Page 100 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)

“It was a year when everything was ready

to be picked at the same time,” says Sophia
Bergqvist of Quinta de la Rosa, who notes

that she picked the last of the grapes from her
highest-altitude vineyard on Sept. 18, three
days before the date that her 2016 harvest

started. The Quinta de la Rosa Vintage Port
2017 (95, $90) matches the quality of this

small independent producer’s classic-rated
2011, marked with a very floral profile as vio-
let and lilac accents lead off, followed by a

decidedly red-fruit spectrum of raspberry,
cherry and red currant coulis flavors that race

throughout. The wine has grip, but feels more
reliant on acidity, showing a nearly piercing
feel as the tightly focused finish zips along,

leaving a mouthwatering impression.
The Wine & Soul Vintage Port Pintas 2017
(95, $90) is another classic-quality bottling

from a small producer that is worth the search.
Since joining her family’s Port house, Quinta de la Rosa, in the late 1980s, Sophia Bergqvist has worked to raise
It displays a lush and luxurious beam of steeped quality at this small estate, producing one of its best bottlings ever in 2017.
raspberry, boysenberry and blackberry fruit

laced with licorice, fruitcake and cobbler notes, showing depth and jumped into triple digits in recent years, there are still terrific val-
grip while remaining remarkably polished and refined. The wine ues to be had. The Quinta do Crasto Vintage Port 2017 (95, $55)

is sourced from an 87-year-old vineyard growing a field blend of 40 leads the way in this category, offering a distinctly extroverted pro-
different grape varieties. file of bright floral and anise aromas that jump to the fore, followed
“We picked three weeks earlier than usual,” says owner and wine- quickly by racy flavors of boysenberry, açaí berry, plum and black

maker Sandra Tavares da Silva. “June was very hot, and conditions currant preserves. The Sandeman Vintage Port Quinta do Seixo
were mostly dry through September. The temperatures during the 2017 (95, $65) and Quinta da Romaneira Vintage Port 2017 (94,

ripening season were moderate, though, with cool nights leading $70) are also excellent buys that will cellar well for 25 years.
to balanced musts, great acidity and impressive phenolics.” Vintage Port remains a small category. But the wines being pro-
duced today are better than ever. Those who respect the time and

ven with the high quality in 2017, Port producers wrestled patience it takes to mature these wines in the cellar will be richly
with the idea of declaring consecutive vintages. 2017 marks rewarded. And with back-to-back declarations in 2016 and 2017,

Ethe first time ever that the Symingtons have declared in the chance to compare and contrast among the best Ports when they
back-to-back years (the company did declare in 1872 and 1873, do reach their peak will have Port lovers gladly seeing double.
but that was before it was under the Symingtons’ ownership). The Senior editor James Molesworth is Wine Spectator’s lead taster on Port.

Taylor Fladgate Partnership, home to Taylor
Fladgate, Fonseca, Croft and Krohn, has only Rating Vintage Port

made 20 declarations since 1955, but also
declared in both 2017 and 2016. 2017 98 A rare back-to-back general declaration thanks to a very warm, Hold
Typically, the region declares only about very dry season, leading to intensely concentrated wines

three out of every 10 years. With many houses 2016 96 A generally declared vintage, with the wines showing Hold
exuberant fruit, racy acidity and tightly focused structure
also declaring single-quinta Ports in 2015, the
2015 93 Solid, but not generally declared, with most houses releasing Hold
quantity of Vintage Port available was already only single-quinta bottlings; the best are ripe, fresh and driven
substantial. This meant that a declaration in 2014 89 Charming wines from a harvest dampened by rain; Hold
lighter-bodied and racier. Not widely declared
2017 carried a risk for producers due to the
2011 99 Powerful and elegant, with concentrated fruit flavors and Hold
potential for excess supply to back up in the plenty of grip; a benchmark vintage
marketplace. To hedge against that, most 2007 98 Structured yet refined; balanced and harmonious, with Hold
houses made severe selections despite the defined ripe fruit and polished tannins

year’s high quality and low yields. 2003 98 Balanced, fresh and aromatic, with lovely ripe fruit and rich, Hold
powerful tannins; some classics
“We had a few tough family meetings,” says
2000 97 Aromatic, rich and ripe, with serious structure Hold
Symington of the decision. “In the end, we
Notable older vintages: 1997, 1995, 1994, 1992, 1991, 1985, 1983, 1977, 1970, 1966, 1963
decided to declare both [vintages], but we A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on barrel samples and/or a limited sampling; many wines of the vintage
not yet reviewed.
bottled much less than normal [in 2017], with Vintage ratings: 95–100, classic; 90–94, outstanding; 85–89, very good; 80–84, good; 75–79, mediocre; 50–74, not
recommended Drinkability: “NYR” means most of the wines of the vintage are yet to be released; “drink” means most of the
just 18,000 cases versus 24,000 cases in 2016.”
wines of the vintage are ready to drink; “hold” means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature.
Though prices for the elite bottlings have

94 WINE SPECTATOR • JAN. 31 - FEB. 29, 2020