Page 312 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Paris
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310      TR A VELLERS '  NEEDS


       a glamorous venue serving   the Marais, well known for its   Marais. The owner of Ten Belles,
       creative cocktails to a cool   exhaustive choice of tea; you   which was one of the first, went
       young crowd. Also popular    can also buy loose-leaf tea    on to open the Belleville
       is the stylish Experimental   from an impressive array of   Brulerie, now the city’s top
       Cocktail Club, which lives up    caddies lining the walls, plus   local roaster. The Caféothèque
       to its name with cocktails such   lovely teapots to take home.   is another major roaster in the
       as Blind Date at Chelsea (sloe   Also very classy is Ladurée,    Marais and has plenty of space
       gin, cognac, maraschino and   near Place de la Madeleine,   for laptop-wielding workers
       strawberries). Le China, an    where you can sip tea and   looking to get away from their
       Asian bar/restaurant with chic   nibble the house specialities,   home offices. HolyBelly and
       Neo-Colonial decor and a   macaroons, amid the splendour   Craft Café are popular with the
       romantic ambience, also does   of gilt-edged mirrors and   fashionable crowd and offer
       great cocktails.    ceiling frescoes. Ladurée has   some delicious lunch options
         Oberkampf, in the east, is    equally grand outlets on the   too. KB in Pigalle and Coutume
       one of the best areas to go    Champs-Elysées and in   on the Left Bank have also
       for some late-night bar action;   St-Germain. Perhaps the    helped spread the coffee craze
       well established on the scene   city’s most sumptuous tea   further afield.
       are Café Charbon and Le Kitch.    room, though, is the lavishly
       Bespoke is a speakeasy-style   decorated café in the Musée   Street Food
       bar specializing in creative   Jacquemart-André (see also
       cocktails – try, for example,    p211), where you can enjoy    Street food has really taken
       the Capri C’est Fini (tomato,   tea and fine pastries while   off in Paris, and there’s a large
       basil and balsamic vinegar).    admiring the wall tapestries   variety of offerings. Alongside
       The Canal St-Martin area also   and Tiepolo’s ceiling fresco.   the more traditional crêpes and
       has some great venues for     More relaxed options include   ham-and-cheese baguettes,
       canalside drinking, such as    Le Loir dans la Théière in the   you’ll also find New York deli-
       the energetic Point Ephémère,   Marais, where you can sit back   style sandwiches, bagels,
       which also programmes live   in a comfy sofa and feast on    burgers, tacos and empañadas.
       music and DJ nights. A number   the heavenly lemon meringue   Frenchie To Go attracts queues
       of bars bring in DJs on the   pie. Good for both afternoon   at lunchtime for its tasty
       weekends; the best are listed   tea and Sunday brunch is the   pastrami sandwiches and other
       on p345.            charming L’Heure Gourmande,   deli-style fillings. Chezaline
         Bars that are great for a   hidden away down a passage in   serves gourmet baguettes in a
       relaxing drink include the tiny,   St-Germain; on sunny days    converted horse butcher’s, and
       stone-clad Stolly’s in the Marais   you can relax on the tranquil   Big Fernand styles itself as an
       and the legendary Harry’s New   terrace, away from the crowds,   atelier du hamburger, using
       York Bar, which has been   and enjoy hot chocolate and   carefully sourced ingredients to
       serving cocktails since 1911 and   home-made cakes. Another   produce burgers with a French
       claims to have invented the   haven from the city bustle is   twist. At lunchtime, La Pointe
       Bloody Mary.        the lovely, mosaic-tiled Café    du Groin, a café/wine bar near
                           de la Mosquée, where you    the Gare du Nord, does
       Tearooms            can get sticky pastries and   excellent takeaway Breton-style
                           aromatic mint tea. Nearby,    rolls and baguettes with fillings
       Tea rooms are well-established   and perfect after a visit to   such as goat’s cheese, pickled
       Paris institutions. They usually   Notre-Dame, is La Fourmi    peppers and rosemary honey.
       serve a tempting array of   Ailée, a cosy place with books   For Middle Eastern street food,
       exquisite cakes, elegant pastries   on the shelves and a fire   head to Rue des Rosiers, in the
       and a wide choice of tea.   burning away in the colder   Marais, where you’ll find the
       Typical opening hours are   months.     renowned L’As du Falafel
       11.30am– 7pm. Some salons de     Chocolate-lovers should head   (see p296), among many other
       thé also offer light lunches, as   to Chocolaterie Jacques Genin,    falafel joints. Montparnasse has
       well as breakfast and afternoon   which combines a shop and a   the best crêpe stands: the
       tea; many open on Sunday    salon de thé; enjoy a pot of   undisputed favourite is
       for brunch.         decadent chocolat chaud or   Crêperie Josselin.
         A long-time favourite,    buy a bag of the delicious     Ice-cream stands open
       dating from around 1903 and   caramels to take away.  around noon and stay open
       sporting a fabulous Belle               late in the summer. It’s worth
       Epoque interior, is Angélina,   Coffee Shops  queuing (sometimes around
       renowned for its thick hot              the block) for the city’s best
       chocolate and the Mont Blanc,   A new wave of boutique coffee   ice cream at Maison Berthillon;
       a rich chestnut, cream and   shops and roasters has popped   seasoned gourmets come from
       meringue confection. Mariage   up in recent years. The best   across the city to sample a
       Frères, in business since 1854,    ones are located around the   scoop or two of their delicious
       is an elegant salon de thé in    Canal Saint Martin and the   concoctions.




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