Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Pacific Northwest
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HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE 7
oregon 91
OREGON
oregonians and their visitors alike run out of adjectives
to describe the scenic wonders contained within the Introduction The Pacific Northwest
97,000 sq miles (251,200 sq km) of the tenth largest US state.
Here, snowcapped mountains pierce the clouds, waves break
on rocky shores, rivers sprint through gorges, dense forests cling 1landscape, history, and Area by Area
to ravines, and desert vistas stretch beneath skies that, indeed,
are not cloudy all day. character of each state
A forest-cloaked headland, tidal estuary, desert country in the east. These In this book, the Pacific
or stretch of isolated beach appears landscapes provide more than memorable or province is outlined
around every bend of the 363-mile views. Hiking trails lace the forests, and
(584-km) Oregon coastline. In the north, rushing white-water rivers, such as the
the mighty Columbia River flows through Rogue and Deschutes, brim with trout, here, showing how the Northwest has been divided
a magnificent gorge where waterfalls salmon, and sturgeon, attracting white-
plummet from cliffs. Those traveling water rafters and anglers. Lakes sparkle
alongside the river follow in the footsteps with crystal-clear water; the most area has developed over into the two states and one
of explorers Lewis and Clark, who canoed awesome of them, Crater Lake, is the
the rushing waters in 1805. The Snake deepest in North America. And the slopes
River, a tributary of the Columbia River, of Mount Hood are covered with snow – the centuries and what province, each of which has its
tumbles through inhospitable desert and skiers – all year.
at the bottom of 8,000-ft (2,440-m) Oregon serves up cosmopolitan
Hells Canyon, the deepest gorge in pleasures, too. Portlanders are quick it has to offer to the own chapter. Portland, Seattle,
North America. to claim their city as one of the most
Looking at such rugged landscapes, it is sophisticated and cultured anywhere.
easy to imagine the hardships hundreds But even out-of-the-way places, such visitor today. and Vancouver are dealt with
of thousands of pioneers encountered as as Ashland, of Shakespeare Festival fame,
they migrated west along the Oregon Trail. stage notable events.
Then, of course, there are the mountains – Wherever a traveler goes in Oregon, in separate chapters. Interesting
the Coast range taking shape above or whatever they do, the glimmer
coastal headlands, the Cascades, peaks of a distant mountain peak and the
soaring above the central valleys, the scent of pine in the air will add an extra sights to visit are numbered
Wallowas and Blues rising from high zest to the experience.
on a regional map.
92 p a cific nor thwest region b y region oregon 93
Exploring Oregon Getting Around
I-5, running north–south, and I-84, running
travelers in oregon will find that almost any drive inevitably east to Idaho and the Midwest, are
takes them through beautiful landscapes. from portland, day Oregon’s two major routes. Hwy 26 runs
trips can easily be made to the columbia river gorge and through lovely landscape from the coast
across Mount Hood into eastern Oregon.
Mount hood, to the north and central coasts, and to the wine Hwy 101 follows the coast; Hwy 97,
country and historic towns of the willamette Valley. from the another scenic north–south route, skirts
pacific beaches, breathtakingly scenic drives lead across the
Driving is the most convenient way to
Cowboys in the sagebrush-dotted ranching settlement of Jordan Valley Bybee-Howell House, a Sauvie Island the Cascade Mountains and Crater Lake.
