996-2712.
          can be quickly identified by its    Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm daily. &     The outstanding weather and   wineries (see pp196–7) – several
                                        by donation. ∑ shafermuseum.com
                                                     beautiful landscape lend them-
                                                          in the heart of downtown Walla
                                                     selves to outdoor recreations.
                                                          Walla. Among the town’s other
          color coding, shown on the inside   Horseback riders enjoying the scenery along a Winthrop trail  a Spokane   View of the Spokane River, the town in    The two mountain passes,   claims to fame are its delicious
                                                          sweet onions and its annual Hot
                                                     White Pass and Chinook Pass,
                                                the background
                                                     offer great hiking, mountain
                                                          Air Balloon Stampede, a rally of
                                        Road map 1 C2. * 208,000.
          front flap.         o Winthrop   home to the Winthrop Town   k Spokane International Airport.   Museum of Arts and Culture.   biking, and skiing in the winter   some 45 pilots, held in October.
                                                          Highlights of the stampede
                                   Hall, is still standing, as is
                                                     months; streams encourage
                                                Nearby Campbell House (1898)
                                        n 808 W Main Ave, 1-888-SPOKANE.
                              Road map 1 B1. * 350.
                                                is an interactive museum.
                                                     fishing; and boating is available
                                   Waring’s pioneer log house,
                                                          include the Friday “Night Glow”
                                        ∑ visitspokane.com
                              n 202 Hwy 20, (509) 996-2125.
                              ∑ winthropwashington.com  which sits on the grounds of      The smallest city ever to host   on lakes. The area is also rich in   with its illuminated balloons,
                                   the Shafer Museum, along    Washington’s largest inland city,   a world’s fair (Expo ’74), Spokane’s   wildlife, including bald eagles.  and a kids’ day that offers
                              The Wild West lives on in   with other relics from the past.  Spokane is the commerce and   fair site is now Riverfront Park,   tethered balloon rides.
                              Winthrop. In the spring or fall,     By the 1960s, Winthrop   culture center for the Inland   a large expanse in the heart of     For a historical perspective on
                              more than one astonished   resembled any other small,    Northwest. Founded in 1873    the city that offers views of   the area, visit Fort Walla Walla
                              traveler has witnessed a   non-descript town in the   by real estate developer James   dramatic Spokane Falls. Other   Museum, a pioneer village
                                                          consisting of 17 original and
                              genuine cattle drive – right
                                        Nettle Glover, the city suffered
                                   American West before its
                                                attractions are an IMAX theater
          Detailed information   down the main street.  merchants, eager to revive the   a disastrous fire in 1889. It   and a 1909 carousel carved by   replica buildings, including
                                        responded by rebuilding in brick
                                The town was founded in 1891  local economy, “renovated”
                                                Charles Looff, of Coney Island
                                                          a schoolhouse, jail, and train
                                        and terracotta. Many handsome
                                   the town to give it an Old West
                                                fame. The 37-mile (59-km)
                                                          station, as well as the Whitman
                              by Guy Waring, a Boston-bred
       3Noteworthy towns, cities,    businessman whose Winthrop   ambience. A popular overnight   reminders of the building boom   Centennial Trail starts at   Luscious grapes on the vine in the   Mission National Historic Site.
                                                          Here, visitors can discover the
                                                Riverside State Park and extends
                                   and vacation destination for
                                        remain. Regional history is
                              enterprises included the Duck
                                   tourists exploring the North
                                                          story of pioneer missionaries
                                                to the Washington-Idaho border.
