Page 9 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Paris

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

Paris at a Glance 48  INTRODUCING P ARIS P ARIS A T A GLANCE  49
Sacré-Coeur
Each map in this section Paris’s Best: Places of Worship Above the altar in this massive basilica, the
chancel vault is decorated with a vast
The Catholic Church has long been the bastion of Parisian
society and many of the city’s fine churches are worth mosaic of Christ by Luc-Olivier Merson.
concentrates on a specific visiting. Architectural styles vary and the interiors are
often spec tacular. Most churches are open during
the day and many have services at regular intervals.
theme: Museums and Galleries, Paris’s tradition of church music is still evident. You Montmartre
can spend an evening enjoying the interiors while
listening to an organ recital or classical concert (see
Places of Worship, Gardens, p338). A more detailed overview of Paris’s places of La Madeleine St-Eustache
worship is on pages 50–51.
Parks and Squares. The top Built in the style of a Greco- With its mixture of Gothic
Roman temple, this church is
and Renaissance styles,
known for its fine sculptures.
this is one of the finest
churches in Paris.
sights are shown on the map; 0 kilometres 0.5 1 St-Paul–St-Louis
0 miles
other sights are described on Chaillot Quarter Champs-Elysées Tuileries Quarter This Christ figure is
one of the many
Opéra
rich furnishings in
this Jesuit church,
built in 1641 for
the following two pages. R i v e r S e i n e Quarter Beaubourg Cardinal Richelieu.
and
Les Halles
Invalides and Eiffel The Marais
Tower Quarter St-Germain-
des-Prés Ile de la Cité
Each sightseeing area is Dôme Church Ile St-Louis
This memorial to the military Notre-Dame
Latin
colour-coded. engineer Vauban lies in the Quarter the Revolution, until Victor Hugo led a
The great cathedral was left to rot after
Dôme Church, where Napoleon’s
remains were buried in 1840. Luxembourg restoration campaign.
Quarter
Jardin des Plantes
Quarter
Sainte-Chapelle Montparnasse
With its fine stained
glass, this chapel is a Grande Mosquée
medieval jewel. de Paris
The minaret of this
1920s mosque is nearly
Panthéon 33 m (100 ft) tall. St-Séverin
The Neo-Classical Sainte-Geneviève, The west door leads into
now the Panthéon, was inspired by one of the finest medieval
Wren’s St Paul’s Cathedral in London. churches in the city.
180  P ARIS AREA B Y AREA MONTP ARNASSE  181
1 La Coupole 5 Tour Louis Pasteur in 1888–9. He 0 Fondation Cartier w Observatoire
102 Blvd du Montparnasse 75014. Montparnasse discovered the process of 261 Blvd Raspail 75014. Map 16 E3. de Paris Practical Information
milk pasteurization, as well as
Map 16 D2. Tel 01 43 20 14 20. 33 Ave du Maine 75014. Map 15 C2. Tel 01 42 18 56 50. q Raspail. Open
q Vavin, Montparnasse. Open q Montparnasse-Bienvenüe. vaccines against rabies and 11am–8pm Tue–Sun (to 10pm Tue). 77 Ave Denfert-Rochereau 75014.
8am–11pm daily (to midnight Sat & Tel 01 45 38 52 56. Open Apr–Sep: anthrax. The centre houses Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 ^ 8 Map 16 E3. Tel 01 40 51 22 21 (2–4pm
Sun). See Where to Eat and Drink p305. 9.30am– 11.30pm daily (last lift 11pm); a museum that includes a ∑ fondation.cartier.com Mon–Fri). q Denfert-Rochereau. lists all the information you
reconstruction of Pasteur’s
Closed to the public for revovations;
Established in 1927, this historic Oct–Mar: 9.30am–10.30pm daily apartment and laboratory. This foundation for contem- call for latest details. & 8 visite.
(to 11pm Fri & Sat). & 0 - 8
café-restaurant and dance hall ∑ tourmontparnasse56.com It was designed by his porary art is housed in a paris@obspm.fr ∑ obspm.fr need to visit every sight,
underwent a face-lift in the grandchildren (also scientists) building designed by architect
1980s. Its red velvet seats and This was Europe’s largest office and is faithful to the original Jean Nouvel. He has created an In 1667 Louis XIV was
famous columns, decorated by block when it was built in 1973 down to the last detail. Pasteur’s air of transparency and light, as persuaded by his scientists
various artists, have survived. as the focal point of a new tomb is in a basement crypt well as incorporating a cedar and astronomers that France including a map reference
Among its clientele have been business sector. At 210 m (690 ft) built in the style of a small of Lebanon planted in 1823 needed a royal obser vatory.
Jean-Paul Sartre, Josephine high, it totally dominates the Byzantine chapel. The tomb of by François-René de Building began on 21 June, the
Baker and Roman Polanski. area’s skyline. The views from Dr Emile Roux, who discovered Chateaubriand. The structure day of summer solstice, and to the Street Finder at the
the 59th floor are spectacular – the treatment for diphtheria, is complements the nature of took five years to complete.
up to 40 km (35 miles) on a in the garden. The institute has the exhibitions of progressive One of the leading astronomy
2 Musée Zadkine clear day. The tower also has Panoramic view of Paris from the laboratories for pure and art, which showcase personal, centres in the world, research back of the book.