coast range to bend and central oregon,
Imnaha River carving its way through Canyon, Hells Canyon Recreation Area, Oregon landmark, northwest of Portland travel in Oregon. Amtrak offers three train
and from there through pine forests and
routes: one east to Chicago, two along the
high desert country to such natural coast. Bus service is limited. Hood River, a small town on the Columbia River Gorge
wonders as crater Lake, steens
Mountain, and hells canyon. ASTORIA
Milton-
CANNON Freewater
Sights at a Glance BEACH Columbia Hermiston HELLS CANYON Regional map This shows
2 Astoria Nehalem COLUMBIA Hood River Columbia NATIONAL
C o a s t R a n ge s
3 Cannon Beach RIVER GORGE Arlington PENDLETON Grand Ronde RECREATION AREA
4 Tillamook TILLAMOOK Portland The Dalles Pilot B l u e M o u n t a i n s 2the road network and gives
5 Three Capes Scenic Route Mt Hood Rock La JOSEPH
6 Lincoln City THREE Newburg Oregon City 3424 m Heppner Grande WALLOWA LAKE
7 Newport CAPES McMINNVILLE NORTH Valley Tygh Condon Union Mountains Wallowa
8 Yachats WILLAMETTE VALLEY John Day Ukiah an illustrated overview of the
9 Cape Perpetua Scenic Area LINCOLN SILVERTON North Powder Oxbow
0 Florence Depoe Bay CITY SALEM Deschutes JOHN DAY Key
q Oregon Dunes National WARM SPRINGS FOSSIL BEDS Granite ELKHORN Baker City Highway
Recreation Area Albany Mt Jefferson NATIONAL DRIVE Snake region. Interesting places to
MONUMENT
w Bandon NEWPORT Corvallis Lebanon 3199 m MADRAS Mitchell Major road
r McMinnville John Day Huntington Minor road
t Silverton SMITH ROCK Mount Vernon Strawberry Mountain Scenic route visit are numbered, and there
y Salem YACHATS CAPE SISTERS 2755 m Brogan Main railroad
u Eugene PERPETUA Seneca Ontario Minor railroad
i Madras and Warm Springs FLORENCE EUGENE BEND Crooked State border
o Sisters CASCADE LAKES OREGON Summit are also useful tips on getting
p Smith Rock State Park OREGON C a s c a d e R a n g e HIGHWAY Malheur Harper
DUNES
a Bend Oakridge NEWBERRY Juntura
s Newberry National Lakeside NATIONAL Burns to, and around, the region by
VOLCANIC
Volcanic Monument North C o a s t R a n g e s Sutherlin Crescent MONUMENT Har ne y Crane Lake
g Oregon Caves National Bend Coos Bay Wagontire Basin Malheur Lake MALHEUR NATIONAL Owyhee
Monument
h Jacksonville BANDON Roseburg Mt Thielsen 2799 m Chemult Silver Lake Harney Lake WILDLIFE REFUGE car and public transport.
j Ashland JORDAN
VALLEY
l Jordan Valley Cape Riddle Union Creek CRATER LAKE STEENS
NATIONAL PARK
z Malheur National Blanco Port Frenchglen MOUNTAIN
Wildlife Refuge Orford Wolf Creek Paisley Burns Owyhee
x John Day Fossil Beds Chiloquin Lake Abert Alvord Junction
National Monument Rogue Mt McLoughlin Desert
c Pendleton Pistol Grants Pass 2894 m Upper Klamath Valley Falls Hart Mountain
Lake
2331 m
b Joseph River Medford Bly
n Wallowa Lake JACKSONVILLE ASHLAND Klamath Falls
Brookings Lakeview
Tours OREGON CAVES Merrill
1 Columbia River Gorge and NATIONAL MONUMENT
Mount Hood pp94–95
e Wine Country of the North
Willamette Valley pp102–3 k Steens Mountain p113
d Cascade Lakes Highway v Elkhorn Drive National Scenic
pp108–9 Byway pp116–17
f Crater Lake National Park m Hells Canyon National Recreation 0 kilometers 50
pp110–11 Area pp118–19 0 miles 40 Rocks rising from the sea near Tillamook, Oregon coast
For keys to symbols see back flap
For hotels and restaurants see pp286–8 and pp296–8 194 p a cific nor thwest region b y region w ashingt on 195
Cascades, the Winthrop area on I-82. Begin the wine tour the surrounding neighborhood,
offers a wealth of outdoor at Exit 40 (Treveri Cellars), then with its tree-shaded streets
recreation possibilities.
lined with historic homes.
continue on the Yakima Valley
Each area of the Pacific Northwest E Shafer Museum Highway. Columbia Crest and A popular destination for wine
connoisseurs, the Walla Walla
Preston Winery have some of
the best tours.
area offers more than 100
285 Castle Ave. Tel (509) 996-2712.
can be quickly identified by its Open May–Sep: 10am–5pm daily. & The outstanding weather and wineries (see pp196–7) – several
by donation. ∑ shafermuseum.com
beautiful landscape lend them-
in the heart of downtown Walla
selves to outdoor recreations.
Walla. Among the town’s other
color coding, shown on the inside Horseback riders enjoying the scenery along a Winthrop trail a Spokane View of the Spokane River, the town in The two mountain passes, claims to fame are its delicious
sweet onions and its annual Hot
White Pass and Chinook Pass,
the background
offer great hiking, mountain
Air Balloon Stampede, a rally of
Road map 1 C2. * 208,000.
front flap. o Winthrop home to the Winthrop Town k Spokane International Airport. Museum of Arts and Culture. biking, and skiing in the winter some 45 pilots, held in October.
