Page 218 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

216  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  217

In the visitors’ centre, the teeth note that all contain at least 6 Parád and
of 24 species of sharks, croc- one relatively difficult section. Parádfürdő
odiles and dolphins, fossilized Mátrafüred is also great for
trees, the imprints of more than mountain biking, and many 30 km (19 miles) north of Gyöngyös.
5,000 subtropical exotic leaves pensions hire out good­quality Road Map E3. * 2,400. £ from
and the foot prints of 2,000 bikes. Non­hikers can pass the Budapest. @ from Budapest.
animals can be admired. A time at the Palóc Ethno graph­
4D cinema and adventure ical Museum (Palóc Néprajzi The waters at Parádfürdő
park make the visit even more Magángyűjtemény és Baba­ have been taken as a cure for
enjoyable for families. kiállítás), where a large and digestive disorders and bathed
colourful collection of dolls in as a cure for gynae cological
Y Ipolytarnóc Fossils Nature shows the traditional costumes ailments since the 17th century.
Protected Area of the Palóc people. The real treasure of the twin
Ipolytarnóc külterület. Tel (32) 45 41 About 8 km (5 miles) further villages, however, is the so
13. Open Mar–Oct: 9am–4pm Tue– Interior of St Bertalan Parish Church into the mountains is the smaller called Fancy Stable (Cifra Istálló).
Sun.& 8 in Gyöngyös resort of Mátra háza, with more Commissioned by Count György
hiking trails, and Károlyi it was designed
3 Hollókő the former Orczy Mansion, close slightly further north is by Miklós Ybl (who
The Palóc Museum in Balassagyarmat, keeping up folk traditions to the narrow­gauge railway Mátraszentistván, also designed the
See pp218–19. station. The late 18th­ century Hungary’s leading ski State Opera House in
1 Balassagyarmat 2 Ipolytarnóc mansion is a mixture of Neo­ resort and also a base Buda pest (see pp93-3).
Baroque and Neo­Classical styles. for summer hiking. Completed in 1880,
80 km (50 miles) north of Budapest. 43 km (27 miles) northeast of 4 Gyöngyös
Road Map D2. * 18,000. Balas sa gyarmat. Road Map D2. Heves county is known for its Kékestető, at much of the stable’s
£ from Vác. @ from Budapest. * 550. £ from Szécsény, 77 km (48 miles) east of Budapest. sports, and the Mátra Museum’s 1,015 m (3,330 ft) elaborate decoration
n Tourinform, Köztársaság tér 6, Balassagyarmat. @ from Szécsény. Road Map D3. * 33,000. £ from best exhibition is devoted to the highest peak in is of red marble. Few
(35) 50 06 40. Vámosgyörk. @ from Budapest, Eger. hunting, complete with various Hungary, lies east horses have finer
Around 22 million years ago, n Fő tér 10, (37) 51 03 10. ( daily trophies. In the beautiful park of Mátraháza. It is homes, and the
Capital of the Palóc region, a volcanic eruption buried the (until noon), Köztársaság tér. around the mansion, there is a served by bus or Footpath marker in the famous Lipizzaner
Balassagyarmat stands on the area around what is today three­storey pavilion with takes 45 minutes to Mátra Mountains horses are still bred
southern bank of the Ipoly the village of Ipolytarnóc in hot At the foot of the Mátra hills, exhibitions on natural history. hike up. The moun tain here. The rest of the
river, which marks the border ash. Hundreds of animals were Gyöngyös is the home of some The pride of the collection is is topped by a 90­m­ (295­ft­) building is the Parád Coach
between Hungary and Slovakia. caught at their drinking place of Hungary’s best white wines. a 40,000–50,000­year­old high TV tower, which offers Museum (Parádi Kocsi­
The origin of the Palóc people, and their fossilized remains Visitors can sample many of mammoth skeleton found spectacular views from the múzeum), which has a wide
famous for retaining their own can be seen today as part of a these at the Mátra House nearby. The Palm House is also viewing platform at the top. selection of elaborate horse­
cultural traditions, remains Geological Study Path that is of Wines, a shop and cellar that home to living animals, reptiles, For more relaxing pursuits, drawn coaches, some of
something of a mystery. The unique in Europe. It departs stocks over 200 local vintages. fishes and birds. there is good fishing at the which were once used by
nearby village of Hollókő from the visitors’ centre of the It is located on Fő tér, Gyöngyös’s picturesque Lake Sástó, which, the Hungarian royal family.
(see pp218–19) is the best- Ipolytarnóc Fossils Nature elegant pedestrianized central E St Bertalan Treasury Museum at an altitude of 500 m (1,640 ft), There are also interesting
known and best-kept Palóc Protected Area (Ipolytarnóci square. The centrepiece of Szent Bertalan utca 3. Tel (37) 30 00 is one of the highest in Hungary. dis plays on carriage building,
settle ment in Hungary. Ősmarad ványok Természet- the square, however, is the yellow 72. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat; Sun by It is found between Mátra füred tradi tional Palóc music, dance,
The townsfolk of Balassa- védelmi Terület) on the village’s Baroque St Bertalan Parish appointment only. & and Mátraháza. folk costumes and tools.
gyarmat no longer wear Palóc out skirts. Before setting off, Church, originally built in 1301, E Mátra Museum and
costume, but many examples of watch the short film telling then remodelled in the 18th Microarium E Palóc Ethnographical Museum E Parád Coach Museum
their colourful, elaborate dress the story of the eruption and century. The high-ceilinged – Kossuth Lajos utca 40. Tel (37) 50 55 Pálosvörösmarti utca 2, Mátrafüred. Kossuth Lajos utca 217. Tel (36) 36 40
are on display at the city’s Palóc explaining the natural history but plain – main hall is the 30. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 7 Tel (30) 913 49 87. Open May–Oct: 83. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm daily;
Museum (Palóc Múzeum). Here, of the area. A guide is needed largest surviving Gothic church 9am–5pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–3pm Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
visitors can also admire the rich for the Geological Study Tour, but building in Hungary. Opposite daily. & 8 Hungarian only. 7 8 7
artistic skills of the Palóc in the the Biology and Rock Park Tours the church is the House of the 5 Mátra Mountains
handi crafts on show. There are can be taken unaccompanied. Holy Crown, so called because 85 km (52 miles) northeast of
superb embroideries, intricate the Hungarian royal Budapest. Road Map D3/E3. £ from
woodcarvings and colourful crown was brought Mátrafüred. @ from Mátrafüred.
ceramics as well as a mock-up here for safe keeping n Tour inform Gyöngyös, Fő tér 10,
of a classroom and a wedding. early in the 19th (37) 51 03 10.
Unfortunately, there is less on century. Today,
display than there once was, the St Bertalan The most spectacular way
because as much as 90 per cent Treasury Museum to traverse the steep Mátra
of the collection was looted (Szent Bertalan Mountains is by narrow­gauge
by the German army during Templom Kincstára) railway from Gyöngyös to
World War II. accommodates a Mátrafüred, the largest village
large treasury of in the region. In summer,
E Palóc Museum ecclesiastical art. Mátra füred is pure heaven for
Palóc liget 1. Tel (35) 30 01 68. Gyöngyös’s other lovers of challenging moun tain
Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sat. star sight is the Mátra hikes. There are trails of various
8 7 Fossilized rhino footprints in Ipolytarnóc Museum, housed in lengths, all well marked, but A typical thatched Palóc cottage in the village of Parád
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

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