                              Brand Saloon. The saloon, now
                                        show cased at the Northwest
                                                          Marcus and Narcissa Whitman
         and other places to visit are   p Grand Coulee Dam  VISITORS’ CHeCklIST  E Northwest Museum of Arts   wine-growing area of Yakima Valley  and their subsequent massacre
                                                and Culture
                                                          by the Cayuse Indians. On week-
                                                     d Walla Walla
                                                2316 W 1st Ave. Tel (509) 456-3931.
                                                          ends, the Living History Company
                              Considered one of the modern engineering wonders of the world,   Practical Information  Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun.    Road map 1 C3. * 30,000.    honors the area’s history
         described individually. They    Grand Coulee Dam is the world’s second-largest concrete dam, the   9265. Open daily. Jun & Jul:   ∑ northwestmuseum.org  n 26 E Main, (877) 998-4748.    through music and dance.
                                                Closed major hols. & 7 - =
                                        Road map 1 C2. Tel (509) 633-
                              largest hydroelectric dam in North America, and the sixth-largest
                                                     ∑ wallawalla.org
                                        8:30am–11pm; Aug: 8:30am–
                              producer of electricity in the world. Spanning the mighty Columbia
                                                          E Fort Walla Walla Museum
                                                     Located in the southeast corner
                                        10:30pm; Sep: 8:30am–9:30pm;
                                                          755 Myra Rd. Tel (509) 525-7703.
                              River – the seventh-largest river in the US – it generates more
                                                Environs
         are listed in order, following    power than a million locomotives, supplying electricity    Irrigation Canal Oct–May: 9am–5pm. 8 Twelve irrigation   Just 6 miles (10 km) northwest   of the state, Walla Walla is a   Open Mar–Oct: 10am–5pm daily,
                                                          Nov–Feb 10am–4pm daily.
                                                of Spokane, Riverside State
                              to 11 western states. Construction of the dam began
                                                     charming and pretty town –
                                                          Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
                                                     and a green oasis in the midst
                              in 1933 and took over nine years. The dam
                                                Park offers plenty of fresh water
                              was built primarily to supply irrigation   pipes at the canal   shoreline. The Bowl and Pitcher,   of an arid landscape. The town   & 7 (call ahead). 8 by appt.
         the numbering on the regional   water to eastern Washington, where   headworks pump   with its suspension bridge and   features a large number of   ∑ fwwm.org
                                           water to lakes
                              inadequate rainfall threatened the
                                                     National Register buildings, lovely
                                                volcanic formations, is stunning.
                                                          P Whitman Mission National
                                           and reservoirs.
                                                     parks, and a wealth of public art.
                              livelihood of the region’s farmers.
                                                          Historic Site
         map. Within each sight there    Inside    The power plants   The dam, nearly 1 mile   Y Riverside State Park  Whitman College, one of the   Hwy 12. Tel (509) 522-6360.
                                                     nation’s top-rated liberal arts
                                                          Open 8am–6pm daily (Oct–May: to
                                                9711 W Charles St, Nine Mile Falls.
                                          (1.5 km) long, towers
                                                          4:30pm). Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving,
                                                Tel (509) 465-5064. Open dawn–dusk.
                                                     colleges, is just three blocks
                                          almost 550 ft (152 m)
                                                          Dec 25. & 7 (except Monument
                                           above bedrock.
                                                     from downtown. The attractive
                                 house the generators
         is detailed information on   the Dam  and turbines.  The spillway doubles   s Yakima Valley   campus is a delight to stroll, as is   Hill). ∑ nps.gov/whmi
                                          as a screen in summer
                                                Road map 1 B2. n 10 N 8th St, Yakima,
                                          for spectacular nightly
         interesting buildings and    Trash-  racks  prevent   Columbia River  (800) 221-0751. ∑ visityakima.com
                                           laser shows.
                                                Boasting rich volcanic soil,
                              debris
                                                an abundance of irrigation
                              from   Four gantry cranes   water, and 300 days of sunshine
         other attractions.   entering    to move heavy equipment.  The concrete poured   per year, the Yakima Valley
                              the generators.
                                 are located on the dam
                                                is the 12th-largest producer
                                           to build the dam
                                           amounts to almost
                                          12 million cubic yards    of fruits and vegetables in the
                                                US, and home to more than
                                          (9 million cubic m) –
                                Lake Roosevelt  enough to build a    80 regional wineries.
