Page 20 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)
P. 20

T H E   Y E A R   I N   W I N E






                   Quality Climb: 2019 in Perspective






                   BY MITCH FRANK                                                                                                Washington  (53%)  earned  90  points  or
                                                               HOW MUCH DOES 90 COST?                                            higher, with an average price of $54, un-
                                 hat do the best wines                                                                           changed from 2018. In Oregon, 57% of the
                                                             $120                            The average price for a wine
                                 in  the  world  offer?                                      to which Wine Spectator             598 wines reviewed earned 90 points or
                                 Quality, value, com-                                        awarded 90 points or higher         higher, at an average price of $55.
                   Wplexity,  singularity                      100                           in 2019, in leading regions.           The average scores of French wines were
                   and, most of all, diversity. Ameri-                                                                           down slightly from 2018, but an impressive

                   can consumers drank more than                80                                                               55% still scored 90 points or higher, at an
                   330 million cases of wine last year,                                                                          average price of $109 per bottle. But the re-
                   and though growth in consump-                                                                                 sults vary dramatically by region. In Bor-
                   tion has slowed, people are trying           60                                                               deaux, the 2016 vintage shone on the Left
                   an increasing variety of wines and                                                                            Bank, producing our Wine of the Year, the

                   spending more per bottle, looking            40                                                               Château Léoville Barton St.-Julien 2016.
                   for discoveries that will offer some-                                                                         Roughly 35% of all Bordeaux earned out-
                   thing special.                                                                                                standing  scores,  and  6%  earned  classic
                                                                20
                     But in this incredibly heteroge-                                                                            scores. The average price for a 90-plus-point

                   neous wine world, how does one                                                                                bottle rose from $105 in 2018 to $116.
                   go about finding the standouts?                                                                                  Burgundy notched a strong year, with 72%
                   Wine Spectator is here to help. Our                FRANCE   CALIFORNIA    ITALY   WASHINGTON     NEW          of wines earning 90 points or higher. After
                   editors reviewed more than 15,000                                                              ZEALAND        a dip in 2018, prices for 90-plus-point wines
                   new releases in independent blind                                                                             jumped  again,  to  $163  per  bottle.  The

                   tastings in 2019, as well as hun-            The Year’s Highlights                                            Rhône Valley delivered quality yet again
                   dreds more wines as barrel sam-              •  Wine Spectator editors reviewed 15,111 newly released wines in   with  the  successful  2016  vintage;  56%
                   plings and in retrospective flights            2019; 7,415 earned scores of 90 points or higher.              earned outstanding scores and 11% earned
                   of older vintages.                                                                                            classic scores.
                                                                •  The average price of a wine earning 90-plus points was $84, up
                     Due to a spate of strong vintages                                                                              Italy also performed well. Our tasters re-
                                                                  from $78 in 2018, as the U.S. market continues to focus on
                   in multiple regions, quality contin-                                                                          viewed nearly 2,500 wines, and 49% earned
                                                                  “premiumization.”
                   ues  to  tick  upward.  Of  the  new                                                                          scores of 90 points or higher. Piedmont was
                   releases we reviewed in 2019, ap-            •  But the price of a 90-plus-point wine varies dramatically across   a leader; 61% of its wines earned outstand-
                   proximately 46% earned outstand-               categories. California Cabernet Sauvignon averaged $161 a bottle,   ing or classic ratings, at an average price of
                   ing scores of  90 to 94 points. That’s         while California Pinot Noir was $63.                           $91 per bottle. Southern Italy continues to

                   an increase from 2018, when 43%              •  A 90-plus-point wine from France’s Loire Valley averaged $38    produce better wine each year, often at value
                   earned  outstanding  scores.  An-              a bottle, and a New Zealand wine averaged $37.                 price points: Nearly 35% of the 407 wines
                   other 3% of new releases earned                                                                               from the area earned 90 points or higher, at
                   classic scores of 95 points or higher,                                                                        an average of $50 a bottle.

                   matching 2018. About 44% earned very good scores of 85 to 89 points;               Though benchmark regions and producers held steady in 2019, out-
                   these wines often offer excellent value. (For complete breakdowns by  standing quality and value can be found around the world. Germany
                   category, see the accompanying charts.)                                         maintains its reputation for overdelivering, with 58% of the 619 wines
                     The wine market has been focused on premiumization; many con-                 reviewed earning 90 points or higher, at an average price of $57. We
                   sumers may not be buying more, but they’re paying more, focusing on  tasted more than 400 Portuguese wines, and 44% earned classic or out-

                   drinking top-tier wines. Wineries have noticed and are offering higher  standing scores, at an average price of $98. New Zealand was our top
                   quality, with increased prices to match. The average price for a wine  value region again, with 26% of its wines earning 90-plus points, at an
                   earning 90-plus points in 2019 was $84, up 8% from $78 in 2017. But  average price of $37, lower than in 2018.
                   that price-to-quality ratio varied significantly by region and producer.           These figures are averages. If you flip through any issue from 2019,

                     California enjoyed a banner year in 2019 overall, with 54% of all re-         you can find top-quality bottlings at impressive prices from nearly every
                   viewed wines earning 90 points or higher, up from 42% in 2018. Almost  corner of the wine world. The challenge is to hunt down the styles that
                   every major category did well, including Cabernet Sauvignon (with  entice you. That search can be the most rewarding part of loving wine.
                   71% earning outstanding or classic scores), Syrah (also 71%) and Pinot             How does Wine Spectator seek out quality? Wines are reviewed in our
                   Noir (57%). Consumers could find value too: Though the average price  New York and Napa offices or on location in winegrowing regions. The

                   of a 90-plus-point Cabernet was a steep $161 per bottle, that’s down  wines are tasted blind. Editors do not officially review wines at trade
                   from $172 in 2018. Producers weren’t dropping prices, but the quality  events, at wineries or in other situations that might influence impres-
                   of lower-priced options was up.                                                 sions of the wines.
                     Elsewhere in the U.S., more than half of the 571 wines reviewed from             Due to space limitations, not every review appears in the magazine.

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                   18    WINE  SPECTATOR  •  JAN.  31  –  FEB.  29,  2020
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