Europe’s fastest lift (56 floors in 38 59th floor of Tour Montparnasse applied research, lecture group or thematic displays, undertaken here included the
100 bis Rue d’Assas 75116. Map 16 E1. seconds) and a panoramic bar. theatres, a reference section, often including works by calculation of the exact
Tel 01 55 42 77 20. q Notre-Dame-
des-Champs. Open 10am–6pm Tue– Hall in an extension and include and a hospital established to young unknowns. dimensions of the solar system
Sun. Closed public hols. & 8 by 6 Musée Antoine the group of sculptures for the apply Pasteur’s theories. There in 1672, calculations of the
appt, Tel 01 49 54 75 92. 7 limited. relief decoration of the Théâtre is also a library – the institute’s q Catacombes de dimensions of longitude, the
∑ zadkine.paris.fr Bourdelle des Champs-Elysées. original building from 1888 – mapping of the moon in 1679
18 Rue Antoine Bourdelle 75015. where research into AIDS is Paris and the discovery of the planet Numbers refer to each
The Russian-born sculptor Map 15 B1. Tel 01 49 54 73 73. carried out, led by pioneering 1 Ave du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy Neptune in 1846.
Ossip Zadkine lived here from q Montparnasse-Bienvenüe. 7 Musée de la Professor Luc Montagnier, who 75014. Map 16 E4. Tel 01 43 22 47 63.
1928 until his death in 1967. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Poste discovered the HIV virus in 1983. q Denfert-Rochereau. Open 10am– sight’s position on the
The small house, studio and Closed public hols. & 7 limited. 34 Blvd de Vaugirard 75015. Map 15 5pm Tue–Sun (last adm: 4pm).
garden contain his works. ∑ bourdelle.paris.fr B2. Tel 01 42 79 24 24 or 01 53 71 Closed public hols. & 8
Here he produced his great 98 49. q Montparnasse-Bienvenüe. 9 Notre-Dame ∑ catacombes.paris.fr area map and its place
commemorative sculpture, The prolific sculptor Antoine Closed for renovations until 2017; du Travail
Ville Détruite, commissioned by Bourdelle lived and worked in temporary exhibitions take place at 36 Rue Guilleminot 75014. Map 15 B3. In 1786 a monumental project
Rotterdam after World War II, the studio here from 1884 until various venues in Paris until 2017. Tel 01 44 10 72 92. q Pernety. Open began here: the removal of the
and two monuments to Vincent his death in 1929. The house, & 8 by appt. Library. 7.30am–7.45pm Mon–Fri, 9am–7.30pm millions of skulls and bones in the chapter.
Van Gogh, one for Holland and studio and garden are now a ∑ ladressemusee delaposte.fr Sat, 8.30am–7:30pm Sun. 5 9am, from the unsanitary city
one for Auvers-sur-Oise, where museum devoted to his life and 12.15pm, 7pm Mon–Fri (only at 7pm cemetery in Les Halles to the
Van Gogh died. The museum’s work. Among the 900 sculptures Every conceivable aspect of the on Wed during school hols); 6.30pm quarries at the base of the three
works span the development of on display are the original plaster history of the French postal Sat; 9am (in Portuguese), 10.45am, “mountains”: Montparnasse,
Zadkine’s style, from his Cubist casts of his monumental works service and methods of transport 6pm Sun (in Latin). ∑ notredame Montrouge and Montsouris. The façade of the Observatoire
beginnings to Expressionism planned for wide public squares. is covered in this well laid-out dutravail.net During World War II, the
and Abstractionism. They are housed in the Great collection. There is even a room French Resistance set up its
devoted to mail delivery in times This church dates from 1901 headquarters here. Above the e La Closerie des
3 Rue Campagne- of war – carrier pigeons were and is made of an unusual mix door outside are the words “Stop! Lilas
used during the Franco-Prussian
of materials: stone, rubble and
This is the empire of death.”
Première War with postmarks stamped bricks over a riveted steel and 171 Blvd du Montparnasse 75014.
Map 16 E2. Tel 01 40 51 34 50. q
on their wings. Postage stamp
iron framework. It was the
75014. Map 16 E2. q Raspail. art is displayed in the gallery. creation of Father Soulange- Vavin. W Port Royal. Open Piano bar:
11–1.30am, restaurant: noon–2.30pm
cooperatives and sought to
This street has some interesting Boudin, a priest who organized & 7–10.30pm, brasserie: noon–
12.30am. ∑ closeriedeslilas.fr
Art Deco buildings and a long 8 Institut Pasteur reconcile labour and capitalism.