Highlights of the stampede
Hall, is still standing, as is
months; streams encourage
Nearby Campbell House (1898)
n 808 W Main Ave, 1-888-SPOKANE.
Road map 1 B1. * 350.
is an interactive museum.
fishing; and boating is available
Waring’s pioneer log house,
include the Friday “Night Glow”
∑ visitspokane.com
n 202 Hwy 20, (509) 996-2125.
∑ winthropwashington.com which sits on the grounds of The smallest city ever to host on lakes. The area is also rich in with its illuminated balloons,
the Shafer Museum, along Washington’s largest inland city, a world’s fair (Expo ’74), Spokane’s wildlife, including bald eagles. and a kids’ day that offers
The Wild West lives on in with other relics from the past. Spokane is the commerce and fair site is now Riverfront Park, tethered balloon rides.
Winthrop. In the spring or fall, By the 1960s, Winthrop culture center for the Inland a large expanse in the heart of For a historical perspective on
more than one astonished resembled any other small, Northwest. Founded in 1873 the city that offers views of the area, visit Fort Walla Walla
traveler has witnessed a non-descript town in the by real estate developer James dramatic Spokane Falls. Other Museum, a pioneer village
consisting of 17 original and
genuine cattle drive – right
Nettle Glover, the city suffered
American West before its
attractions are an IMAX theater
Detailed information down the main street. merchants, eager to revive the a disastrous fire in 1889. It and a 1909 carousel carved by replica buildings, including
responded by rebuilding in brick
The town was founded in 1891 local economy, “renovated”
Charles Looff, of Coney Island
a schoolhouse, jail, and train
and terracotta. Many handsome
the town to give it an Old West
fame. The 37-mile (59-km)
station, as well as the Whitman
by Guy Waring, a Boston-bred
3Noteworthy towns, cities, businessman whose Winthrop ambience. A popular overnight reminders of the building boom Centennial Trail starts at Luscious grapes on the vine in the Mission National Historic Site.
Here, visitors can discover the
Riverside State Park and extends
and vacation destination for
remain. Regional history is
enterprises included the Duck
tourists exploring the North
story of pioneer missionaries
to the Washington-Idaho border.
Brand Saloon. The saloon, now
show cased at the Northwest
Marcus and Narcissa Whitman
and other places to visit are p Grand Coulee Dam VISITORS’ CHeCklIST E Northwest Museum of Arts wine-growing area of Yakima Valley and their subsequent massacre
and Culture
by the Cayuse Indians. On week-
d Walla Walla
2316 W 1st Ave. Tel (509) 456-3931.
ends, the Living History Company
Considered one of the modern engineering wonders of the world, Practical Information Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. Road map 1 C3. * 30,000. honors the area’s history
described individually. They Grand Coulee Dam is the world’s second-largest concrete dam, the 9265. Open daily. Jun & Jul: ∑ northwestmuseum.org n 26 E Main, (877) 998-4748. through music and dance.
Closed major hols. & 7 - =
Road map 1 C2. Tel (509) 633-
largest hydroelectric dam in North America, and the sixth-largest
∑ wallawalla.org
8:30am–11pm; Aug: 8:30am–
producer of electricity in the world. Spanning the mighty Columbia
E Fort Walla Walla Museum
Located in the southeast corner
10:30pm; Sep: 8:30am–9:30pm;
755 Myra Rd. Tel (509) 525-7703.
River – the seventh-largest river in the US – it generates more
Environs
are listed in order, following power than a million locomotives, supplying electricity Irrigation Canal Oct–May: 9am–5pm. 8 Twelve irrigation Just 6 miles (10 km) northwest of the state, Walla Walla is a Open Mar–Oct: 10am–5pm daily,
Nov–Feb 10am–4pm daily.
of Spokane, Riverside State
to 11 western states. Construction of the dam began
charming and pretty town –
Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.
and a green oasis in the midst
in 1933 and took over nine years. The dam
Park offers plenty of fresh water
was built primarily to supply irrigation pipes at the canal shoreline. The Bowl and Pitcher, of an arid landscape. The town & 7 (call ahead). 8 by appt.
the numbering on the regional water to eastern Washington, where headworks pump with its suspension bridge and features a large number of ∑ fwwm.org
water to lakes
inadequate rainfall threatened the
National Register buildings, lovely
volcanic formations, is stunning.
P Whitman Mission National
and reservoirs.
parks, and a wealth of public art.
livelihood of the region’s farmers.