                                                  For a taste of the valley’s
                                           4-ft- (1-m-) wide
                              A third power plant features three of the   sidewalk twice    award-winning wines, drive
                              largest hydro generators in the world.  around the equator.  10 minutes south of Yakima    Balloons over Walla Walla during the annual Hot Air Balloon Stampede
                              For hotels and restaurants see pp288–90 and pp300–2
         182      p a cific  nor thwest  region  b y  region  w ashingt on      183
         3 San Juan Islands      . Deer Harbor
                                 Sea kayakers flock    VISItORS’ CHECKLISt
                                 to Deer Harbor and
         scattered between the washington mainland and   the other waters   Practical Information
         Vancouver island, the san Juan archipelago consists of   surrounding the   Road map 1 A1.
                                     n (888) 468-3701.
         over 450 islands, 172 of them named. ferries sail from   islands of Orcas,   ∑ visitsanjuans.com   A visitors’ checklist provides all
                                 Lopez, and San Juan.
         anacortes to the four largest islands: Lopez, shaw, orcas,   ∑ wsdot.wa.gov/ferries
         and san Juan. Lopez is affectionately called “slopez”   Transport
         because of its laid-back nature. gently rolling roads,   g Washington State Ferries    the practical information needed
         numerous stopping points, and friendly drivers make it a   from Anacortes or Sidney, BC,
         popular destination for cycling. horseshoe-shaped orcas,   Waldron   to the San Juan Islands. tel (206)
         the hilliest island in the chain, offers breathtaking views   Sailboats in the Channel  Island  Eastsound  464-6400. ∑ takeaferry.com   to plan your visit.
                                     (book in advance).
         from atop 2,409-ft (734-m) Mount constitution. the best   Sailors love the many harbors     Waldron
         destination for walk-on passengers, san Juan island is home   and good winds in the San
         to friday harbor, the largest town in the archipelago.    Juan Channel.  Mount
         the nationally renowned whale Museum is located here.    Constitution
         the island is also one of the best locations in the world   J
         for shoreside whale-watching and sea kayaking. primarily   Rosario
         residential, shaw island has limited visitor facilities.
                              Orcas
                              Island
                  Victoria       Olga
                                   Bellingham
                           Deer Harbor
                             Orcas
                             •
                                     . Lopez
                       San Juan Channel
                    J
                                     hills, Lopez is the flattest
                            Shaw   Blakely   Despite its gently rolling    Top sights These are
                            Island  Island  of the San Juan Islands,
                                     making it a popular
                    J
                                     destination for    4given two or more pages.
                       San Juan   Spencer Spit   recreational cyclists.
                  Lime Kiln Point   Island  Friday Harbor  State Park
                  State Park
         . Roche Harbor                         The most interesting town
         A charming seaside village, Roche Harbor features a marina,
         Victorian gardens, a chapel, and the historic Hotel de Haro,
         built in 1886. There is also a spa, an outdoor swimming pool,
         and tennis and bocce ball courts.      or city centers are shown
                               Lopez Island  Rosario Strait
                                                with sights picked out and
                      Seattle
                           South
                           Beach  Richardson    described; parks have
                                                maps showing facilities,
                                                major exhibits, and the
                   0 kilometers  2  Key  . Friday Harbor
                                   The largest town in the San Juans, Friday
                             Major road
         Lime Kiln Point State Park  0 mile  1  Harbor offers a number of restaurants, inns,   main roads and trails.
         This state park, with its picturesque lighthouse, completed in 1919,       Minor road  galleries, and shops – all within easy
         is the only park in the US dedicated to whale-watching.     Ferry route  walking distance of the ferry dock.
         For hotels and restaurants see pp288–90 and pp300–2  For keys to symbols see back flap
   US_PNW_006-007_How_to.indd   7                           04/07/16   12:33 pm
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