Page 278 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Paris

276  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA

A 90-Minute Walk in Butte-aux-Cailles

This walk takes place in and around the Butte-aux-Cailles, a unremarkable yet was the site of
lovely “village” set on a hill that is all quiet streets, leafy squares a major street battle in May 1871.
and buzzy local bistros. The area made history in 1783 when Continue up the Rue de la Butte-
the first manned balloon flight touched down here. In the aux-Cailles. Les Abeilles at No. 21
e is a curious store dedicated to
1800s, it was home to many workers from the small factories in bee-keeping and a delight for
the area and was one of the first areas to fight during the Paris honey lovers. Pancakes in the
Commune. However, it only really developed after 1910 and old-fashioned crêperie Des
the architecture reflects the social ideals of the day – that Crêpes et des Cailles at No. 13
individual houses and green spaces aid health. may satisfy if you are just
peckish, but further down at
No. 18 is the area’s best-known
restaurant, Le Temps de Cerises
r. Fittingly, as it’s only a few
minutes’ walk from the Place
de la Commune, it’s run
as a co-operative and is PLACE
also the unofficial D ’ I T AL IE
neighbourhood HQ. Place 1
d’Italie
Corvisart A U G U S T E B L A N Q U I 3 2
RUE PERE GUERIN
R PAULIN MERY

B O U L E V A R D
Quiet, cobbled streets typify the Butte-aux-Cailles q 5 CINQ DIAMANTS RUE GERARD 4 MOULIN DES PRES RUE DU RUE BOBILLOT
Buttes-aux-Cailles books and pamphlets on R U E B A R R A UL T P A SSA GE B ARR AU LT RUE DES A V E N U E D ' I T A L I E A V E N U E D E C H O I S Y
Take the “Auguste Blanqui” exit that bloody episode in 6 RUE SAMSON RUE SIMONET
out of the Place d’Italie Metro Parisian history. Turn R U E AL PH A N D 8 7
t
station 1, noting the Guimard right into the Passage 9 DAVIEL R U E D E L A B U T TE A U X CA I L L E S R UE V A NDREZA N NE RUE DES
RUE
decoration. Follow the bustling Barrault, a cobbled VILLA DAVIEL PA r u PL. PAUL DEUX AVENUES
Rue Bobillot until you reach the alleyway with ivy- q w RUE DE POUY RUE CHÉREAU y VERLAINE
Rue Paulin-Méry 2 and take covered walls and a e SSAGE BOITON R D i
your first steps into the peace of countryside feel 8. At 0 RU E MICH A L RUE BUOT R U E DU M O U LINET RUE TOUSSAINT FERON
the Butte-aux-Cailles. The the end of the passage, RUE DE L’ESPÉRANCE R U E B O B I L L O T RUE DU
contrast is surprising as you walk turn left onto the Rue R U E M A R T I N B E R N A Tolbiac
the quiet, narrow, cobbled Barrault and continue R U E D E T O L B I A C d
streets with their old-fashioned up the street until the R U E D E T O L B I A C
street lamps. Note the painted right turn into the Rue
shutters on No. 5 3 and the Daviel. At 10 Rue Daviel, the row o
SQ. DES
trees in the small garden in front of cottages known as “Little PEUPLIERS MOULIN DES PRES RUE E ET A V E
of the house opposite. Alsace” 9 because of their H ROUSSELLE
Continue straight ahead, chalet style is, in fact, one of
cross over the Rue du the first public p PAPE R U E D A M E S M E
Moulin-des-Prés and housing schemes in RUE DES PEUPLIERS RU E H RUE DU DR LAU R ENT N U E D ' I T A L I E
turn left into the Rue Paris. The public can a RUE DU MOULIN DE LA POINTE
Gérard past the red- visit their intimate R DIEULAFOY
brick terraces and courtyards during the s
plant-decked villas day. Opposite, walk R U E D R L E R A Y
4. Keep on into the Road sign in the Butte- aux- down the Villa Daviel R UE B O U R G O N
Rue Samson and Cailles area 0, a tiny street of
then turn right onto terraces with small
the Rue Jonas and left onto the front gardens overflowing with
Rue des Cinq Diamants 5. At greenery. Retrace your steps back
No. 43 6 there is a hip Franco- up to the Rue Barrault, turn left
Thai restaurant, Le 43. Those and then right onto the artery of
interested in history may the area, the Rue de la Butte-aux-
appreciate the Association des Cailles q. Head up the street to
Amis de la Commune de Paris at the Place de la Commune de
No. 46 7, which sells T-shirts, Paris w, which today looks Les Abeilles, for honey enthusiasts e

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