Historic Site
map. Within each sight there Inside The power plants The dam, nearly 1 mile Y Riverside State Park Whitman College, one of the Hwy 12. Tel (509) 522-6360.
nation’s top-rated liberal arts
Open 8am–6pm daily (Oct–May: to
9711 W Charles St, Nine Mile Falls.
(1.5 km) long, towers
4:30pm). Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving,
Tel (509) 465-5064. Open dawn–dusk.
colleges, is just three blocks
almost 550 ft (152 m)
Dec 25. & 7 (except Monument
above bedrock.
from downtown. The attractive
house the generators
is detailed information on the Dam and turbines. The spillway doubles s Yakima Valley campus is a delight to stroll, as is Hill). ∑ nps.gov/whmi
as a screen in summer
Road map 1 B2. n 10 N 8th St, Yakima,
for spectacular nightly
interesting buildings and Trash- racks prevent Columbia River (800) 221-0751. ∑ visityakima.com
laser shows.
Boasting rich volcanic soil,
debris
an abundance of irrigation
from Four gantry cranes water, and 300 days of sunshine
other attractions. entering to move heavy equipment. The concrete poured per year, the Yakima Valley
the generators.
are located on the dam
is the 12th-largest producer
to build the dam
amounts to almost
12 million cubic yards of fruits and vegetables in the
US, and home to more than
(9 million cubic m) –
Lake Roosevelt enough to build a 80 regional wineries.
For a taste of the valley’s
4-ft- (1-m-) wide
A third power plant features three of the sidewalk twice award-winning wines, drive
largest hydro generators in the world. around the equator. 10 minutes south of Yakima Balloons over Walla Walla during the annual Hot Air Balloon Stampede
For hotels and restaurants see pp288–90 and pp300–2
182 p a cific nor thwest region b y region w ashingt on 183
3 San Juan Islands . Deer Harbor
Sea kayakers flock VISItORS’ CHECKLISt
to Deer Harbor and
scattered between the washington mainland and the other waters Practical Information
Vancouver island, the san Juan archipelago consists of surrounding the Road map 1 A1.
n (888) 468-3701.
over 450 islands, 172 of them named. ferries sail from islands of Orcas, ∑ visitsanjuans.com A visitors’ checklist provides all
Lopez, and San Juan.
anacortes to the four largest islands: Lopez, shaw, orcas, ∑ wsdot.wa.gov/ferries
and san Juan. Lopez is affectionately called “slopez” Transport
because of its laid-back nature. gently rolling roads, g Washington State Ferries the practical information needed
numerous stopping points, and friendly drivers make it a from Anacortes or Sidney, BC,
popular destination for cycling. horseshoe-shaped orcas, Waldron to the San Juan Islands. tel (206)
the hilliest island in the chain, offers breathtaking views Sailboats in the Channel Island Eastsound 464-6400. ∑ takeaferry.com to plan your visit.
(book in advance).
from atop 2,409-ft (734-m) Mount constitution. the best Sailors love the many harbors Waldron
destination for walk-on passengers, san Juan island is home and good winds in the San
to friday harbor, the largest town in the archipelago. Juan Channel. Mount
the nationally renowned whale Museum is located here. Constitution
the island is also one of the best locations in the world J
for shoreside whale-watching and sea kayaking. primarily Rosario
residential, shaw island has limited visitor facilities.
Orcas
Island
Victoria Olga
Bellingham
Deer Harbor
Orcas
•
. Lopez
San Juan Channel
J
hills, Lopez is the flattest
Shaw Blakely Despite its gently rolling Top sights These are
Island Island of the San Juan Islands,
making it a popular
J
destination for 4given two or more pages.
San Juan Spencer Spit recreational cyclists.
Lime Kiln Point Island Friday Harbor State Park
State Park
. Roche Harbor The most interesting town
A charming seaside village, Roche Harbor features a marina,
Victorian gardens, a chapel, and the historic Hotel de Haro,
built in 1886. There is also a spa, an outdoor swimming pool,
and tennis and bocce ball courts. or city centers are shown
Lopez Island Rosario Strait
with sights picked out and
Seattle
South
Beach Richardson described; parks have
maps showing facilities,
major exhibits, and the
0 kilometers 2 Key . Friday Harbor
The largest town in the San Juans, Friday
Major road
Lime Kiln Point State Park 0 mile 1 Harbor offers a number of restaurants, inns, main roads and trails.
This state park, with its picturesque lighthouse, completed in 1919, Minor road galleries, and shops – all within easy
is the only park in the US dedicated to whale-watching. Ferry route walking distance of the ferry dock.
For hotels and restaurants see pp288–90 and pp300–2 For keys to symbols see back flap
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