artistic tradition. Modigliani, 25–28 Rue du Docteur Roux 75015. Local parishioners raised the Lenin, Trotsky, Hemingway and
ravaged by opium and Map 15 A2. Tel 01 45 68 80 00. q money for its construction, but Scott Fitzgerald all frequented
tuberculosis, lived at No. 3 during Pasteur. Open 2–5.30pm Mon–Fri. lack of funds meant that many the Montparnasse bars, but the
his last years. Between the wars Closed Aug, public hols. & 8 features, such as the bell towers, Closerie was their favourite.
many artists resided here, such as compulsory (2, 3 & 4pm); ID required. were never built. On the façade Much of Hemingway’s novel
Picasso, Joan Miró and Kandinsky. Tours of 10+ people: apply 3 months hangs the Sebastopol Bell, a The Sun Also Rises takes place
in advance (01 45 68 82 83 or musee@ trophy from the Crimean War here– he wrote it on the terrace
4 Cimetière du pasteur.fr). ^ = ∑ pasteur.fr given to the people of the in just six weeks. Today the
terrace is ringed with trees and
Plaisance district by Napoleon III.
Montparnasse Sculptures in the Great Hall of the The Institut Pasteur, France’s The Art Nouveau interior has Skulls and bones stored in the Catacombes the area is more elegant than in
the 1920s, but much of the
been completely restored and
leading medical research centre,
See pp182–3. Musée Antoine Bourdelle was founded by the scientist features paintings of saints. de Paris original decor remains.
Detailed Information on each Sight The Visitors’ Checklist
3All important sights in each area are described provides the practical information
in depth in this section. They are listed in order, you will need to plan your visit.
following the numbering on the Area
Map. Practical information on opening 226  P ARIS AR e A B y AR e A mon T m AR TR e  227
hours, telephone numbers, websites, 1 Sacré-Coeur The Siege of Paris ViSiTOrS’ ChECKliST
At the outbreak of the Franco-Prussian War in 1870, two Prussia invaded France in 1870. Practical Information
During the four-month siege of
admission charges and facilities Catholic businessmen made a private religious vow to Paris, instigated by the Prusso- 33 Rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre
build a church dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Christ,
75018. Map 6 F1. Tel 01 53
German statesman Otto von
41 89 00. Basilica: Open 6am–
should France be spared the impending Prussian
10.30pm daily. Dome and crypt:
Bismarck, hungry Parisians were
available is given for each sight. onslaught. The two men, Alexandre Legentil and Hubert forced to eat the city’s horses Open 9am–6pm daily. Crypt:
and other animals.
Rohault de Fleury, lived to see Paris saved from
Closed Oct–Apr: Tue.
& for crypt and dome.
invasion despite the war and a lengthy siege – and
5 7am, 11.15am, 6.30pm,
The key to the symbols used can the start of work on the Sacré-Coeur basilica. The 10pm Mon–Fri (processional at
project was taken up by Archbishop Guibert of
3pm Fri); 7am, 11.15am, 10pm
Sat; 7am, 11am, 6pm, 10pm Sun.
Paris. Work began in 1875 to Paul Abadie’s
designs. They were inspired by the Romano- ^ 7 restricted. = ∑ sacre-
coeur-montmartre.com
be found on the back flap. Byzantine church of St-Front in Périgueux. The Principal Façade . Ovoid Dome Transport
The basilica was completed in 1914, but its
The best view of the domed
and turreted Sacré-Coeur is
q Abbesses (then take
consecration was forestalled by World War I
until 1919, when France was victorious. from the gardens below. This is the second-highest point the funiculaire to the steps
of the Sacré-Coeur), Anvers,
in Paris, after the Eiffel Tower.
Barbès-Rochechouart, Lamarck-
Caulaincourt. @ 30, 31, 54, 80, 85.
h Blvd de Clichy, Rue Custine.
The façade of each major sight is
shown to help you spot it quickly. . Great Mosaic of Christ
The colossal mosaic
The basilica’s most important
(1912–22) dominating the Statue of Christ
chancel vault was designed statue is symbolically placed
by Luc Olivier Merson and above the two bronze saints.
Marcel Magne.
Virgin Mary
and Child (1896) Equestrian Statues
This Renaissance-style The statue of Joan of Arc is one of
silver statue is one of a pair by H Lefèbvre. The other is
two in the ambulatory of Saint Louis.
by P Brunet.
KEY
1 The bell tower (1895) is 83 m
Stars indicate the most interesting (252 ft) high and contains one of the
heaviest bells in the world. The bell
itself weighs 18.5 tonnes and the
architectural details of the building, clapper 850 kg (1,900 lb).
2 Spiral staircase
3 The inner structure supporting
and the most important works of the dome is made from stone. . Crypt Vaults . Bronze Doors
4 The stained-glass gallery
affords a view of the whole of
Relief sculptures on the doors in
art or exhibits on view inside. the interior. A chapel in the basilica’s Main entrance the portico entrance illustrate
crypt contains Legentil’s
scenes from the life of Christ,
heart in a stone urn.
such as the Last Supper.
Paris’s Major Sights
4These are given two or more full pages in the sightseeing
Numbered circles point out key area in which they are found. Historic buildings are dissected
features of the sight listed in a key. to reveal their interiors; and museums and galleries have
colour-coded floorplans to help you find important exhibits.
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